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tbirdman

coolant flow

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Tom,

Hate to say it, but mine didn't even look close to as bad as your looks. Mine had zero rust.

Ken

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Yes, with that much rust on the outside you can Imagine how much is built up on the inside of head.

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Ah, great. And I was so excited that I got the head bolts off without a single one breaking! Well, I will try again tomorrow after I let the PB continue it's work.

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On the subject of refilling heat gauge bulbs.

First you need to know how they work. The bulb is filled with ether, when it gets hot it sends pressure up the tube which pushes the gauge needle over. Ether boils at a low temp.

To refill the bulb here is what you have to do. You need a container of ether, a cup of hot water and a cup of ice water.

Stick the bulb in the hot water. Stick the end of the tube in the ether. When the bubbles stop, move the bulb to the ice water. When the bulb gets cold it will suck up some of the ether. It helps if the ether is higher than the bulb.

Keep moving the bulb from the hot to the cold until it is full. At this point no more bubbles come out.

Now you can solder the bulb back on the gauge. The system must be perfectly sealed.

There is more to fixing a mechanical heat gauge but that is how they refill them.

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Look- here's what should work. Loosen and remove the lower hose connection from the radiator. Loosen and remove the upper hose from the radiator. You have removed the clean radiator from the equation. Start the car up and let the water pump circulate the water/coolant through the engine till it pukes out. Turn the heater on so flow circulates into and through the heater hoses. Put a garden hose with the water on in the upper hose and let the engine's water pump circulate the water till it is clear. Then you know the block is clean.

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Twitch,

No heater. I have not started the car since last October and right now the the radiator is not connected. I wasn't planning on starting the engine to flush everythhing out. Most of the coolant should be drained as I removed the head and the water jacket, and water pump. I was going to run a water hose into the lower inlet and then wait until it the outlet became clear.

I'm rigging a pvc pipe and with hoses setup so I don't get water all over the garage/car.

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I located from a CCCA member one of those units that some mentioned that you stick water and a air hose into. When you press a handle, the air presure sends a shock wave of air through the system. The block was very clean so I did not get much out.

However I did notice that the water pump was dripping around the water pump very slightly. The water pump had been built about 10 years ago and wasn't leaking when I started this project 6 months ago. Should I try to just tighten the packing nut a little to stop the leak?

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If the leak you see is at the shaft, then the packing either needs adjustment (tighten the packing nut slightly)or replacement. The original packing, split rings, was graphited cord and is still readily available; you can also just wind in some plumbers graphited cord. Though it's appealing at first thought, I'd avoid teflon, it can damage the shaft. Tighten just enough to the point where you few get a drops season; overtightening wears the shaft unnecessarily. You may need a pump wrench to get convenient access to the packing nut, its a common industrial supply item and also repros of the Packard originals are available.

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