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Window Motor Replacement


89reattaLNTHREE

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I did a quick read and they are pretty complete.

One thing missing is to start with the window UP if possible. Then the window needs to be held up by a helper or othe means...I have a clamp with plastic ends that will not scratch or damage the glass.

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Thanks Barney.

Paragraph #1: Start by fixing the window in place so it won’t fall when the regulator is removed. I used a strip of duct tape on the outside at the bottom of the window. Worked fine.

I changed paragraph #1 as follows" Start by fixing the window in the UP position if possible so it won’t fall when the regulator is removed. I used a strip of duct tape on the outside at the bottom of the window. Worked fine.

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Duct tape can leave a nasty residue. I use a vicegrip over a foot-square shop rag folded many times at the top of the fixed window frame. Have to be very careful not to squeeze too hard or too light.

I also slide a wedge under the rear of the window. When having to put hands under a heavy and sharp object, you want belt and suspenders.

Am about to have to pull the passenger door apart, window goes up waaay too slow. Suspect channels need some cleaning/regreasing.

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I think it should be mentioned here that this is probably one of the most difficult jobs there is to do on a Reatta for the average owner. I always recommend to my own customers to always have a shop do this job, as it never fails to produce bloody hands and arms.

it is certainly not a job for the uninitiated, and most shops charge $150-$200 to do it for you, including a new motor. money very well spent.

be sure to use a NEW quality motor, not a used one. don't use a poor quality new one from a place like AutoZone; NAPA or Delco units make much better choices. this is not a repair you want to do a second time.

Mike

buickreattaparts.com

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Think the real answer here is "If you have to ask, have a shop do it".

Heck, replacing an inverter from the bottom can leave your arms looking like they were in a cat fight. If a window is not properly secured, it can do some serious damage (if I have to leave a window without the motor/regulator for a while, I put a piece of 2x4 inside as a "jackstand"

I do agree that a shop *may* do a better job but I have also seen motors fastened with the #8 screws that come in the kit (I always use 1/4-20s) that came loose and regulators with missing springs (now that can do serious damage if not secured properly). It had better be a shop you can trust.

OTOH there are very few people I trust to work on my cars so usually do it myself. Agree you want a quality motor but have had good luck with Siemens. They do not seem to have the internal circuit breaker that goes bad in the OEM unit.

As to the first question, I usually have a tub of high temp axle grease around. Just do not grease the felt.

ps thanks Barney - think next time I will use a plastic woodworker's clamp, HF just had some on sale - will still use the wedge also though.

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