Jump to content

Restoration underway on a 1936 Divco S model


Recommended Posts

Thought the members might like a update on our latest project from the Smazik shop. After a tip from a local body shop owner I proceeded to purchase a 1936 Divco S model stand to drive truck. The truck had come to rest behind a barn in a nearby town. Since the restoration of my Willys fire engine was complete it seemed like a shame to not have a money pit going.

Not knowing exactly what I had here I made a few phone calls and realized another diamond in the rough needed a home. My Father, Milton, and I have made great efforts to keep our collection going with off the wall stuff like his Diamond T Pak-Age-Car milk truck. Seems these Divco S models are very few and far between.

Our Divco has been determined to have come from Berwyn, IL. and served the area as a ice block delivery truck for the Berwyn Dairy.

While extremely rough there is enough to work with and the restoration is currently proceeding well. The C 400 4 cylinder Continental is nearly complete and was savable. The chassis has had all the brackets removed and is sandblasted and epoxy primed. Most of the work is being completed here in my home shop. Our hope was to complete the driveline this winter but the severity of the truck has slowed things a bit. As long as forward progress is made even slow as it may be things will continue on.

We look forward to completing the restoration and driving the Divco on a AACA show field for the first time. Any and all input or Divco knowledge is always welcome.

Thank you, Mark Smazik

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Dean_H.

Thanks for posting pics. It certainly is an oddball, very cool. Could the C400 Continental mean 400 cubic inches? That would be a monster 4 cyl. Looks like a lot of work, but the rarity makes it more worthwhile. WTG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Dean,

No the C 400 is just a Continental model number. I would have to check the books for the actual cubic inches but it sure was not much. The top speed of this was rated at 30 mph. Remember this was a door to door delivery truck. The doors were very close in the brick bungalow town of Berwyn Illinois.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Mike, yes I do believe it will be a bit on the different side. From what I have found from era photos etc. the body could best be described as a tow truck style with no boom in the bed. Most of the door to door photos seem to show open beds with a tarp, if even that covering the ice. I've had many people talk of ice deliveries coming to them in straw and even wood chips. Sounds like anything to insulate from the sun. The town of Berwyn where this truck was from had bungalows built almost wall to wall with "gang" walks between them. Most had back porch landings that the ice man would walk up and open a ice door cover sliding the block into. On the inside of the home was the insulated "ice box" which is where the food or milk would stay cold. The customer would have a ice card to place in the window letting the driver know if and how much ice they wanted that day.

I am lucky enough to have the front and rear fenders along with the running boards which give good clues to how the body needs to be fabricated. Currently my sign painter artist is working on a drawing using old photos along with actual photos of our truck and combining the two. We have already located the company logo from the dairy that owned the truck. Era correct painted lettering will be no problem.

A member of our local truck club chapter owns a company that has fabricated truck bodies since the early 1900's. He has all the needed equipment to make this come to reality.

Now all that's left is a touch of work and a winning lotto ticket to finish her up.

Thanks, Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Gemmer steering gear disassembled and bead blasted. Gear was frozen tight and would not budge. All bearings being replaced and rework shaft.

Two front spring bushings replaced and all new spring shackle bolts machined.

The spring mounts will be re-riveted to chassis after prep work is complete on frame.

post-60266-143138057461_thumb.jpg

post-60266-143138057463_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Recent action:

For the first time in many, many years the C 400 Continental is started and running on an engine mount. The motor took a great deal of repairs to return to usable condition. The elements had nearly destroyed the motor. Production shows only about two years of these built. Seems the next model was more reliable and greater numbers were built.

It was with the great talents of machinist Russell Emonds this original to our truck continental was saved.

Wanted-Wanted. We would like to find a better exhaust manifold if one can be located.

Thanks

post-60266-143138058634_thumb.jpg

post-60266-143138058649_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Yes, I know it is a bit pre-mature but I just picked this up today from a local source. These name plates are being re-made in the same method as they were back in the day. They have done some great stuff for me and offer many different processes depending on what was original.

