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My clutch seems to be binding somehow... any advice?


Guest Tishabet

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Guest Tishabet

Hi guys,

here is what is happening: My clutch pedal is sometimes literally sticking to the floor. When this first occurred, I figured that I needed to lube everything so I went underneath the car, located the zerk fitting on the pedal cluster, and greased it. This has had little to no effect... the pedal still sometimes sticks. I have taken to driving the car barefoot so I can pull up the pedal with my toes crazy.gif

Yesterday when at a stop, I pushed in the clutch, put the car in reverse, pulled up the pedal with my toe and released the clutch (clutch pedal up fully) and...nothing happened. In the next split second I had time to think to myself "maybe I didn't put it into gear?" when suddenly the clutch engaged completely, as if I had "dropped" the clutch. Needless to say this scared me a bit.

Any idea what could be causing this symptom?

Relevant background:

Car has been on the road since last summer, less than 150 miles on it since it came off the road in the 70s.

Whoever had the car before me likely replaced the clutch as the flywheel is 180 degrees out based on timing mark. Engine had been out of the car for a complete overhaul when the car came off the road in the 70s.

The clutch has a pronounced chatter that can shake the car.

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Guest ZondaC12

Knowing what little I know....all I can think of is the "spring" aka pressure plate. http://www.superformance.co.uk/parts/5001f_308_pressure_plate.jpg I know that those "fingers" act as a spring and force the clutch discs together. They exert force into/out of your computer screen (as youre looking at that picture) so maybe that's lost its springyness (LOL) or that sleeve in the middle is sticking on the shaft? Dont really know why I posted this the wise ones will surely be along soon grin.gif

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Guest simplyconnected

I will assume nothing is broken. The throw-out bearing slides on the transmission nose-shaft, when you depress the pedal. I wonder if that noseshaft might be rusty, or have a small groove worn into it. The noseshaft is usually made of cast iron, which is 2% carbon (graphite is a natural lubricant). Years of non-use might cause rust to form.

If you can get into the bellhousing, like where the fork enters, and lubricate the noseshaft, then 'work' the pedal in and out, that might solve your problem. Be careful not to spray any oil on your clutch disk or pressure plate. Enter between the throwout bearing fork and tranny. Initially, I would use something that will evaporate, but disolve rust, like some penetrating oils (sparingly). After it is free, the cast iron properties should take over, and self-lubricate.

Once, I found the fork was only grabbing one side of the bearing (installed wrong). Amazingly it worked, but it didn't feel right (kinda mushy). That might cause your linkage to stick, and your clutch to chatter.

For sure, this needs to be fixed, right away. Don't be afraid to pull the tranny. Use a good shop manual. It's not that tough, and has been done in thousands of driveways. Just looking, will tell you a lot, and taking pictures will help, tremendously. You can also replace the flywheel correctly, before you finish. The only 'tricky' part is when you re-install the transmission, aligning the spline through the clutch disk, and into the pilot bearing. Some garages use a hand-held spline when they bolt the pressure plate and flywheel together. I find if you're good at eyeballing the ass'y straight, there's no need for special tools.

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Based on the history you provided, it is possible that it was not assembled correctly. I suggest you take it to a good garage familiar with older cars.

The only one I know in your area is Gunther's in Dracut MA. If he can't work on it, he will know of a good place for clutch work.

You could get some Shaw Farm Dairy ice cream while you wait... (My family's farm on New Boston Rd. in Dracut).

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Guest imported_JPIndusi

Your car may be equipped with a Hill-Holder or No-Rol system. This has a rod that connnects to one end to the clutch linkage and the other end goes to the No-Rol cylinder. The way it works is as follows:

With the car facing downhill at a stop light and waiting for a red light to change there is no involvement of the No-Rol. If you are at a light facing uphill, you depress the brake and clutch together. You now release the brake and the car will not roll back because the No-Rol system is holding the fluid in the brake system from returning to the master cylinder. After the light changes to green and you accelerate and release the clutch, the No-Rol releases the fluid to run back to the master cylinder.

If the system is not adjusted correctly or is defective it will affect clutch operation. If you have No-Rol, try disconnnecting the rod to the clutch after you are sure the brakes work correctly.

Joe, BCA 33493

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Guest imported_Thriller

Thanks for the description Joe...I have some clutch chatter on the '41, but I'm not sure if I have the hill holder option or not on the car. That probably isn't the issue though...sigh.

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Guest simplyconnected

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Thriller</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> ...That probably isn't the issue though...</div></div> Hey, I know one way to find out where your problem is. Pull your clutch apart and inspect the flywheel, disk, and pressure plate. The whole story is right there. I have done mine in one Saturday afternoon. Now, we have camcorders and digital cameras for instant reference. While you're at it, put the flywheel back on correctly. Your clutch shouldn't chatter, it should be smooth as silk, and tough enough to pull a trailer.

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