msmazcol Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 Been awhile since a update so I figured it was due. The front axle has new king pins installed and was sandblasted, had all pits filled and a fresh coat of epoxy primer sprayed on. The chassis which had excessive amounts of surface pitting due to the weather exposure for many years now is starting to look good again. After about a full week of body work on top of the first coat of epoxy the major pits were filled. Now a coat of high build primer has been applied and the frame will once again be sanded smooth. A second coat of epoxy will seal the high build. After the epoxy is done we will bolt all of the spring mount brackets back in place. After they are bolted in place one bolt at a time gets removed and a correct heat peened rivet will be installed. The heating of the rivets will damage the epoxy slightly but we have no choice. The spring brackets all were heavily rusted between the bracket and the frame. The sandblasting and good coat of epoxy will stop this from ever happening again. After all the rivets are installed we will scuff the frame again and re-coat the epoxy one more time. After that is done a coat of Eastwoods ceramic satin black chassis paint will be sprayed on. After painting a test panel with the product we have decided the results look good.While the progress is slow it still is forward. That is all that is needed to get it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broadstreet3 Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 I have a nice Robt. Bosch generator with cutout for your truck if you are interested. Rand Broadstreet Phone 440-786-8141 Email broadstreetltd@msn.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the reply on the generator. My C 400 was equipped with a Delco unit. The generator has a through shaft driving the water pump on the rear of the block. Would this Bosch unit be a replacement? The Delco is rebuilt with extensive work going into it because it was a freak.Could you supply me with a photo?Delco 968K Edited August 23, 2010 by msmazcol (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted August 25, 2010 Author Share Posted August 25, 2010 (edited) Dropped off the four leaf spring assembles at the sandblaster today. Knocked them all down first and checked for any broken leafs. Purchased two new mains for the fronts as they were worn through the bushings. We'll get all of the loose leafs blasted then apply several good coats of black epoxy primer. The units will then be bolted back together with new center bolts, etc.After they are back as a unit we'll scuff the outsides again and re-epoxy, plus apply Eastwood's ceramic chassis paint. The finished spring will hopefully never have rust leaking out of them as long as I may live! Edited August 25, 2010 by msmazcol photo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Xprefix28truck Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 You could have the exhaust manifold spray welded.... Works great to build up pits. Finishes out nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted August 27, 2010 Author Share Posted August 27, 2010 Thanks for the tip on the spray weld. It was one of the ideas we have thought of. The manifold is currently in the hands of a outstanding tractor restoration expert. He commonly saves parts that simply cannot be duplicated. We have faith in him to supply a good finished product. Our only fear of the spray weld is the need to apply heat. With enough abuse I'm worried this old die cast will simply self destruct. So far another manifold is yet to surface.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted August 29, 2010 Author Share Posted August 29, 2010 New photos after next coat of epoxy primer.Heavy pitting repair complete.Spring hangers can now be re-riveted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted September 21, 2010 Author Share Posted September 21, 2010 Spring hanger mounts bolted in place, crossmember also. New front motor mounts installed. Rear mounts also in place. Need an extra set of hands in the shop and one bolt at a time will be removed installing a rivet in it's place on the hangers.Engine mounts were bolted originally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40phil41 Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 New photos after next coat of epoxy primer.Heavy pitting repair complete.Spring hangers can now be re-riveted.Out of curiosity how did you repair the heavy pitting? I am working on a 1964 Tempest and it's frame also has heavy pitting. So far I have descaled it (pneumatic descaler) and sprayed it with rustoleum primer and then rustoleum semi-gloss black.Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 This is how we went about it. I'm sure others will have a different view.We started with an aggressive sand blasting using a pro that does it for a living. Immediately after the sandblasting a coat of two part epoxy primer was sprayed on. This seals and also creates a excellent base to build on. The epoxy dried to a full cure due to timing so we lightly sanded the primer and actually had to apply body filler to the really deep pits. The filler was sanded. When the majority of the pits were filled a coat of a high build primer was sprayed on. It goes on almost clumpy. When that was dry it was all sanded including inside the frame rails. When most of the high build only remains in the pits another coat of epoxy was applied. Now the spring brackets were bolted on. They will be riveted which will most likely cause some damage to the primer. After that is complete we will re-sand one more time, spray one more coat of epoxy as a bonding agent and immediately apply Eastwood chassis ceramic paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted September 27, 2010 Author Share Posted September 27, 2010 (edited) Backing plates re-riveted to the re-built axle.The gray cast to the primer is because the plates were pre scuffed for paint before installing them. Edited September 29, 2010 by msmazcol (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 Manifold before and after some TLC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 WOW!! That manifold went from a bad case of the measles to a thing of beauty. How'd you do that?