American Nameplate

Chicago, IL.

post-60266-143138077308_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

John Rienzo is a gentleman I have made contact with. He is considered the Divco expert and has written a book on Divco history. I contacted him when I first located this one. He tells me there are very few S models left, maybe five or so.

What really caught our attention is he tells me the survivors are all milk truck bodies. Ours was never a milk truck and research is proving it to be an ice truck.

And so the story begins.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for asking. The name of the Divco history book is,

Divco A History of the truck and Company

Robert R Ebert and John S Rienzo, Jr.

John has been an awesome help since the purchase of our Divco this summer.

I can honestly say he is probably the most knowledgeable person on the subject.

John is also nearing completion of a 1937 S Model Divco milk truck of his own.

Published by Antique Power, Inc.

Thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Even with the Thanksgiving holiday approaching I was able to sneak into the shop today. I rolled the front axle in and proceeded to disassemble it. After removing the front drums the mouse hotels were removed at the lower end of the brake area. The axle bearings actually look decent and had lube in them. How about that? We'll remove the backing plates along with the steering arms to get better access for sand blasting. After the sandblasting is done the king pins get removed and inspected. I have an NOS set here if they are needed. Some of the brake hardware will need some soaking with PB but it will come apart soon enough. The bolts in the wheel cylinders came right out much to my surprise. Some of the old steel was better than anything we have today that is for sure.

Hope everyone has a safe and happy holiday.

Please remember the soldiers who can't be home with their families this holiday.

Thank you.

post-60266-143138137235_thumb.jpg

post-60266-143138137239_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Back in the shop today! The Christmas stuff can wait another day. I was able to remove the rear axle shafts and rear brake drums. Both drums were frozen in place by the shoes. One side was so bad I beat the shoes loose from the drum. The four legged creatures certainly like all four brake areas for condo units. Now I can get the drums and hubs sandblasted. We'll epoxy prime them and the turn the drums. At that point I'll take the shoes and drums to the

re-liner here in the area. A measurement from the drums will make for a better fit on the shoe linings.

I will also add this to the wanted forum but I am looking for two Dayton style dust plates that bolt inside the rear brake drums. They are a sheet metal plate measuring about 12" ,center hole about 5". They have a raise outer lip and also a raised area near the inside hole to accommodate the seals in the inner hub and bearing area. If we can't find two we'll have to make them. Just thought I'd give it a try.

Thanks

post-60266-14313814622_thumb.jpg

post-60266-143138146224_thumb.jpg

post-60266-143138146227_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Needed Brake Parts.

Have begun re-build of brakes on my current project.

The following Wagner Lockheed parts are needed:

FC 3103 (2) return springs

FC 3123 (4) lower shoe guides

FC 3130 (4) upper shoe guides

The applications are thought to be Mack 39-50, GMC 40-49, White 46-57, and Divcos which is what I'm working on.

The shoe guides are tack welded to the backing plate but are a serviceable item according to my info.

I will also need additional brake parts for this application but this stuff is top priority to find.

Please contact me with any help on this via PM. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Transmission and bell housing in place. Gear shift rebuilt including the throttle linkage. We could not find correct spring loaded linkage bells so made all new ones. All new linkage rods as well. Throttle can be operated at the shifter as well as with a small foot pedal.

We'll remove the accessories as well as other misc to allow a soda strip of the cheap paint keeping the rust under control while working on the motor. Epoxy prime and color to be applied.

This motor was by far one of the worst we have ever been involved in restoring. The word junk is the only word that comes to mind. It now runs great with the help of an awesome machinist.

Still looking for some help on the exhaust manifold. Can't find one and sure don't like the way it looks.

Has anyone had good luck with repairs prior to applying a finish to a manifold. I would consider porcelain or ceramic if some one has a prep that actually will give good results.

Any tips please let me know.

Thanks

post-60266-143138158342_thumb.jpg

post-60266-143138158345_thumb.jpg

post-60266-143138158349_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a bit of linkage now rebuilt. The one arm sticking up in the air is the main pedal located on the floor. It is a combination of a clutch and brake pedal. Part way down being clutch a bit too much and into the window the driver goes. The long handle that looks like a parking brake is actually a brake snubber allowing you to slow or lightly brake while turning. It also activates the wet brakes and is not for parking. The additional handle seen on the transmission is the normal parking brake.

