TexRiv_63

Vintage Air A/C Conversion for 1st Gen Rivieras

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As I recall I ran the ducting but I left the dash completely apart until I had it charged. And I did have a leak...

Yeah.

That is the finger crossed part!

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I hope you can return the ones you don't use for credit!

I made a map of what I wanted. At the most, he should be returning two, and even then, I may buy em from him for future jobs...

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I have been at Mike's this morning. While Mike was running Heater hoses I was replacing the fan clutch. Not a hard job just a pain to do as you have to figure out how to hold the pulley from turning.

Below is a picture of how Mike ran the heater lines in the engine compartment. BTW, 2 sizes of heater hose was used 3/4 " and 5/8's ". The nipple coming off the crossover is 5/8ths while the one coming from the water pump was 3/4. Good thing the make a adapter to step them down.

Now to trim bushes around the house....

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Looking good.

More progress in Mike's shop this weekend than mine.

I am glad I am not tearing apart a 1st Gen Riv dash.

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Here is a story about hoses:

When you buy the "universal kit", you need to have the ends crimped on just to begin the project. You drive (let's say) 1/2 hour. Drop them off because the shop can't get to them right away. Drive home 1/2 hour. Drive back and forth to pick them up. You have two hours before you can even start the project. Then you measure, cut the hose to length, "clock the other end", repeat two hour drive time, etc.

I thought Bill was crazy to buy the more expensive EZ-Lock system. Wow, was I wrong!

It took me about two or three hours to get the heater hoses run. Hell, those are easy, right?

It took me less than three hours to do ALL of the AC lines.

Check it out:

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Underdash connections made:

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Just a little more information about EZ Lock.... Its made by a company called Eaton and and Mike said you can do this in the comfort of your garage.

The hoses are about 1/2 the size of regular barrier hose. 3/4's of an inch for a number 10 hose. This makes routing in crowded under dash areas easier and twisting and turning it is easier.

Yes, a bit more expensive but as Mike describes, it beats the alternatives.

For More information:

http://www.thecatalogroom.com/A-HC-TI-0001-E-Eaton-Aeroquip-EZClip-CONV.pdf

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That looks like a great system for the hoses, wish they would have had that when I did mine.

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They may have changed the design of the compressor since I did my install, but I seem to remember the compressor had to be clocked where both hoses were on top. It makes for a very tall unit to get under the hood. I bought the compressor with the rear exits rather than the side.

Rick

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Thanks Rick.

I actually have had a couple of people ask me about that.

When I installed one on my 55 wagon, I made triple-sure that I could mount it sideways, and I also made sure about this one. The important thing to note is that the oil fill hole can't be more than 90 degrees (in other words, upside down).

Here are the instructions.

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I got the radiator back in today. I don't know if you guys have done this, but I cut a couple of pieces of 3/8" hose and installed it over the tabs for the fan shroud and squished it up into the oval holes. Works great. No more shroud shake.

I also got the engine part wired. I pushed the Red power wire through the speedo cable hole and the Blue compressor wire through the antenna wire hole. Hooked the power wire to the original AC stud on the drivers side.

I used the blower fuse as the switched lead. A 5 amp AGC fuse fit perfectly which is what it calls for.

No pics today but there are only two wires in the engine compartment for the whole shebang. Everything else is connected in the console area. Waiting on the plate from my fabricator.

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Its Friday, I am at work but I got the controls and panel back for the fabricator last night. Looks good.

Mike texted me that he has heat and blower today. He is missing a harness and he is on the way to get it and then we may (better) have cold air.

As long as I had this whole section apart I am also replacing all the wood trim.

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Got it charged today. Going to start installing Bill's wood kit and reassembling the interior tomorrow.

Cold enough?

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Got it charged today. Going to start installing Bill's wood kit and reassembling the interior tomorrow.

Cold enough?

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Now that's what I call layin' chilly right there. Bill won't need a cooler to keep his homebrew cold, just set 'em next to the vents.

Is that R12 or R134a in there? Or did you already say that in an older post and I have HUA?

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134a.

I used about two cans, plus a partial with dye in it.

Just in case...

Yeah, Bill wanted to steal a vent and put it in the glove box for beverage cooling purposes. Like a Lexus ;)

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Warning. A little Dynamat is good. Putting it where the factory didn't on the dash pad makes the pad impossible to install. I didn't mark where the old stuff was and I was a bit too over-zealous when insulating. Ouch! My palms hurt from beating on the pad until I realized it just wasn't gonna fit.

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You may need to bend this piece of sheet metal to make your ducts fit. I then used silver foil HVAC tape to further secure the ducts and prevent air leaks.

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Is the glove box lost entirely? Or can you retain a shallow portion of it?

I was able to reuse the entire glovebox!

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It also latches well with some adjustments made. Anybody jealous? ;)

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Jealous, no. Envious - you damn betcha.

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Envious.

Better word.

At the least, maybe your courtesy (map?) light isn't all cracked up!

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Everything is back together!

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It even lights up. Plus a new wood kit installed.

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Nice!!!

I gave up on the Wildcat at noon, too humid to work out there today.I need an air conditioner out there.

Truly a beautiful job Mike. Great looking ride Bill.

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Thanks Paul.

You northern piney rednecks are more hearty when it comes to cold weather, but this is the thermometer in my garage at 3:00

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