Where the heck is everybody?

[Guest imported_Speedster]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packin31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

How are you feeling? </div></div>

one of the pills they gave me has made me feel weak and a little dizzy.

we think it's the dehydration (water) pill, which i probably don't need anyway. so i'm going to stop taking those everyday and see if i feel better, since my blood-pressure is down to normal level now. i have a little more control of my arm now but not enough to do anything with it.

man, this is aggravating!

Thanks again for the Great gift!

[Packard8]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> man, this is aggravating! </div></div>

Wishing you a quick recovery but be patient and don't push it too hard. You know what they say....

"You can't keep a good man down!!"

[34PackardRoadsta]

Rick,

Glad to hear your BP is looking normal. That is great news. Keep manipulating that arm (force it to grasp stuff and move it, using your other arm). The more sensory input your brain has that the arm is doing something functional, the quicker will be your recovery.

Tom

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Having some control is a really good sign from what I understand. So some physical progress, couple that with a positive mental outlook & determination and you will get there, Rick.

Next summer we are all bringing cars down to you for fixing!

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Looks like most of the 'Old Codgers' have forgot how to use their Keyboards again ???

[tbirdman]

I didn't think you want to hear about my problems

OK do you want to hear about my Packard hell day this past Sunday. Drove to a show about 50 miles away. When I raised the hood I was leaking pretty bad from the water pump. The guy next to me had a big crescent wrench, but tightening it just made it worse. I figure I'm going to get towed home.

I guy comes by (And a coincidenace he's a 37 Studabaker owner) and has packing with him. I do an emergency repair. Getting back to Portland, I start get symptons of vapor lock. The water pump has start leaking again. I let the motor cool and add water. I did limp home.

I figure the worse is over. I talked to a friend later that day who told me about another common friend's problems this weekend including a flat tire. I thought to myself, at least I didn't get a flat. Spoke too soon. Went down to the garage and had a flat.

So this week, I will be fixing a flat (with the SOB split ring) and repacking the water pump. The flat was caused by a wheel wrap that had a piece of metal rubbing against the tube.

I guess the blessing was the flat was in the garage and I didn't have to get towed.

[1935Packard]

I had a scare on Sunday, too. I was driving my '49 Cadillac back from the Cadillac Grand National Show in New Jersey and I stopped by the side of the highway to lower the top. For reasons I haven't quite figured out yet, the hydraulic system (that runs the power top) attached to the cowl inside the engine bay caught fire, which I realized after getting back in the car and driving about 20 yards. Fortunately I was in a safe spot, pulled over, and put the fire out quickly with an extinguisher. But it was a long wait for a flatbed by the side of the highway -- and it's a long wait now to hear from the shop that works on that car about how bad the damage is. As long as we're all safe and sound, that's what matters, as I see it....

[Guest imported_Speedster]

'ARE WE HAVIN' FUN YET'

Sorry to hear about all the problems.

[Tom M]

I hear you all about problem. The primer I sprayed last August on the main body panels is peeling right off. So I spent all weekend scraping the roof/ sanding/ wiping with w&g remover and then did some filler work.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Dang, what type primer did you use? Was it epoxy?

Was there something left under primer?

[Earl B.]

As my friend Ron and I have often talked about, there is a 'Packard curse'. I've been going to ask about it on here and figured everyone would think I was a bit addlepated....after the last few posts, I don't have to ask... there really is such a thing....B

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Yes, It's similar to the Chevvy-curse, Ford-curse, Buick-curse and many many Others.

Some Worse than others.

[Earl B.]

Rick, I know you've had some medical problems of late... you wouldn't even believe me if I told you all I've been through since owning the Packard, and lately, the curse has been on Ron.... This is just medical things I know.. plus all the other car problems going on.... I think maybe the Packard curse is worstestest of all....B

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Sorry to hear of your problems.

In my case, I just screwed-up and didn't get medication for high blood pressure, like I knew I needed to. Since it made me feel weak when I tried taking pills about 8 years ago. So it's my own fault, not a fault of the Packard hobby that I've enjoyed, very much, for Many years.

Any time you're dealing with ageing, complicated machines like antique automobiles there's going to be many failures and problems, but that's all 'Part of the Fun' for me.

If someone doesn't enjoy dealing with the many problems that are found with any old car, that is driven, then it's probably Not the best hobby for them to be involved in.

