Jump to content

re-design engine mount for mismatch engine- ideas?


Recommended Posts

I have a 1936 Plymouth with a 1952 230 CI Dodge engine. It is installed (and the car was sort of drivable).

However the bottom studs on the rubber engine mount that is in the car (which is the original one) fit the stud holes in the engine support brace but the bolt holes on the top part of the mount do not line up with the holes on the bracket on the 52 engine. This is of course because this mount was meant for the 36 engine.

I don't think that the mount for the 52 engine will fit the 36 engine support brace.

Has anyone ever done this conversion?

<span style="font-weight: bold">Is it possible to use the engine support brace from a later year?</span> Would this actually make maintenance easier? Mine encircles the front of the engine area where it appears that the later models are only U shaped making certain maintenance easier (such as removing timing chain cover - with 36 the manual says that you have to remove the fenders).

Another idea would be for me to use the 36 engine mount but widen the holes on the top engine bracket (just cut a slot working out from the upper holes until it is wide enough to get the bolt in). I would think that the force on the bolts is mostly up and down anyway (as it rocks).

Another solution would be to try and build a custom engine mount that is similar to the design of the one on the later models but it would have to be custom made to fit the bottom mount.

I am sorry if this is confusing. I think that if someone has encountered this problem they would hopefully understand what I am saying.

Rebecca

Link to post
Share on other sites

The engine mount does vary from mdoel to model. The metal should be stamped with the applicaple model number on your vehicle. As the bodies/frames changed more than the engine, 35 and up about the same with exception to a few oiling and accessories added like PS, one would think you would only need find the engine stand for the car application not the model of your engine. The engine has two basic mounts..the possibility that you will also need to match the engine plate does exist. However with the hole of the foot aligning to the frame, the plate choud be more easily adapted to what ever mounts fits the engine plate..

Link to post
Share on other sites

Remove the pulley/harmonic blalancer (depends on year if you have the balancer..not really needed) water pump out of the way...remove the timing chain cover..then the chain and gears...plate should now unbolt and slip on the plate you need..when assemblying..be sure the timing chain cover IS NOT tightened until you have placed the pulley/balancer back on as the cover is designed to float a tad for alignment..the seal will seek center around the pulley shaft..there is really not a need for all the hoopla you afford this as a slight change in bolt pattern to the upper or lower bracket will get the mount in place...if you are really that concerned...get the matching mounting frames before you go any further.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have thought about this and I have decide to use the readily available later style rubber mount (cheaper and matches my engine). I will fix the lower end instead.

I will buy the later style rubber mount (studs straight through such that the spacing is the same on the top and bottom). This will fit my engine but not the cross member from 36.

Then I will either elongate the holes in the lower cross member (make the spacing wider) and hope that it won't shift (I don't think so since the studs in the upper side go through holes and they are the same studs and the force is mostly up and down one side at a time.

The second option for using this readily available engine mount is instead of modifying the cross member that I have I could try and use the newer U shaped cross member. This would make maintenance easier (because it could be removed more easily (without removing the harmonic balancer and fenders). I favor this option but I could start with modifying my current one (nothing to loose) and switch it later when I need to remove the timing chain cover - UNLESS I FIND ONE VERY SOON TO TRY - anyone got one for sale).

Rebecca

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

The later readily available motor mount did not fit (no clearance to install it because it has 4 studs instead of 2 studs and 2 bolts. After trying to instal that one in the end I ended up modifying the engine side instead so that the original style rubber mount would fit. I got an NOS one that was in pretty good shape and installed it.

Rebecca

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...