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wayne2reattas

Transmission problems X 2

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Hello everyone!

I have a 88 and a 89. In the last couple weeks the transmissions in BOTH have started slipping. I remember seeing on previous posts about using the Seafoam. I was just wondering if many have done it and if it does do any good... Also would it be better to try to get a low mileage transmission and have it put in or get the original rebuilt? Anyone have any ideas of costs? Thanks...........

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Sometime earlier in the year, my transmission would occasionally, perhaps twice weekly, not want to engage into first gear after coming to a full stop; it was as though the car were placed into neutral. Perhaps six months earlier than that, the transmission had been given a full flush. The folks here recommended Sea Foam which advice I followed. The condition slowly faded away, I cannot remember the last time the transmission misbehaved. So, while I am not a big believer in miracle products, Sea Foam, IMHO, is worth a try.

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The mileage is 153,000 and 164,000. I had transmission flushes done on both in the last 5-6,000 miles. The 88 slips pretty bad when it has to shift going up any kind of a hill. When you use the Seafoam do you add it, leave it in a while then have another flush done? Thanks for the info.

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Does the transmission slip in all gears or just 1st to 2nd gear changes?

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One thing comes to mind that might help if it is not slipping too bad is to install an adjustable modulator valve (if you don't have one). It will allow you to adjust how hard the transmission shifts. It will affect all gear changes. Having the other gears shift harder than normal might be a good trade off to get the 1st to 2nd gear change to stop slipping.

Adding the adjustable modulator valve will not prevent slipping for shifts at wide open throttle if the plates in the clutch pack are getting worn out. It is something that might allow you to get more miles of normal driving out of a transmission that is getting worn.

I find it odd that two cars started to slip after having the transmission flushed. You or your mechanic have not added any additives to the transmission have you? Any STP type additives will cause a transmission to slip. The additives that do help, like Seafoam, work by removing varnish and contaminates from spool valves and pistons in the transmission. They also soften seals to help them seal better. They can not fix worn or broken parts. Seafoam is with a try.

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Wayne, prior to using SeaFoam in my Reatta, I had used a product called LubeGuard. I had a 1990 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight Royal. At approx: 110,000 miles, tranny started slipping while up shifting. A friend that worked at a Buick dealer told me to try the LubeGuard. He had used it on several occasions, and it worked well. I added a 10 oz bottle to my transmission, drove about 40 miles, and the slipping stopped. Sold the Olds with 130,000 miles, transmission still shifted fine.

LubeGuard makes transmission additives for several different vehicle applications. I used the one in the red bottle (older GM models). For approx: $12.00, it's worth a try. The only place I've found it was at NAPA Auto Parts.

Just FYI.

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Might want to check your:

1) transmission throttle control cable (make sure it's adjusted properly)

2) vacuum modulator (if fluid is present replace modulator)

3) vacuum lines for any dry rot cracks and to insure proper connection.

For future ref. you might also consider adding an in line trans fluid filter, it will help catch any of the contaminants before they have a chance to circulate through tranny after a flush.

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No additives were added when the transmissions were flushed. If I try the Seafoam do I add it then run car some miles then have another flush done? Or just need to drain fluid after running some miles? I imagine with the LubeGuard Drake is talking about that you just put that in and don't have to do a flush? Thanks for all the input , it is appreciated!!

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steakneggs</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Your's is not a good commercial for transmission flushes.</div></div>

Don't recall who, where, or when, but I was told that a flush is a bad idea for high mileage auto transmissions. cool.gif

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I did not use any additive when I flushed the Reatta transmission nor did I use any prior or subsequent thereto except for the SeaFoam as previously outlined which helped a problem.

I have given numerous cars, Park Avenue, LeSabre, Avalon and Volvo all high-mileage first time transmission flushes with no problems whatever. The Volvo had been diagnosed in writing by a Volvo dealer as needing a transmission overhaul...I flushed it...never had any further problems.

In the future, I will probably adapt the Volvo do it yourself transmission flush procedure to the Reatta.

For those that need convincing that transmission fluid should be changed, see the essay here.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dnt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

For those that need convincing that transmission fluid should be changed, see the essay here.

</div></div>

Good essay........about changing, not flushing. cool.gif

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Note the part about changing the filter - pan must be dropped to do this and you will need a new gasket.

Wonder if you should flush then change the filter or to change the filter first.

Bit about temperatures is why I run my cars at 180 instead of 195. If there was a 165 or 170 thermostat available, I would use that. The coolant only has to be over 146F ffor the computer to stay in closed loop and the TCC to work properly.

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Wayne, when I used the LubeGuard in the Oldsmobile, I just added the 10 oz bottle to the transmission. I had serviced the transmission (fluid & filter change) prior to adding the LubeGuard.

When I used the SeaFoam in the Reatta, I added the SeaFoam, drove it approx: 500 miles, and serviced the transmission (fluid & filter change).

The only other thing I did, was to replace the transmission modulator (stock GM replacement). 10,000 miles, so far so good.

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I added the seafoam transtune for a sticking tcc. I drove it for 10,000 miles before replacing fluid. It still is working fine. I was under the impression that the transtune could be left in but others disagreed with me so I drained it. Search some other posts from Ronnie about using Klotz motor oil. I didn't do it because I live in such a cold climate (back side of the moon.)

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Thanks for all the info! I am taking it in tomorrow to have the vacuum modulator checked and the vacuum lines checked for leaks or cracks BUT how do you know if the transmission throttle control cable is adjusted properly?

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">BUT how do you know if the transmission throttle control cable is adjusted properly?</div></div>Have your mechanic check it tomorrow when you take it to him.

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Need to look in the service manual but I recall something about counting a specific number of clicks as you pull on the cable then tightening.

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Link with detailed instructions for Transmission Throttle Cable adjustment (3.8L Vin "C" with 440-T4 Tranny)

You have to scroll all the way down when you go to this link - but it's in there.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/17/f9/a0/0900823d8017f9a0/repairInfoPages.htm

Hope that's of use - I've got an ATSG Techtran Manual for the THM440-T4 so if you need info from it lemme know and I'll scan 4u.

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Hello!

I took it to the garage today. They pulled the vacuum modulator and it was FULL of fluid. So they replaced the modulator. Total cost $47.00. NOW the transmission shifts from 1st to 2nd perfectly smooth BUT slips bad when going from 2nd to 3rd!! Any ideas?? Thanks..

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Padgett -- Just went through the manual a few times and can't find any info about 'counting clicks' as you adjust cable. Do you have any more info about this? Thanks

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