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Spraying Rust-o-leum in a HVLP gun


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Here's a question that requires the do-it-your-self experience.

With Rust-o-leum paint in a spray gun, what's needed to get it to flow out like automotive paint?

It's time to redo my 3 gas pumps in the yard and I thought I'd change brands to GULF and paint them with orange Rust-o-leum in my HVLP gun.

Anybody had any experience with this? I painted the bottom of one of my trailers and it worked fine on the steel framing, but will it work on flat smooth body panels?

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I painted my torque tube with high-gloss black Rustoleum epoxy and thinned it about 15%. Flowed out beautifully. My problem was that it took a long time to cure, so when I set it back on the jackstands with rags on them, the paint moved around a little, leaving marks.

Here's a photo (it looks ashy gray, but is high-gloss black, the arrow points to a sag I had from laying it on too thick):

TT_third_coat_1.jpg

and

TT_third_coat_2.jpg

I would recommend two thin coats rather than one thick one. I was just trying to apply color rather than protection, but it was my first time with the spray gun, so it wasn't perfect. If you're familiar with your gun, you should have no problems.

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Paul,

I spray Rustoleum occasionally out of my primer gun. I have never sprayed with my HVLP. This is more my choice than anything else. I save the HVLP for more visible work. Be sure to check your tip size so it is correct for a slightly thicker material. I have found that if you thin with acetone in lieu of mineral spirits the Rustoleum not only flows much better, it dries more completely and much quicker.

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I think I used regular paint thinner from Home Depot. Probably not ideal, and perhaps why it stayed soft for longer than I expected, but no problems otherwise.

Of course, it hasn't been exposed to the road yet, so maybe it'll peel off in sheets. laugh.gif

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I've sprayed alot of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer using standard enamel reducer from the auto parts store. That way you can use slow, medium, or fast depending on the weather conditions. I've also used enamel reducer with the lower priced "equipment enamels" sold at Fleet Farm with good results. I have always used a regular old fashioned spray gun with a quart can, or hooked it to a 3 gal pot for bigger jobs. Eventually I'll try the HVLP gig.....for fussier jobs.

Rick

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  • 2 weeks later...

Rustoleum, or any other enamel type paint, using this ratio for mixing 8-4-1, thats 8 parts paint, 4 parts slow, medium or fast automotive enamel redcuer, and 1 part generic acrylic enamel hardener (Evercoats DOI wetlook).

1 tack coat, wait for paint to flash, depending on temp, humidity, then followed by 2 medium coats of paint.

If you are paing a vehicle, you can let this paint cure about a month, then color sand, and buff polish to a brilliant shine.

This mix sprays out real nice, lays down well.

I have shot this paint with regular mineral spirits too, but expect a slow dry/flash, this paint really does a lot better with a hardener added to the mix.

I have also used the rusty metal priemr cut with enamel reducer as a substrate base pirmer, once cured about a week, I have used body fillers, fibreglass, 2 k urethane primer/surfacers all with no issue, this rusty metal primer, has great adhesion, corrosion reistance, filling qualites, sands nice when fully cured too...........Fred

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Paul Dobbin</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here's a question that requires the do-it-your-self experience.

With Rust-o-leum paint in a spray gun, what's needed to get it to flow out like automotive paint?

It's time to redo my 3 gas pumps in the yard and I thought I'd change brands to GULF and paint them with orange Rust-o-leum in my HVLP gun.

Anybody had any experience with this? I painted the bottom of one of my trailers and it worked fine on the steel framing, but will it work on flat smooth body panels? </div></div>

This paint when mixed correctly as I have prescribed on my other post not only sprays well with a gravity feed hvlp gun 1.3, 1.4 ,1.5 tips, will be very glossy on a smooth well prepped surface, should come out looking awesome.

If you are hesitant, you could alway buy, an automotive acyrlic enamel such as Dupont, PPG, or even a Urethane based topcoat.

I think you will be surprised how nice, the Rusto paint can look, if sprayed with the right ingredients mixed in.........Fred

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KenHupp20</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You might want to check out using Penetrol paint conditioner.

http://www.flood.com/Flood/CustomerSupport/FAQ/DIY/Penetrol+FAQ.htm

The last time I used Rust-O-leum for a brushing project, I put it away and got some Benj. Moore, job came out great!

Ken </div></div>

I thought this thread was about spraying with an HVLP, not brushing???

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KenHupp20</div><div class="ubbcode-body">can be used for spraying or brushing ,sorry

Ken </div></div>

Rustoleum or any hardware store enamel equivalent can be souped up , by adding the Automotive enamel reducers, hardener/gloss agents. The to top that off color sanding, and polishing with Meguires.

I have to date been successful in doctoring Rustoleum paints, with no ill effects. While it is not a BC/CC, Urethane, or Auto Acrylic enamel, it is a tough paint, and can be very durable.

It may not be as tough in salt/moisture environments, like POR 15, Rust Bullit,Zero Rust, but for our purposes they won't be sitting in moisture and salt.

I do find Rustoleum very chemical resistant, a super corrosion resistant product to boot...........Fred

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