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1936 Special Ignition switch


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I'm wondering if I have all the parts or the capability of repairing the ignition switch on my 36 Special.

The lock core has been brutally gouged out so that the lever now swings free without need of a key. I looked at how you might take it apart to put a replacement lock cylinder in but it wasn't immediately obvious how you would do that.

The whole lock assembly is held on to the steering column with a non-slotted bolt on the left side and a bolt coming down from the console area on the right. There is also an open threaded area below the bolt coming from the console area; it isn't clear to me if this is supposed to be a single bolt going from the bottom to the top or if this might be a different bolt that is missing.

This investigation led me to wonder how the wires would be run from the ignition switch assembly. I see that on the back of the assembly that there are two very small threaded holes and it makes me wonder if there should be an electrical switch housing bolted onto the lever housing. My books aren't clear and since it was this way when I acquired the car I am left wondering how this should actually be and if I have all the parts to return it to original.

I think a good locksmith is in order to remove the busted lock cylinder but I wondered how someone would do that. I did find what appears to be a very small pin on the lock assembly that is right next to the lever you turn to "on" or "off". I suspect that this pin is probably how you get the cylinder out but I'm not sure. Would this pin be drilled out?

Opinions or ideas would be greatly welcome.

Jeff

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Jeff,

Your ignition switch/steering lock should be the same as on my 1934.

The key operates the steering lock and is not necessary if the steering and ignition are in the unlocked position ( i.e. the ignition lever will turn up and down freely ).

There should be an electrical switch attached to the back of the assembly by the two threaded holes you have identified. The pin that protrudes between these two holes is attached to the on/off lever and should move as you move the lever to the on or off position. This pin is the activating pin for the elecrical switch.

To remove the lock cylinder you actually need the key ( depress and turn anti clockwise from memory ) in the absence of a key this will be a locksmith task.

The bracket is held to the dash by 2 bolts. One has a threaded hole in the bracket, I think the other is a bolt with a nut.

The bracket is secured to the steering column by a single bolt on the left side, these are a security type bolt with the head snapped off at the factory. I had to drill mine and remove it with an easy out. I replaced it with a normal hex head bolt.

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Check the glove box for the electrical switch. Surely the previous owner would not have simply tossed it. It's black, about 1.25 inches square and less than 1/2 inch thick and doesn't look too "electrical" at first glance. I haven't seen the electrical switch offered in any of the aftermarket houses that I know of.

Good luck,

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Jeff, check out ebay item 190235651823. There appears to be an electrical ignition switch amongst some other parts. It is the piece that is setting on what looks to be a backing plate to a rearview mirror. Hurry, hurry, not much time left.

Joel

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Jeff, I have a 38 switch that you can have if it is the same thing.

It is still on the The bracket for the steering column that I have removed from the column by cutting the bolt with a thin cutoff wheel. The rest of the bolt can be drilled out very easily.

Check your messages.

I will be going on vacation at the end of the month.

Roger

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