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Stuck trunk lock on a 68


ccole

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I've got a 68 with a stuck trunk lock. They key will go in, and it will turn a little, but any significant force looks like it's going to bust the key.

I've pulled the rear seat, but the opening is too small to climb through and mess with. Is there a trick to opening the trunk from the inside? I've got a copy of the 66 Fisher manual and there's nothing in it that might help.

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If you haven't already tried it,spray some penetrating oil in the lock and let it sit for a while; then try the key again. PB Blaster works as well as anything I've found.

Can you see the back of the lock from the rear seat area? If so, is there a slot on the back of the lock that a verrrrrrrrry long screw driver would fit into?

On the '64 that I have, removing the license plate lamp housing exposes the trunk latch. If needed, I could fashion something that I could go up through there and work the latch, I've had a couple of '66's and 67's but I don't remember how they were built.

Good luck.

Ed

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I've been a locksmith for over thirty years

Ed,s suggestion of a long screwdriver is on the right track. What we used to do with these back when I was a kid working with my dad at the lock shop was duct tape a flat head screwdriver to a broom handle. this does two thing: first it of course makes it longer so it will reach the latch, second, it offsets the position of the pole so your "reaching tool" doesn't block your view of the "manipulating tool."

On the back of the latch you will indeed see a slot with a flat stem from the lock cylinder sticking through. Put the tip of the screwdriver beside the stem and give it a counter clockwise turn. this should open the trunk lid assuming that the latch itself is not the culprit. if it is you will need to stack extensions and unbolt the latch with a ratchet wrench.

I should preface this by telling you to check and make sure you don't have a tee shirt or luggage strap or something else stuck in the latch, or say, a box putting pressure on the lid. You should be able to see this if you have the seat out. If that is the case then try alternately pushing down and pulling up on the lid while working the key.If this doesn't work then you will have to unbolt the latch as I previously mentioned.

Once you get the lid open remove the U shaped clip and take the lock to a reputable locksmith in your area for repair.If you have a lock cover trim you may have to drill two pop rivets to remove it. The problem is most likely a spring cap that has broken or come unstaked inside the lock cylinder. This is not something that you can repair yourself since you either need replacement face caps or a specialized tool to pull and remove the existing cap(which is , believe it or not preferable). There is a sheet metal cap on top of the tumbler springs which holds them in place. Sometimes the factory either didn't stake it in place sufficiently or it was not staked in place at all.

The problem can most likely be repaired. It it usually better to do this than to replace it with a cheap Chinese made aftermarket lock. If you do replace it try to get either NOS or a good replacement such as old Briggs and Stratton, ASP or Strattec. Try to find either an old guy who has been a locksmith since these cars were relatively new or a younger guy who has been in the business his whole life to work on it. Anyone who loves what he does and has a real zest for it will be good. As a rule of thumb if they get excited about your cool old car they will probably treat it well.

You can always go to them to open the lid also which may be better (depending on the technician) since they may have more experience and make short work of it. Locksmiths are usually cheaper than you would expect if you find a good one. Whatever you do don't lose your cool and get forceful with it. Remember, a lock's job is to make it hard for you. Let someone who is trained do it if you feel you are over your head.

If all else fails let me know where you are and I'll see if I know someone in the area to help you out. Locksmith's are a band of brothers and will help each other out normally.

Good luck, Be careful and

Keep me posted

Paul

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I should also add, which I neglected to mention before, that when you try a screwdriver in the latch from the back seat side put the key in the lock and make sure that it will turn the little that it is turning now first. This will make it easier to open the latch and keep you from breaking the tailstem off the back of the lock.

Paul

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  • 3 months later...

My MGB is a 76. The trunk had been hard to open from the time I bought it in mid October. I had to lift both the lock horn and luggage rack just to get it open. I never had a key and bought a new lock from Victoria British and planned to replace it. That very day it became stuck. I had a locksmith look at it and he tried his "burglar tools" on it to no avail. We agreed to ask around and call on others before reverting to my plan B which involves C-4 and a good length of primer cord. I thought about going through the bulkhead behind the seats but I called the previous owner and he assured me it's a solid sheet of steel. I've heard about "drilling out" a lock in this type of situation. Is that a possible plan of attack?

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Guest RivyRob

Hi CCole;

If you take off your gas lid, you will be able to get at the screw which holds the lock retainer - and just pop it out. See, when the gas lid is open, it hides that screw.

Hope that helps you.

I also want to take this time to wish everybody a great Christmas Holiday Season and the best in the New Year

RivyRob

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