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 Well' I wish I could take credit but the one thing I have tried to do is not be afraid to bring in smarter people, (most), than me for help. After having little luck finding a replacement I was put in a position of what the heck. One of the many contacts we have built over the years is a tractor museum/ private collector in the area. He employs several remarkable people. Bill the main man in the shop is known for bringing back items from the dead. The rare level requires saving of parts that just HAVE to be saved. I approached him with this manifold and after some thought we discarded the spray weld idea which he does as well. He uses a product which I will get the name of that is designed for high heat filling. Yes, I know everyone is rolling their eyes. This product has been proven when applied carefully and slowly.The deep pockets were filled in very thin layers of filler after sandblasting and oven curing between coats. Humidity must be near zero for good results. The key part being THIN coats and full curing by heat. I'm a full believer that now that this manifold has been repaired 16 will appear from the sky. I was just not willing to take the hit on points the moment the hood gets opened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Silverghost Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 (edited) Great Truck Restoration Project ! I did a Google photo search and found several photos of a restored red Divco "S" stand up drive similar to your project .WOW !How does one control the brake & throttle + clutch on a Divco "S" stand up drive model like your truck ?I assume hand controls ?I would also be interested in knowing what product was used to fill the exhaust manifold pits ?It must be pretty good to hold-up under exhaust heat !How much of the original body sheet metal do you think you might be able to re-use ; and how much will have to be re-fabricated ?I see quite a bit of rust in the cab itself. I remember the much later 40s-50s Divco milk trucks from my youth .There are quite a few of those later Divco's sitting around abandoned in Penna .Local Dairys had dozens of them still running in he 1970s.Also quite a few Divco built Good~Humor Ice Cream trucks are sitting abandoned around Phila. I have never seen one like your early 1936 Divco "S" project ! Good Luck ! Edited October 18, 2010 by Silverghost (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 Thanks for the interest in my project. Yes, the early Divcos are few and far between. That is why we picked it. The operation controls are different for sure. The throttle can be operated at the gear shift knob as well as a small pedal mounted downward in the floor board. The main pedal on the firewall is a combination clutch and wet brakes. The first movement is clutch a bit too much and the brakes come on. It also has a hand brake for the wet brakes as well as a handle for a parking brake.I have driven my Dad's Pak-age-car which is also a stand to drive. Still a bit different. The body sheet metal is rough to say the least. The hood is straight and savable. The support structure of the cab is usable. Many other panels are simple flat pieces with very few bends. We will rebuild the cab one piece at a time. The roof may be a challenge. I will get the name of the filler product used on the manifold. POR makes a high heat filler but Bill had a different product he preferred.The results look great so far.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidwillson Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 Thanks for posting pics. It certainly is an oddball, very cool. Could the C400 Continental mean 400 cubic inches? That would be a monster 4 cyl. Looks like a lot of work, but the rarity makes it more worthwhile. WTGHello Dean, No the C 400 is just a Continental model number. I would have to check the books for the actual cubic inches but it sure was not much. The top speed of this was rated at 30 mph. Remember this was a door to door delivery truck. The doors were very close in the brick bungalow town of Berwyn Illinois. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 (edited) When no one was looking I slid away from Christmas stuff to the shop. Started educating myself in the fine art of hot rivets. Installed 16 rivets with about 18 more to go. The heat of the torch is doing some damage to the primer on the frame but we expected that. Our hot formed rivet heads are looking as good as the factory ones.Not to bad of a job.