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1958 Limited Four Door Riviera


Smartin

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You're probably right about the primer "look" ...I wonder how often (if ever) points are deducted for having a black painted floor, though.

I nearly finished stripping the right side of the roof today...took me almost 4 hours just to get that far. I had to finish up early this afternoon...going to the St. Louis Symphony this evening. They're playing the music of John Williams...should be cool.

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Yes. I am staring at a 47 Super with 16"wheels, and I can't see the floor when looking from the side or the front. The back is visible (kinda) but the gas tank, exhaust pipe, etc. is what they should be looking at. Body color would be considered over-restoration.

I am NOT telling anybody to do it incorrectly, just stating that IN MY OPINION, most likely black is acceptable. My Special got a Senior with a Krylon Black floor FWIW.

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Rob:

That is what I did to mine. - Dan

Hey, I'll bet if we analyzed the "primer" on the bottom of most high-point Buicks, we'd find a carefully crafted ruse of base-coat/clear-coat, dumbed down to look like red-oxide primer. It's like the Bare Metal finish that Eastwood sells; I actually like the idea of faux-painting things like suspension bits that weren't originally painted at all. They look so nice after they're wire-wheeled, it's a shame to hit them with black Tremclad.

It's good to see you back in the garage. I was afraid that "we" weren't getting anything done, Buick-wise. Keep it up so I don't feel so lazy.

post-54279-143138784134_thumb.jpg

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Guest Rob McDonald

DAN, that will look smashing with a black frame, too. However, you couldn't bring yourself to accurately overspraying the body colour onto the edges, could you? To heck with judging points; if painting the underbody of your car plaid makes you happy, go for it!

If my Buick ever gets out into the daylight, I'm searching out some mud puddles. I'll want to hide the fact that I never crawled under the car with a wirebrush and spray bombs. "Greasy side down", lads.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest 4 bufords

can't wait to see this land barge finished adam you are doing a wonderful job,makes me really want to get back to my 57 super 53 good luck 4 bufords from ct

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Looking sweet there Adam! It really is a good feeling when you get that primer down over the bare metal, isn't it! Can't wait until you throw some paint on it.

Just for grins, how did you paint the roof and did you use a HVLP spray gun. If so, what kind? Also, did you do the primer in your garage? Thanks.

Edited by 1957buickjim
more questions... (see edit history)
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When I first saw your car Adam, I thought, wow, this is a huge job. It will take forever. And now you're almost ready for the inaugeral spin around the block. Gotta hand it to you, you are the man!!! Very nice!

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When I first saw your car Adam, I thought, wow, this is a huge job. It will take forever. And now you're almost ready for the inaugeral spin around the block. Gotta hand it to you, you are the man!!! Very nice!

I just need to add brake fluid, a steering wheel, and a milk crate:cool:

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Guest 534dr98

Do you intend on a body off restoration? You could easily spend 15K just on the chrome and stainless restoration. I am just about finished mine, 53 Olds 98,4dr. I love the car but what I can get for it in no way justifies the expense, and I did most of it myself with the exception of having someone paint it. In my opinion, these cars should get just as much as the muscle cars of the 60s. they cost far more to restore and are much more rare but unfortunately thats not what brings in the money. Good luck.

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The body has been off, and is back on after the chassis, drivetrain, and body underside were restored.

I've begun the process of having the chrome redone, and I am slowly feeding parts to them. I just sent the second batch of parts last week. I will be doing the stainless restoration myself.

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Geeze, was that you that robbed the Bank here recently?

Good one Stealthbob! Especially with the question I'm about to ask Adam.

About your chroming, do you have a good shop to do your pot metal repair / chroming? My Limited & Roadmaster trunk pieces will need rechroming and while I have a shop up here in Canada, have heard that work (pot metal) is expensive.

Have you had yours done yet? If so how did it turn out?

Looking forward to seeing pictures of your tail light bars.

I would appreciate contact information and see what I can afford. PM me if you like.

Doug

BCA# 35039

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I'm sure you are aware that POT metal is very difficult to deal with. If the piece has any detail, well, often it is either lost of reduced in definition.

Most shops are doing their very best, NOT, TO DEAL WITH IT.

I have heard for example that a 41 grill can run as much as $2,000.00.

I wish you well,

Dale in Indy

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Every chrome shop I have talked to over the years has said the same thing. You have to grind the chrome off of pot metal, and that's where you lose the detail. Sure they can put it back with lots of copper and nickel coats, and sanding/filing, but like Bill said, IT'S EXPENSIVE, it takes lots of time, and that's money.

