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Pricing quetion on parts/restoration car


KDirk

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First, Happy New Year to all in Reattaland! I've been MIA for a bit, due mostly to an insane work schedule and the Holidays. Hoping to find time to get back on here regularly in '09.

Anyway, I have a chance to pickup a 1988 Red over Tan that was involved in an accident which damaged the front passenger fender and passenger door. Replacement of both panels will be needed. I can put the parts on, so labor cost isn't a big factor in repair. I'm sure I can buy the parts from Jim Finn or someone else here, if it gets that far.

That said, I am working off pictures provided by seller, and have not yet seen the car in person. I do not yet know the mileage or specifics on the mechanical condition. Car is described as driving/handling well. Asking price is $1200. I think it a bit steep unless it is really low miles and is exceptionally sound mechanically (i.e. very well maintained, no or minimal rust etc.)

So before I go check it out and try to negotiate, I am looking for "expert" opinions here on what I should offer that isn't insultingly low-ball. I'm thinking $750-850 given the damage and the repairs that need to be done, assuming the car doesn't have other major problems. As well, If it isn't worth fixing (a t least to me), what is the typical range paid for a parts car with fair to good complete interior and at mostly usable body panels and glass?

Any insight will be appreciated.

KDirk

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Kevin,

You've <span style="text-decoration: underline">got </span>to see/examine the car!

Once you have done so presumably you will

then know your <span style="text-decoration: underline">position</span>: Buy to drive or

buy for parts. Once decided,time to negotiate.

Your first offer <span style="text-decoration: underline">may</span> be unacceptable to

the seller but it is not necessarily "insulting".

From your post, it appears you have already

established your low bid (sight unseen) and he

the high bid.

<span style="text-decoration: underline">Recognize that people often ask for more than

they expect to get</span>.

<span style="text-decoration: underline">The person with the most information usually does better.</span>

Certainly you will be asking questions

about the car but keep in mind that <span style="text-decoration: underline">any </span>

other information may become apparent to reveal

<span style="text-decoration: underline">his</span> position.

<span style="text-decoration: underline">It is better to walk away from a sale rather than make too large a concession</span>.

I wish you success with this.

Regards

matthewlawe

89 White/Blue

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Welcome back!

First off, buying that car for yourself as a parts car doesn't make a lot of sense. It is all the wrong colors, interior and exterior, for your '91, as well as the electronics. CRT,IPC,tape player etc...

So now we look at it as a restoreable car. I would price out the door and fender thru either Jim or www.car-part.com. to determine that cost plus a little for your labor. [Keep in mind you can buy red replacements keeping your restoration costs low].

Then I would look at the interior to see if it was real nice and had the 16 way seats.

The 2 last things I would do are these.

Look at is the codes. To do that, press the hard key surrounding the CRT to climate. Then press the warm and off soft keys on the screen at the same time until it goes into diagnostics. Follow the prompts and write down the codes.

Your '91 doesn't have Teves brake system. I would do the brake test.

After that, and you are satisfied with the car, I would then negotiate to buy the car as a driver and keep your '91 pristine. The red/tans [i have one] will not appreciate as the '91 will, simply because of the way fewer production numbers of the '91.

In my opinion $750-$850 is a very fair offer. Keep in mind that the windsield,rear window and tail light is worth the $850.00 cost. [if purchased of car-part or e-bay. Jim I think, has these parts for less].

At any rate, if you buy the car, you will have a whole different appreciation for the Reatta. The '88/89 is the original design of the Reatta instrumentation and IMHO is the true Reatta.

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My first choice would have been an 89, I wanted the touch screen and I like the steering wheel better. Im sure there are plenty of parts for them too. Id like to have a parts car also but it needs to be silver unless I acquire an other Reatta with different color.

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Just as a point of reference, I know of an 89 that sold in the Chicago suburbs last week for $1000. It was black/saddle with 139000 miles and a decent running and driving car, with a touch of rust at the rear wheel wells. The 88 that you are describing sounds like it needs a lot more work, and is already more money.

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Under $1k is reasonable if it needs a lot of work (and a complete door is heavy and difficult to ship (unless boxed properly the lower corners are likely to arrive folded under).

I have a rule that if a car looks interesting but there are three things wrong (with the car or the deal) I walk away. There are still a lot of Reattae out there.

It is really amazing how many differences there are between the years and obviously the biggest is between 88-89 and 90-91 though there are many differences in each. Someday these differences will be important but right now, many cars are fixed almost randomly. For example until the '90 arrived I did not know that the door straps were different from the 88-89 or that no two years share the same compliment of dash switches. Today few care.

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Guest craig hewitt

give him 6 to 7 hundred bucks topps nobody can have to many reattas. I have a mauie thats needs frt clip sitting for a year just bought a 89 for parts 5 hundred and i have everything i need plus more.I say the person that talks first loses but you never know good luck.

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Thanks to all for the input. A couple of notes here for clarification:

I am, of course, aware of the differences between the 88/89 and 90/91 versions of the Reatta, and would not be buying this 88 for parts for my 91 (except maybe for glass or body panels which could be painted). I am hoping in the not too distant future to get a 88 or 89 so I have one of each variation on the Reatta. This car would be a suitable parts donor for that purpose if I could get the price down.

Therefore, if I bought this 88 for parts, it would be mostly for future use. I could use some items noted above on my 91 if ever needed, and could make the things I didn't available to other owners who did. Anyway, this car intrigued me mostly because I figure I can bargain on the price, and walk away if the seller won't budge. I also have a hard time accepting that if it goes unsold, it will probably go to the crusher which would be a shame since there are clearly usable parts there if nothing else.

It also has the advantage of being local, which I think I neglected to mention in my first post. Thus, no long drives, no shipping arrangements, and little wasted time if it turns out to be a garbage can.

I know I need to look at it to make a decision, my question at this point is what others who may have bought or sold collision damaged but drivable Reatta recently were paying/asking price wise, just as a rough baseline figure.

In looking at the forum classifieds, I see a decent, drivable claret red over grey 89 sunroof/16 way seats with 54k, asking $2550 OBO in Texas (a bit further than I'd like to go to buy one unfortunately). If this was close enough to St. Louis for me to go look at and was a different color combo (I kind of like the Claret red, not so sure about the dark grey interior), I'd probably buy it for the asking price and feel like I got a deal.

I point this particular car our because that is just over double the asking price of this 88 which in all likelyhood is a major project car. So, $1200 seems too high an asking price for a slightly wrecked 88 in the most common color combo, or at least that is my rationale.

I will try to contact the seller this weekend to arrange a look-over and see what happens. I'll post back here with the verdict.

Thanks again to all who replied.

KDirk

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