[Guest BigKev]

Did you use a DTM (Direct to Metal) primer, or did you use "etch" before you sprayed the primer. If the primer was not DTM, and you didnt use "etch" then that may be why the primer is peeling.

[tbirdman]

Bad week. Just found out my oldest sister (61) died after back surgery. I wasn't close to her as she estranged herself from the family, but I'm flying cross country for the funeral to pay my respects.

[Tom M]

Ken,

Sorry to hear about the lose of your sister.

Rick,

Yes I used SPI Epoxy primer. But before spraying it I used some PICKLEX to rid some rusting that started after cleaning off the WD-40 with water and ammonia. I should have read the tech sheet for the SPI Epoxy before spraying. Written in bold letters NEVER use SPI Epoxy over a Soda Blasted vehicle, Acid etch/wash primers, Rust Converter or other Metal Treatments. NEVER!

I planned on sanding down the epoxy in spots to do filler/body work but was not expecting having to strip it all back off.

[mrpushbutton]

You can use PPG DP-90 after soda blasting, it's pretty easy on prep, you just need to do some kind of rust removal and prep before application.

[Tom M]

Was thinking I may need to go another route for the first stage of priming because of the issues I have had. I have another gallon of SPI Epoxy coming which I will probably use for a sealer after I figure out what I can use on top of the Picklex.

John, do you know if PPG DP-90 can be used over a metal prep?

[mrpushbutton]

Absolutely! I always wiped down the metal prepped area with DX-330 wax and grease remover just before painting to insure there are no oil spots, not even finger print oils on the metal. It's remarkably unfussy.

Then on to K-36 (or equivalent) surface build-up primer for rusted metal, and yes, body filler when necessary.

[Restorer32]

Wipe down twice with DX-330 (use plenty), seal with DP-90 ($141/gal), primer with K-36($152/gal)using K201 Primer Surfacer Catalyst ($64/qt) followed by the filler of your choice. Pay attention to the instructions as to how long you have to topcoat the DP-90 before it is necessary to scuff. Make sure your mixing containers were not made using a silicon mold release. Never store parts in plastic bags unless you are sure no silicon mold release is present. Same with masking plastic. Silicon is the enemy.

[Tom M]

Restorer32,

Will DX-330 or any other types of w&g remover remove the metal prep stuff I used?

Thanks for the info on the products to use.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

I use Acetone ($15.gal) to clean completely. Needs to be done at least several hours before painting, to let dry completely. Then wipe down with Isopropyl-alcohol ($4.qt) just before painting (to remove dust and finger-prints). They work great and no need for expensive cleaners.

BTW- For those that don't know, Acetone is pronounced Ass-a-tone.

[Tom M]

Thanks all for the advice. I don't want to have to go thru this again.

Rick,

Have you had any adhesion problems using ACETONE?

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Acetone is one of the Best and Safest solvents there is. It's probably the main ingrediant in the expensive paint-store solvents.

As long as it has completely evaporated before applying paint, there's No problems.

If fillers (Bondo, etc.) have been used then it's best to let it sit overnight, since Acetone will soak into filler slightly and takes longer to evaporate. That's true with any solvent.

[Restorer32]

Isopropyl Alcohol is something like 90% water? We wouldn't use it.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

It would really be best if solvents are Not applied to fillers, if possible.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Restorer32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Isopropyl Alcohol is something like 90% water? We wouldn't use it. </div></div>

It can be purchased in different percentages (low at drug-stores). What I use when painting is 70% alcohol. It is also available at 90% and 100% alcohol.

I've used 90% but it cost more and the 70% works Great. (removes oily finger-prints with one wipe)

[Restorer32]

Yep, you are right, 70% or better. I was wrong. Still not sure I would risk using it under expensive sealers and primers. DX330 isn't that expensive. Personally I wouldn't risk $300 in sealer and primer to save $10, not to mention the labor to redo everything. Learned that lesson the hard way long ago. Use the minimun # of products reccommended by the paint supplier from the bare metal out. Don't mix brands, find a brand you like and use their products exclusively. Recoat times are critical as is shelf life of products, especially hardeners and catalysts.

[Tom M]

Last year when I did filler work I stripped off the epoxy in that area before applying the filler and then sprayed with fresh epoxy hopefully that filler has held.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Restorer32</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Still not sure I would risk using it under expensive sealers and primers. </div></div>

That's the thing, I don't use Expensive sealers and primers, Either.

I use inexpensive stuff, that works and looks Great. LOL

Sorry about that, just havin' Fun!

