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CV Joint Boots


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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rofly1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When I was changing the oil and filter yesterday, I noticed just one torn boot on the cv axle. I think napa had a two piece boot. Has anyone used them with any success? I hear no sounds coming yet. Would it be advisable to change both boots?

Thanks Roger </div></div>

With age, temperature extremes, snow and other junk it carries, boots tear. Once that happens, lube flies out and dirt sticks to the inside grease (acting like a grinding wheel on your CV joint). It's an easy thing to check.

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with the price and time it takes to clean and grease and replace with a new boot, you can get a remaned axle just use your tone ring from the old axle and you are good to go. all the 3.0 and auto cars use standard daytona, spirit, lebaron turbo axles

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Personally, I would remove any half-shaft with a torn boot, wash it real well, and check for wear. After careful inspection, if it is still ok, put a new boot on and pour in a packet of lube (they come pre-measured).

Of course, if you find excessive wear, start looking for a rebuilt half-shaft (at nearly every parts store). Cleanliness and lubrication is the key to longevity in every CV joint.

If you have a good 'trans & gear' shop near you, they have all the parts you need, and they will walk you through if you decide to do the job yourself. With proper tools, you can do it in your driveway.

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The plot sickens! It appears that all the engine mounts are shot, the driver side bearings in the transmission output are worn out and allowing the drive shaft to sag down and bounce off things. My favorite mechanic says there are no good transmission shops around my town. Have any of you out there ever fixed a transmission differential bearing retainer(page 21-58 figure 25)in place? My mechanic friend says that there was an after market kit to fix this problem. Anyone know about that? I'm going to pull the part out of my parts car tomorrow and see what it looks like. Anyone want an 89 royal cabernet hulk for the body parts? I'll need to move it out for a place to work. No takers - it goes you know where. It is in Elizabeth City, NC.

Thanks,

Mike

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That pic is for the passenger side.

The bearing is for the differential not the axle.

First drain the transmission since the fluid will pour out when the axles are pulled. (remove the pan)

I'm guessing the diff pin is wasted because of one wheel burnouts? That may be the fix your mechanic is talking about. Chryco now has bolt on flanges to prevent the pin from slipping out.

Maybe just get a replacement axle and see if it has slop when inserted?

You should definitely replace the axle seals on both sides. wipe some grease on the back side where the spring is located. That will prevent the spring from popping out of place when the seal is tapped in.

I went downstairs and looked at the spare parts. That has to be the diff pin slipped. The passenger side wouldn't wobble because it has a bushing plus the bearing.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Folks,

I've been reading this forum for a few months but this is my first post. Last summer I inherited a very sharp '90 Red/Black/Black V6 from my father who has collected a few TCs over the last several years.

I was thinking that I needed to replace my left CV joint but after reading this thread, it seems to be a better idea to replace the entire axles. Does anyone know the exact part numbers for the proper front axles? Also, what exactly is the procedure for swapping over the anti-lock rings?

Thank you guys for all the advice I've gotten on this forum so far.

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After doing four axles I now consider myself an expert. Auto Zone is the best place to get engine mounts. They were even in stock, and the clerk did not look at me funny when I told him I wanted parts for a TC. Start with the engine mounts and replace them all. Then pick any front wheel drive turbo dodge with an engine similar to yours. That will probably be the drive shaft you will use. Car Quest actually had a drive shaft for my 89 SOHC 2.2 T2. It was in California and they said it was the last one available. NAPA will sell you a brand new shaft for about a hundred bucks. It will have a tone ring that is too big for the TC. Carefully grab the spline end of the shaft in a padded vise (aluminum or copper jaws) and use a convenient soft metal bar to drive the tone ring off the shaft. Use the samr procedure to remove the tone ring from the original shaft but use a bit of penetrating oil to help it along. Be sure to drive the tone ring a bit at a time from various sides to keep it moving evenly off the shaft. Put the old tone ring on the new shaft and tap it into place using the same soft metal bar. be sure it is the same distance from the conical end of the shaft as it was on the original shaft. Some of the new shafts have the shoulder machined further back so the tone ring goes on too far. Don't forget to drain the transmission before pulling the left side drive shaft. You may experience a lot of difficulty getting the right side shaft loose from the intermediate shaft. It will be a good idea to let the spline joint soak in penitrating oil while you work on the left side. Read the book and find out how to center the engine in the engine mounts. Good luck.

Mike

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hemi Dude</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The ABS wheel sensor IS ADJUSTABLE people. </div></div>

I had thought (but never verified blush.gif) that even pulled all the way back, a larger tone wheel from a LeBaron/Daytona would still make contact with the sensor housing? You've used the larger tone wheel and gotton away with it Dr?

Alan

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