Jump to content

65 Riviera door jamb switch


srr60

Recommended Posts

I found a listing for considerably cheaper door jamb switches on rockauto.com at http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...Rc1319329k32532

There are two switches listed, one is a two terminal and the other is a one terminal. I don't know which would work but they are about $30 less than Clark's. Anyone know?

AIRTEX Part # 1S4728

2 Terminal Switch Exc. Rear Courtesy Light w/Anti-Theft

$2.27 $0.00 $2.27

AIRTEX Part # 1S1016

w/1 Terminal

$3.74 $0.00 $3.74

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your Riv needs a three pronged switch. Check Buickrodder on ebay, he sells a pair for what Clarks gets for one. I also know that you can rewire your lights and use a 70's era Thunderbird switch. I think that Clarks' is the only one that doesn't need some rewiring if I'm looking at them correctly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

If you wire a diode into each of the three circuits (in the correct direction, of course) you can use any single terminal switch. I did this on my '65 and it works fine. It takes six diodes total -- three for each side. You can get them at Radio Shack.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hello Mr. Sweeney!

My apology for taking so long to respond - it has been a while since I've logged onto the forum.

If you study the wiring diagram, you'll see that the reason that there are three separate switches contained in each assembly is because there are three different sets of lights that illuminate when the door is opened. If you use a single-pole switch unit (like those used in almost every other car)and just wire all three to it, you will get current fed back into the other circuits when you, say, turn on the courtesy lights when the doors are closed. Diodes, if you're not familiar with them, only allow current to pass in one direction like an electrical check valve. By putting a diode into each of the three circuits (per side), you prevent this backflow so you can use a simple single-pole switch assembly. Of course you need to be sure to get the polarity right when you install the diodes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The diode idea might be worth persuing for use with a single pole switch. The way it's set up from the factory is that each of the three separate cicuits can be switched on when the doors are closed. The 12v source goes to the lamp and the door jamb switch completes the circuit by grounding the lamp when the door is openend. If diodes are used on each of the three wires going into the OEM switch, would a single pole switch still work? You'll still have to make some sort of auxillary harness to connect the 3 OEM wires into one wouldn't you?

Your best bet might be to contact Paul Metzler, ROA #760, and have him rebuild yours. $15.00 each or $25.00 for a pair. See his ad on page 30 of the latest Riview. Center column, middle of the page <span style="font-weight: bold"> '63-65 door switches </span>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm not speculating here - I actually did this to my '65 and it works great. Without the diodes, you get a host of different inappropriate bulbs glowing at different intensities when you, say, turn on the courtesy lights when the doors are shut. I just used a pair of random single pole switches that happened to fit the openings in the hinge pillars - I'm not sure what kind of car they came from, but similar single pole switches are easy to find and are cheap & reliable. I spliced / soldered a diode into each of the three circuits per side, spliced the three (per side) into a single wire and connected it to the single pole switch. Works like a charm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...