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oil line connector


Earl B.

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This brass connector screws into the block, and the return oil line screws into it. You can see how it's clogged. It looks like a piece of metal in it. I've tried to blow air through it, and no go, and no light passes through. I've tried to pick at the clog and remove it, and nothing moves.

Is this a piece of trash that got out of the filter and clogged the line, or was there some sort of valve inside the connector. Many thanks for all the help, B

post-48053-143138009697_thumb.jpg

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Not seen one personally so I can't recognize it from the picture, but if you've checked the parts book you already know the 901-902-903-904 used an oil filter restriction valve, part numbers 194782/194783. Almost all bypass type oil filters have some form of restriction, adoption of the full-flow system in 1934 eliminated the need for the restrictor valve I believe.

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Guest imported_Speedster

Yes those systems have a restrictor fitting. It's usually mounted at inlet of filter, tho. But sure sounds like that's what that is.

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Here is the other end of the same fitting.. looks like that would restrict things enough. With that 'plug' in place, there is nothing going to go through.

As I've said..I'm no mechanic.. please explain the purpose of restricting the oil flow... many thanks,...B

post-48053-143138009776_thumb.jpg

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Guest imported_Speedster

With a bypass type filter system only part of the oil is being filtered at a time. You want most of the oil to go into engine to lubricate it. The restrictor greatly reduces the amount of oil going thru filter and therefore inceases oil volumn and pressure to engine.

The restrictor is best located on inlet side of filter (somewhere between pump and filter). In above post you said the fitting was "in return line". Do you know if it is the inlet or outlet line of filter (from pump or dumping into crankcase)?

To test the fitting I would blow air thru it, from air-compessor. It may be a oneway-valve (and restrictor), so if not much air gets thru one direction, try the other direction. If it is a oneway, be sure to reinstall it the correct direction.

The reason I say it may be a Oneway valve also, is that it's Not like any restrictor fitting I've seen.

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Well, whatever the thing was plugging the connector, it's gone now. I drilled it out this afternoon. I left the bottom as is, so it's still restricted as to flow. The blocking piece was brass and hardened goo I think....B

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Guest imported_Speedster

Okay, I hope you are correct. Just watch your oil pressure when you get it running. If it's too low then you may have to 'Plug it Back Up'. grin.gif

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Rick, Well, the way it was it was totally closed and useless. This way, it is usable...... I'm sure this will be hard to believe, but I have a complete spare motor I'd forgotten about.. it's at a friends storage building. I never go about it, and had simply forgetten all about it. I just went to it and stripped off the oil lines, filter, and connectors to compare...B

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  • 1 year later...

No direct experience, my 34 has the full-flow filter. But I suspect it may have been a combination restrictor and check valve to keep the system flooded with oil when the engine is idle. If you're going to replace it with a simple restrictor, I'd think an orifice of about 30 thousandths would be a reasonable place to start experimenting, you certainly don't want to have more flow thru the filter at the expense of engine lubrication. You might contact Chris Charleton in Oxford ME about a possible reproduction from the old Art Brummer operation.

Edited by Owen_Dyneto (see edit history)
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What I did is take the fitting, tap it for a allen head plug. Then drill the allen head at .063. Brought the oil pressure up to 10 when idling and 30-40 lbs when driving.

The engine is done but I still have problems. Number one is overheating. Number two is the transmisison is in worse shape now then before it was rebuilt. Keeps popping out of 4th gear when you lift off the gas. Only way to stop it is to keep hand on the stick. Also sometimes at a complete stop, gears ares still spinning so you got a clash. May try 140 wt oil to see if that helps.

Not a happy camper right now.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Ken, looks like things may be looking up based on your Packard Info post? Hope so - even a Packard can be frustrating from time to time, but worth it in the end!

Still lots of drive and enjoy season left!

Steve

Well the transmission seems to be pretty much fixed. I took a much longer ride than I had today and notice that the oil pressure dropped to about 25 pounds at 50 mph. I'm wondering if the .060 restrictor needs to be smaller. Also the car is running hot. I being told bythe mechanic and others that until thecar breaks in (500 miles) it will tend to run hot. I don't know if a rsdiator recore is inmy future. Had the radiator flush out two years ago. Reflushed it again o the car.

Is is frustrating. Engine sounds great with no smoke or oil usage. I cannow rive with the top down:)

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My frame of reference is a 1934 Eight (319 engine) so I can't comment quantitatively on the restrictor as mine has the full-flow system, but 0.060 sure seems large. I think I would have started very small and perhaps worked my way larger if needed. By comparison my 34 runs at about 45 psi hot at 50 mph, about 20 psi hot idle with the pressure relief valve set to open at 55 psi which is always reached on cold startup. In fact the pressure will go off-scale at cold/idle without adjustment of the relief valve.

Edited by Owen_Dyneto (see edit history)
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