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Guest sharkeymark

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Guest sharkeymark

Hello e1 I am new to ROA. I am also a TOA member. I bought this little jewel this weekend. Any Comments and suggestions would be appreciated. There are more pics in a reply post

My other car a 1966 Toronado on YouTube

<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4D0QnF-tUs"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4D0QnF-tUs" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>

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sharkeymark:

I'm not certain, but you may need to have a miniumum number of forum posts in order to post your photos (I could be wrong about this). I attempted to view your photos on Flickr, but it indicates that your photos are "private." Any chance you could provide us with a link to check out your new ride? We all love to see our member's cars.

Welcome to the ROA and this forum...

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Looks like a really good base from which to start. Perhaps Al is right on the number of post it takes for pictures to appear. Now I can see the ones from the first post that includes the YouTube on your Toro.

Keep us posted.

Ed

PS - Tell me something more about the dual snorkle air cleaner on the Toro. OEM?

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Guest sharkeymark

dual snorkel is the original restored by myself I located it

with the help of another TOA ROA member Darwin Falk

It will be a few months before I can start on the Riviera

I have to finish the Toronado first.

There are questions doubt as to whether the manifold, air

cleaner, dual carbs were factory installed, dealer installed,

or otherwise. As you see it is not a GS and was not "supposed"

to have been built in this manner. Yet there it is. The

car detectives are at work, lol

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Up until March of '66 with the addition of the MZ coded engine, all 2x4 setups were dealer installed. The GS for '66 came from the factory as an MW engine with a chromed single snorkle air cleaner on a Q-jet carb, and finned valve covers.

If the date codes on your 2x4 manifold are close to the build date on the data plate, and the carb numbers are correct for '66, you've got an OEM real deal. There was nothing in the VIN to indicate that the GS option was ordered for any particular car.

Ed

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Guest sharkeymark

Ed,

Tomorrow I am going to strip paint on block to get some

more clues. I have received some input about bracketing

to verify as well. I will confirm BS transmission code

and positraction as well as serial numbers on carbs. I

have been busy all week and couldn't get to it. It would

be nice to locate the build sheet as well. I did look for

it but it was not in the normal location. Could be mz

engine from another car? Dealer option? Good accumulation

of parts? If it is a mw with correct vin I could consider

it the real deal until otherwise proved wrong. I don't

know. Sure has made for some discussion though. Breaks

the mold of couldn't have a super wildcat without GS

option.

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Sharkeymark,

After going back and looking at the pictures of the engine in your Riv, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that outward appearances lead me to believe that this is not the original engine for this car. Hopefully you can prove me wrong. The two things I noticed, 1) -which is only cosmetic - all Riviera engines for '66 were painted red. 2) The valve cover on the driver's side is not from a '66. In '66 there was an OEM 'dent' in the front corner of the valve cover to allow room some California emissions equipment.

You'll need to check the date codes (cast) on the intake to see when it was built. Check out the stamped numbers (not cast) on the carbs, they're on the front of the passenger side front bolt flange - 4050S(F), 4051S®, and then you'll want to check the engine code and the VIN, both stamped (not cast) into the block surface where the valley cover sits. If the build date of your car is March or later in '66, the two fours could be factory installed; if so, the engine code will be MZ. If it's a '66 425, but not the 2x4 engine or a dealer installed 2x4 option, the engine code will be MW. M=66, W=425, Z=425 Super Wildcat (2x4). If it's a transplant, K=64, L=65, (T = 401.)

Here's a link to help you find where the engine code and VIN are located on the block. The illustration shows a '66 410 (MT 123) The three numbers associated with the engine code are of no significance to your search.

http://www.buicks.net/shop/reference/engine_ident_where.html

After you've done your research, let us know what you find.

Good luck,

Ed

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Guest sharkeymark

engine codes lx 352 5h924607

front carb 3645sb cb5 rear carb 3925sa aa5

body tag 06b 2nd week june

manifold 1370316B m 12

It appears to me from all the input and research

65 425 2x4 complete set up out of what I don't know?

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LX is the code for a '65 Super Wildcat. The 5h924607 probably doesn't match the VIN on your chassis either.

This carb info comes from the Jon "The Carb King," and his website at www.thecarburetorshop.com

1965 8 425

(Rear of 2 - A/T) Carter AFB 3925 860

1965 8 425

(Front of 2) Carter AFB 3645 860

Looks like your car has a complete '65 GS engine.

Now check the tag on the transmission and see what the year and code is for that. If you're lucky, you got the GS transmission along with the engine. It has higher rpm shift points and makes firmer shifts. The GS transmission will have a BS code on it. The code for "all other 425" ST400's is BT. These codes are the same for '65 and '66.

Ed

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Guest sharkeymark

Ed that's beautiful, they did a nice job. One thing though is there a specific brand of blue cream soda I should use LOL. (Look at the passenger fender well). Looks very nice I have heard that the water pump and ac brackets should be the same color as the engine. What coating do use for the exhaust manifold? I am not familiar with their restoration.

I have always had headers in the past. Thanks for the pic.

I will pass it along to the performance engine group for

an example of how I wanted repainted.

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The blue cream soda flavor is Windex. To be truly authentic, you need to have the triangular shaped washer fluid bottle, with the correct label,with the correct cap, filled with blue washer fluid, in the correct bracket on the inner fender. smile.gif

There are a couple of methods for restoring exhaust manifolds. A good way is to paint them with hi-temp cast iron paint from a rattle-can. A better way would be to have them powder coated. The best way would be to have them Jet-hot coated.

http://www.jet-hot.com/colorchart.html

Ed

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