Guest 40-41 connies Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 just wonder how tight should the 3 hold down bolts be on the valve cover on the 28 six. When I pulled the cover off, the springs have been rubbing on the inside of the cover and cutting small groves into the metal on the cover.Thanks,Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 Just hand tight with a large screwdriver. The original cork gasket was very thick when new (about 5/16", on the '29). So if it's hiting, the gasket must have been replaced with thinner one or it has been overly compressed. I just snug them down and check for leaks when running, then tighten more if needed.I could not find gasket material that thick, so had to glue two layers together, to make some for my 626, that were damaged. (There's 2 covers on the 8-cyl. engines)The valve springs are not that close to cover in the 8-cyl. engines, tho, so don't think that could be a problem with them. I didn't realize the 6-cyl. was.If you don't want to make them, Olson's-Gaskets may have them:http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/Most of the Packard Gasket vendors get them from Olson's, you can buy direct from Olson's at lower price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1928Packard526 Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 Pete,What Speedster has written above about valve cover gaskets sounds about right. As I remember when I did the valves on my 526 I was astounded by how thick the cover gasket was. I was fortunate in that the gasket came away cleanly from the block and remained stuck to the cover. Upon reassembly I wiped the interior surface of the gasket,(which was still sticking to the cover), lightly with a bit of solvent and then coated it lightly with gasket sealant, (the blue stuff), and installed it. My cover bolts, and they are bolts not screws on my car, I snugged only, (and a bit more) and the area has remained leak free. There were copper crush gaskets on the bolts as well as I recall. Whether the seal is the result of the sealant or a sound gasket I can't tell, or even care. So far as any rubbing on the cover I saw no evidence of any, but my gasket was still at least 1/4" thick. All valve cover gaskets in my experience are made of very thick cork material and this gasket seems to be no exception, other than perhaps being a bit thicker. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen_Dyneto Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 What I've been doing for many years on valve covers with cork gaskets is to glue the gasket to the cover with non-hardening Permatex (No. 2 as I remember), and then use a thin wipe of grease on the gasket side that contacts the block. Never had a leak, and nine times out of ten when I remove the cover for a valve adjustment I don't have to replace the gasket. And you're right about the copper crush rings under the bolts, at least on the Eights and Super Eights 32-39, not sure about the others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 40-41 connies Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Thanks. I did tighten the bolts some with a wrench and will back them off some. Mine has the crush washers also.THe gasket that was on the engine was very old and came apart when I removed the cover. I used a valve cover gasket from a 235 Chevy to remake a new one. It is 1/4 inch thick. Use of the two long pc worked fine with not cut on them. I left one end of the gasket on and trimmed it to fit so the other end new has a cut pc to snug up between the two long ones.I glued the gasket to the cover with permatex. I then used the orange permatex on the gasket part that seals against the block.The engine starts and run nice now. I did adjust the tappets on all the valves.How do I adjust the carb to get a little leaner mix.I pulled the plugs to turn the crank while setting the tappets and the new plugs all have a coat of black instead of brown around the points.Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 40-41 connies</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How do I adjust the carb to get a little leaner mix. </div></div>Basicly, you adjust the locking-nuts, at top of the upper air-inlet shaft, so larger weaker of the 2 springs will apply Less force on shaft, allowing the inlet valve to open more, at a lower vacuum pressure. (remove 2 screws and cover to expose springs)But before changing it you Should attach a vacuum-gauge to intake-manfold to assure proper vacuum level of around 15psi.Low vacuum at Idle is a common cause of Rich mixture. (leaks at gaskets, fittings, valves, spark-timing incorrect, etc.) So make sure it's not caused by something else before adjusting carb springs.You don't have to move the adjusting nuts much, to get a big difference in spring force. Just 'Trial and Error' is the only way I've found to do it, so be careful and take notes of how many turns, which direction, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1928Packard526 Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Pete,Speedster offers good advice about checking your vacuum level as a starting point for adjusting the carb. You must have a good vacuum for this carb to operate as it should. Speedster's "trial and error" method of adjusting the carb works, I'm sure, but just in case you want to do the adjustment "by the book" here is a clip from the Owner's Manual for Packard Sixes. You might consider downloading the entire manual from the Packardinfo site to have a complete reference.Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1928Packard526 Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Pete. Sorry about the size. Let's try that attachment again.Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 'By the Book' ??? How Quaint! LOL I hope the book goes into a little more detail than that page alone. It left out some important details and varibles, unless they assume those are obvious, which most of them Are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 40-41 connies Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Will attempt the adjust tomorrow. I had to rebuild the fuel pump on my 28 studebaker. Made a diaphram from a ford pump as getting one for the stude is hard to find. Works fine now and no leaks. The Stude and the Packard look simular. Both big 4 doors and plenty of room in the back seat. However, the packard is built like a battleship and much more design and expense in building it. Stude has wooden spoke wheels and a six with the spark on the wheel. Now my wife and I can drive out 28's down the road together.Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1928Packard526 Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Rick L.,You may consider the Owner's Manual for the car as a "quaint" source and lacking in detail on this carb adjustment, but I know of no other source that covers this adjustment in greater detail. If you do, please share it with us. I am always ready to learn.Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Pete, Are you getting too serious, again? For Shame! For Shame! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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