**Note chassis is upside down. Edited December 21, 2010 by msmazcol (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted December 31, 2010 Author Share Posted December 31, 2010 These are a rascal in the frame horns. Two C clamps, 1 visegrip, and a porta-power for one rivet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 Front springs installed and checked for fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Brake drums and hubs back from the sandblaster. We applied one coat of epoxy primer and re-assembled the drums to hub. We have a brake relining shop about an hour from here. I'll have my buddy at the auto part store turn the drums and then have the shoes relined to match. They can arc the shoes to the drum at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Split the rear differential for a cleaning, re-gasket, and inspection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Silverghost Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 (edited) WOW !I never saw anyone take brackets & members off of any old chassis before;~~~~and re-rivet them back-on again with hot rivets after first painting the chassis . Now that's what I call a complete ground-up restoration ! Most folks would just slap paint on the complete assembly and call it a restoration. Keep your progress reports & great photos comming ! Edited February 10, 2011 by Silverghost (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Thank you. Trust me I did not want to remove all the frame brackets but the rust was severe between the frame and the spring mounts. I just could not see taking a chance on it to haunt me later. The frame will have final paint put on it this weekend. Won't be much longer and it will be time to start going back together. It may actually start looking like something! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 Looking for a few of these Dayton wheel clamps. They are mid 30's era but may fit more. Dayton # 5234.They are 20" split rim truck wheels but likely had other applications.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 That looks like the C-600 in my '33 Continental Flyer. What did you use for packing material in the water pump?Divco was owned at one point by Continental, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidAU Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Great job and excellent photo coverage. Looking forward to the exhaust manifold "fix" name.I came across this site the other day about Divco's which you may already know about but I'm sure others will be interested.David1923 Metallurgique torpedo1931 Rolls royce Phantom 2 Continental1940 Ford Deluxe Coupe1947 Mercury Coupe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidAU Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Web site for the above post.Divco, the Milk TruckDavid1923 Metallurgique torpedo1931 Rolls royce Phantom 2 Continental1940 Ford Deluxe Coupe1947 Mercury Coupe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 To answer a couple questions:The manifold filler used is called Pyro-putty. Aermco 845 268-0039.The product has proven results by a nearby tractor collector/ restoration shop.They are very familiar with having to save parts that simply do not exist any longer. It is VERY important that the instructions are followed to a tee. Humidity is a big factor when applying the product as well as patience.In reply to the question about the water pump on the C 400:A graphite rope packing was used in this pump. It can be purchased at any decent NAPA store as well as Mc Master-Carr. The other option is to get my machinist buddy involved and he can rework the pump to accept a modern style seal. He has had several vintage tractor water pumps in his shop recently with great success on the conversion. The reliability is very good with the modern seals installed. You can PM me if you would like his name.His rates and quality of workmanship are both excellent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 As promised paint going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 Absolutely GREAT work!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 Frame back in my shop with paint complete. The rear differential case is back from the sandblaster and has a coat of epoxy primer applied.I need to weld on two brake shoe hooks to the backing plate and then surface prep the case. After that is done it will be re-primed and be assembled again.A final sand and prime then it will get paint. The front axle will be painted at the same time and it is bolt stuff together time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted March 1, 2011 Author Share Posted March 1, 2011 Still plugging along here. Brake shoes re-built, drums and hubs bolted back together, epoxy primed.Drums cut.Reminder for the locals, Chicago Brushmasters Charity Auction March 4,5,& 6.Where all funds raised go directly to The Ronald Mc Donald House!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Did you arc the shoes to the drum? That always makes for a nice brake job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted March 1, 2011 Author Share Posted March 1, 2011 The custom arcing of shoes around here has become a no, no. Luckily my shoe re-builder must have done me right. The shoes are a dead on match when I laid them in the drum. The webs on these shoes especially the fronts were very sad. I was grateful to have a savable core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 Front axle painted and installed. First time we had a nice sunny day to roll it out of the shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Beautiful work and really brave to be using that "spit" setup! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Now that's a cowbelly frame if I ever saw one. Looks like it'd be easy to get hung up on that.Looks like Steeldraulic brakes. I got pretty good at adjusting mine. They don't seem grabby at all. Do you need an instruction manual for the brakes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmazcol Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 Do you mean my use what you've got rotator?It's about done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Do you mean my use what you've got rotator?It's about done.Yep...I have used similar tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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