Every shaft and every bushing including all of the throttle linkage has been built new. In other words if it moved it was wore out!

post-60266-143138158954_thumb.jpg

post-60266-14313815896_thumb.jpg

post-60266-143138158964_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Transmission and bell housing in place. Gear shift rebuilt including the throttle linkage. We could not find correct spring loaded linkage bells so made all new ones. All new linkage rods as well. Throttle can be operated at the shifter as well as with a small foot pedal.

We'll remove the accessories as well as other misc to allow a soda strip of the cheap paint keeping the rust under control while working on the motor. Epoxy prime and color to be applied.

This motor was by far one of the worst we have ever been involved in restoring. The word junk is the only word that comes to mind. It now runs great with the help of an awesome machinist.

Still looking for some help on the exhaust manifold. Can't find one and sure don't like the way it looks.

Has anyone had good luck with repairs prior to applying a finish to a manifold. I would consider porcelain or ceramic if some one has a prep that actually will give good results.

Any tips please let me know.

Thanks

Beautiful work! Is that a GTX or Roadrunner attached to the rally wheel in the background?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Transmission and bell housing in place. Gear shift rebuilt including the throttle linkage. We could not find correct spring loaded linkage bells so made all new ones. All new linkage rods as well. Throttle can be operated at the shifter as well as with a small foot pedal.

We'll remove the accessories as well as other misc to allow a soda strip of the cheap paint keeping the rust under control while working on the motor. Epoxy prime and color to be applied.

This motor was by far one of the worst we have ever been involved in restoring. The word junk is the only word that comes to mind. It now runs great with the help of an awesome machinist.

Still looking for some help on the exhaust manifold. Can't find one and sure don't like the way it looks.

Has anyone had good luck with repairs prior to applying a finish to a manifold. I would consider porcelain or ceramic if some one has a prep that actually will give good results.

Any tips please let me know.

Thanks

Calyx Manifold Dressing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a running joke I keep asking one of the past owners what kind of maintenance schedule they kept? After all this was a fleet vehicle, they always get the best of care right? He laughs and tells me when he was a kid his Dad had him grease the truck.

I asked him if his Dad told how to pump the handle.

LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Slow but steading progress is being made on the restoration. A remodeling project for a friend sidetracked me a bit, but here is the latest work coming out of the machine shop.

The front axle has been sandblasted and fitted with new king pins. I actually found a set on ebay that were correct. The backing plates were removed to allow access to the pins.

One of our biggest challenges has been brake hardware. The front brakes use a double webbed shoe different than any other we have seen. The large pivot pins that the shoes pivot on were destroyed by rust. They are about 15/16 in diameter and hold the shoes to the backing plates. They are also responsible for shoe adjustments so are important. After little success locating new ones replacements were custom made.

The third photo shows shoe hardware from the rear axle. The pins were locatable and the bushings were OK. Two new flat backing plate stiffeners were made.

We will clean the front axle up and prime and paint it. The backing plates will be installed.

post-60266-143138191416_thumb.jpg

post-60266-143138191421_thumb.jpg

post-60266-143138191424_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also completed is the Gemmer steering box. This unit was badly damaged from the water running down the steering tube and locking up the bearings in the case. The steering wheel had to be cut off the top of the center shaft. The box was completely disassembled. New bearing cones were available however races were not. The adjustment of the bearing against the race controls the tightness of the box. Since the correct races could not be found two new races were machined and then sent out for hardening. The center shaft which was locked up and then cut off to remove the steering wheel was made new also. The worm gear was pressed off and the new shaft was fitted to the internals of the box which were usable. A new outer steering tube was located and cut to length. A nylon bushing was added at the upper end to add support to the shaft. The upper end of the shaft was keyed and fitted to a NOS wheel. The wire in the center of the shaft is to be used as a fish line for the horn wire.

After many hours of machine work the box now turns with an ease it probably never had even new.

post-60266-143138191433_thumb.jpg

post-60266-143138191436_thumb.jpg

post-60266-14313819144_thumb.jpg

Edited by msmazcol (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...