[Restorer32]

I almost typed "different strokes for different folks" but that wouldn't be appropriate given your recent experience. Glad you're back in the swing of things. A good attitude goes a long way. I have seen great paint jobs done using inexpensive materials and I have seen lousy jobs done using the best materials. Years ago gasoline was used as paint thinner and it worked ok. Lots of ways to get to a similar end result.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packin31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Last year when I did filler work I stripped off the epoxy in that area before applying the filler and then sprayed with fresh epoxy hopefully that filler has held. </div></div>

I've found that you can apply filler over epoxy-primer (since it is hard and durable), as long as primer is lightly sanded first, which doesn't work too well with other primers.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Restorer32</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I have seen great paint jobs done using inexpensive materials and I have seen lousy jobs done using the best materials. Lots of ways to get to a similar end result. </div></div>

Yes, Very True.

[tbirdman]

Tom,

Why don't you get an inexpensive blasting outfit to remove any rust that may develop?

[Tom M]

Ken,

That is a great idea but where would I do the blasting? My drive is way to steep to be pushing the car in and out of the garage.

When I originally had the car blasted I thought I had the lower half of the engine sealed well but you know with blasting it still finds it way in. So I sent the lower half out to Harts for cleaning and to have the crank cleaned up. It is now reinstalled so blasting it again scares me.

What I am going to do from here on out is just strip it in smaller section clean it well do filler work if needed and then recoat with epoxy.

[mrpushbutton]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Restorer32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yep, you are right, 70% or better. I was wrong. Still not sure I would risk using it under expensive sealers and primers. DX330 isn't that expensive. Personally I wouldn't risk $300 in sealer and primer to save $10, not to mention the labor to redo everything. Learned that lesson the hard way long ago. Use the minimun # of products reccommended by the paint supplier from the bare metal out. Don't mix brands, find a brand you like and use their products exclusively. Recoat times are critical as is shelf life of products, especially hardeners and catalysts.</div></div>

Very, very good advice, this. Pick one brand and family of product in that brand and use that only.

[Guest BigKev]

When I was involved in my auto-body class, we did a show truck for a magazine. We took all the old paint off with a D/A, and then scuffed the entire truck with 100 grit on a D/A. Pulled out all the dents. Degreased, then Evercoat Rage filler directly on the bare metal. Once all the panels were flat and level, we then wipe the truck down again with degreaser, and the sprayed Valspar DTM primer. Blocked it, used light weight filler where required, primer again, and and round of blocking. Repeat, spot priming where needed. Once everything was prefectly blocked, then you can over-reduce the Valspar, and it makes it's own sealer. The it was ready for base coat.

Our teacher was Jerry Seivers, who runs a pretty well know shop in So Calif called "Paint 'n Place". We has been featured on a couple episodes of Overhauling (He did the bodywork and paint on John Force's School Bus project), and he also does many of the NHRA cars here in So Calif. He was also one of the early adopters of Water Based/Water Bourne painting. Which is now required in So Cal start Jan 1, 2009 for Base/Clear painting.

He swears by the Valspar DTM as he has never had any issues with it in all the years he has used it. Also because it doesnt require an "Etch" and makes it's own sealer, it ends up being less expensive then some of the other brands.

Now we sprayed the entire truck using SATAs, so not sure if that helped also!

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Kev,

DTM is an Epoxy primer, correct?

I think I remember someone mentioning DTM-2000 epoxy?

[Guest BigKev]

DTM stands for "Direct to Metal". It other words it does not require an etching agent like PCL primer does.

From the Valspar website:

<span style="font-weight: bold">DTM 2000 Series

DTM 2000 Series-Direct To Metal 2K Primers were formulated with a hybrid of epoxy and acrylic polymers, which provide excellent adhesion, good corrosion resistance, productive dry times, and ease of sanding. These primers emit very low amounts of Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs), Hazardous Air Polluting Solvents (HAPS), and contain no isocyanates.

DTM 2001 White

DTM 2004 Medium Gray

DTM 2008 Black

DTM A Activator

171174 Urethane Reducers

X01 Fast Exempt Reducer

Mix four (4) parts DTM 2000 Series Primer to one (1) part DTM A Activator and reduce with one (1) part reducer for sealing. (4:1:1) For 2.1 VOC Compliance: Use X01 Reducer for 2.1 VOC compliance or Urethane Reducers. When used as a filler, lower amounts of reducer are required.</span>