padgett Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 I am going to replace the steering wheel in my '90 with a matching one from an '89 but may want to restore the airbag in the future. Consequently I do not want to do anything irrevokable.When last in the place of junque I removed two airbags from a 90 and a 91 so am familiar with the process. However when disconnected, you are left with a large yellow connector on the wheel, a connector that must be removed and a resistor added.My question is this: "Is there a way to remove the pins from the connector and thread the cable through the wheel or is there a disconnect under the dash that allows the connector/cable to be removed with the wheel ?Frankly I would prefer to leave the cable in the steering column and tie the resisor in the area under the horn button but this requires removing the pins from the connector first.I have been trying to depress the catch with an .050 jeweler's screwdriver but this has not worked and am not sure if you poke from the front or back, top or baootom.Does anyone know how to remove the pins ? (While collecting the two airbags in the yard I also collected the male yellow connector to practise with but am on the point of cutting it apart just to find out where the prongs are). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MauiWowee Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Padgett, I don't know if there is any equivalent, but HD sells a tool designed to facilitate removal of those pin connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 17, 2008 Author Share Posted December 17, 2008 This is the connector from which I need to remove the pins: It is not shown in the 90 FSM, the only connector is C250 and that is not the one behind the airbag in the steering wheel (is part of a larger harness). In addition there is no connector diagram even for that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Greg Ross Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Could you not open up a female spade connector to friction-fit on to those pins? Solder your resistor between two connectors, voila, done, unadulterated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 17, 2008 Author Share Posted December 17, 2008 The problem is not attaching the resistor but in removing the airbag wheel and fitting the new one - the connector will not fit through the hole in the wheel but the pins alone may. I would really prefer not to cut the cable. (Connector in picture is one I obtained from a junk car along with the airbag & has a cut cable).OTOH I have not yet removed an airbag wheel, just the airbag and there must be some means to rotate the wheel without damaging the wire (like the horn ring). Could someone who has removed an airbag wheel plase comment ? What is under the wheel ? A ring as for the horn ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Padgett; The wheel comes off just as any wheel does. Under the wheel is the yellow coil for the air bag. After you remove that, there are two wires, one to the coil and one return. I cut the wires and crimped in spade fittings, put the resistor between them. I can always replace the air bag wheel and reconnect the wires to the coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 17, 2008 Author Share Posted December 17, 2008 Thank you, that is the piece I was missing. I have learned not to just "do things" when I can ask Someone Who Knows first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share Posted December 18, 2008 Hokay, it is in but a few issues not mentioned:1) 6 ohm resistor did not work (SIR warning light & error r021), 5 ohm resistor did not work, 4.1 ohm resistor worked (no warning light). Coil/airbag measured 3.3 ohms (used very low power ohmmeter).2) Used the smallest insulated m/f spade terminals I had & 1/4 watt resistor with minimum lead length to crimp. Required force to push assembly into steering column far enough to clear the lock plate.3) Had to rework broken top of plastic horn connector. (REALLY did not want to pull the lock plate to see if I had another). Note: the 89 steering wheel seems slightly closer to chest than 90 & a bit of a square hub in a round column. All workable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 Didn't I tell you to experiemen with the resistor??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share Posted December 18, 2008 I diid, I diid.Does it vary ? Think the original post said 4-7 ohms, another 5. Coil/airbag measured 3.3 Just lucky I had a 4.1 and that worked.ps proper statement is that SIR warning comes on with key, flashes a few times and goes out. With other values it came on steady and also had an ajoining "Electrical Problem" also on steady.Just as well, the 4.1 was a 1/4 watt and others were 1/2 - had enough trouble getting the rig with small spade connectors behind the lock plate (plate rotates with wheel so do not want any interference). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 I think I used a 4 ohm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sheldon Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 I would Like to put An Aftermarket wheel in my 90 Im having a problem with the horn sticking can you help me thank you Sheldon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 Horn sticking how - rubbing ? horn blows ? ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sheldon Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 I had to replace the Steering Column the nut would not get tight so this the First problem the second problem was when i turn the wheel to the left it would blow so i took it back I tilt the and the horn started to blow and blow and blow . I would Like to put An Aftermarket wheel in my 90 Reatta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 That usually means the plastic horn contact that wipes the ring & goes through the hub is shorting to ground. Could not say why without seeing it. Have had that problem before but was usually caused by not having the right part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 I think what you are trying to say that for one reason or another you had to replace your steering column. And when you replaced the steering wheel you could not get the nut tight. The result is that you now have some play in the wheel. You also have a situation that when you turn left the horn starts to blow. You also want to put an aftermarket steering wheel on your car. I am not sure as to why your wheel is still loose. Is there a washer you omitted putting back in place? Maybe someone else can answer this question for you. The reason why your horn blows is that the lead wire is making contact to the metal and making a circuit causing the horn to blow, you may want to go back and check your work to see what is happening. You can put an aftermarket wheel on your car, but if you buy a wheel that does not have an air bag you will have to put a resistor in place to "fool" the car so that the warning light does not come on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 There is a washer behind the spring (at least on a Fiero, not sure about Reatta) and if in sdrawkcab or omitted the wheel will wobble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sheldon Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 I think what you are trying to say that for one reason or another you had to replace your steering column. And when you replaced the steering wheel you could not get the nut tight. The result is that you now have some play in the wheel. You also have a situation that when you turn left the horn starts to blow. You also want to put an aftermarket steering wheel on your car. I am not sure as to why your wheel is still loose. Is there a washer you omitted putting back in place? Maybe someone else can answer this question for you. The reason why your horn blows is that the lead wire is making contact to the metal and making a circuit causing the horn to blow, you may want to go back and check your work to see what is happening. You can put an aftermarket wheel on your car, but if you buy a wheel that does not have an air bag you will have to put a resistor in place to "fool" the car so that the warning light does not come on.I replace the steering column because I could not get the nut tight. I believe the contact are bad on the horn button . placing a resistor in place to "fool" the car so that the warning light does not come on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 Here is Padgett and Jon's answer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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