Take for example a 41 grill center piece, Lots of detail there, and you tell me how you will remove the old chrome without losing some of the sharp edges, and impressions? I have seen several center sections, and compared to an original, well you can see and feel the difference. The nice thing about pot metal, it allowed for intricate pieces, but over time we all know that pitting occurs, and there lies the problem.

Dale in Indy

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Doug, the taillight louvers that were on the car were really really really really bad. I sold them on ebay and found another set that are somewhat better than yours, but still have a little pitting. I'm actually tempted to just run them as they are, but I'd like to see them perfect. The outer taillight bezels on the other hand, are pretty ugly. I can't wait to have those repaired.

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Guest Rob McDonald

ADAM, this is very second hand but I was told a long time ago that pits in pot metal (an alloy of zinc and aluminum, lead, and/or copper) (maybe tin, too) can be repaired, one by one, before the piece goes to the plating shop. Story goes that each pit is the opening, through the chrome surface, of a little bitty corroded "cavern" in the metal. You drill out the hole with your smallest Dremel bit, to where you're just exposing clean metal.

The filling part is tricky, I was told. Somehow - sorry, I don't remember all of this part - you very carefully solder-in the pot metal holes with pure zinc. The zinc melts at just under 500C, which is a bit less than the melting point of pot metal. Let the piece get too hot and, bloop, you've got a disappointing and possibly very expensive puddle on your workbench.

Again, I've forgotten what happens next. Once all the pits are drilled out and filled (just like tooth cavities, come to think of it), does the plating shop then grind off the chrome, copper, and nickel plating, thereby ruining all of your fine pre-work and obliterating the casting details? Don't know.

Has anybody out there actually done this or am I just falsely remembering a vivid dream?

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Adam, now that I have a digital picture of this lens/chrome might email the shop up here and see if they will give me some kind of estimate and see...... otherwise I'm not sure replacing them is going to be easy or cheap either so....... one step at a time. My outer taillight bezels fortunately only have a few bubbles yet the trunk handle/bar is bubbled all across (go figure). Don't imagine finding another good one will be easy for these model specific pieces.

Think the shop that did your bumper wedges would be able to quote based on a few good pictures?

DEI (that's "god" in Latin), does Mrs. Dei know that you had car parts on the dining room table?

Fellow Canuck Rob

DEI Just happens to be my initials. If you asked the Mrs. (`god` in Latin) she would say it definitely does not apply. AND.... if Adam can have car parts on his pool table I guess the dining room table should be OK. ha ha

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I have played with the process and it is very technique dependent...

"Muggy Weld" does work but requires extreme attention to the degrease part of the equation and removing the depths of each and every pit that is in the part.

I plan on working at it some more but will likely pay to have a pro do my parts.

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Guest Rob McDonald

Pot Metal Repair and Restoration - wow, if it's really this easy, why isn't everyone doing it? (to paraphrase Mudbone)

Watching this video again, I noticed this statement, "The *best* option for removing most chrome is to ask your plater to "dip and strip" your part. Most platers will provide this for no fee or a nominal fee, because they want your return business."

Does that ring true, guys? I seem to recall that removing the plating is also very finicky, that the normal process for sheet metal will ruin pot metal, as in "bloop". Advice?

Edited by Rob McDonald (see edit history)
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Muggy weld does work but the pros prefer to lay in lead on top of copper....pit by pit by pit.

Either way it is not easy.......

That being said, Muggy Weld has its place. I have used it myself but lack the technique to be good at making it a viable alternative to pot metal restoration.

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Guest Rob McDonald

Stealthyrobert, I get it. In theory, we could also drill and fill our own teeth but most of us choose to use dentists, instead. That's a good thing, too, because subsequently wealthy dentists restore and drive some of the coolest old cars. With great pot metal!

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Well when time is not a factor theoretically anything can be accomplished.....

In my opinion Adam has performed far beyond the level and patience that most of us would ever dare to complete....seems to me that the adventures of a "Muggy Weld" may be in this man's "Wheel House". ...or maybe not

Far be it for us to say that something is not feasible...after all, all one has to do is refresh this thread and look at the enormous task of metal repair that was done to start this project in the first place.

Its enough to scare the pants of any restorer on these forums....just like pot metal repair does.

In the end I just love to see guys innovate and do the things that once were thought to be impossible or infeasible.

Keep on doing what you do Adam....

Edited by stealthbob (see edit history)
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