Shakadula Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 I have a 67 GS 400 with drum brakes in the rear. I have never changed out brakes before. Anyone got pictures and/or step by step instructions for a dummy? The Service Manual assumes I know what I'm doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Whenever I do rear drum brakes on a car that I'm unfamiliar with, I always do one at a time, so I can refer to the other side if I get lost. Take some pictures also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adam_knox Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Hey Shakadula, Might want to check your local library. Many times they've got a dusty book that generally covers your year/era. Good for first timers to kinda get a peak at. Don't forget to get some brake cleaner (comes in a spray can). Clean pad surface and drum before you re-assemble. When you put new shoes on, don't push your brake pedal down all the way if you haven't put the drums back on...you'll most likely pop the boot. Oh, and don't forget to but the bolts back on the tire..forgot to do that once! But definatly do one at a time, and check to see that your brake drums are smooth, otherwise they'll eat up your shoes. Good luck, have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave@Moon Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 There are tow sources you should look for. One is a general car maintenance manual that describes basic systems and procedeures. Books like Auto Repair for Dummies or The Big Book of Auto Repair are good for basic procedural information.Next you want to look for a Chilton/Motor/Clymer/Haynes manual written specifically for your car. (Actually they're written for a range of cars over years or similar models.) Unlike factory shop manuals, they are written with the home mechanic in mind. I think you'll find their procedural write ups far more easy to follow than the factory manual. Everyone has their own favorites, but I've always preferred the Clymer and Haynes books. They tend to be the more detailed and the most specifically focussed (covering the fewest years/models).With books from these two categories in hand I think you'll find it to be a relatively easy process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 All these suggestions are very valuable. Truth is, drum brakes aren't very high-tech, but they work great, and are nearly bullet-proof (when done correctly). You can do this job in your driveway with great success. Remember not to block your other cars in. You will need one to have your drums turned at the auto parts store.Safely, hoist the rear of your car and put jack stands under the frame. Remove both rear tires and drums, and inspect for drum wear. Grooves, taper, or egg-shaped, requires drum turning or replacement. Do it now.When you get back home, bust out the new shoes and pay close attention to the length of the linings. The primary brake shoe is the front shoe and normally has a slightly shorter lining than the secondary shoe. The secondary shoe is the rear shoe and has the largest lining surface area. Match them with the old shoes before you remove any parts.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 58Mustang</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Take some pictures also</div></div> Take ten close-up pictures from many angles. Digital cameras are a Godsend!INSPECT EVERYTHING. Use all your senses while inspecting the hose for cracks. Yes, you have one. It's usually in the middle, above your axle gear. If you see witness marks from leaks, buy new parts. Rebuild kits (or new cylinders) and a hose are cheap. This is one area you don't want to skimp on. If your brake fluid is more than three years old, bleed your system properly using FRESH DOT-3 brake fluid. Always throw the old fluid out because it sucks up water faster than a scotch-&-water.After you finally put the drums and tires back on, if the shoes are all the way collapsed, hand-spin the wheel while you adjust the shoes back out. When you feel a little resistance, stop adjusting. Only depend on self-adjusters after your hand-adjustment is 'close enough.' Then, the self-adjusters will pick up the slack on their own. If you don't have self adjusters, re-adjust your new brakes after the first week, and again in another month. Your shoes will nicely arc themselves to your drums during the 'break-in' period. Don't baby, but go easy on the brakes until then.I left out things you should find in any good repair manual. Don't be intimidated or overwhelmed. When you are done, you will have renewed confidence in knowing your brakes are done right, and no corners were cut. Doing this job yourself should save you hundreds of bucks. Once you do your first brake job, I guarantee you will do more.Hope this helps. - Dave Dare Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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