Guest drtoddh Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 Hello Everyone. I am going to see what's going on with my window motor and regulator on my 89 on the passenger side. I can't seem to find detailed directions on how to get the door panel off. I think you start with unbolting the "pull bar" but after that I'm not quite sure. Given that they are old parts I don't want to start pulling and crack something. If someone would give me step by steps I would appreciate it, I know a lot of people have done that with ease. Also if anyone has any suggestions as to what I might need before I get in there. The window motor sounds fine. The window goes about 1/4 the way down without problems then makes a loud noise like it is jumping gears and stops there. It also goes up fine from there but then will again make that loud, awful noise when it reaches the top if I keep the up button pushed. I'm hoping it's just something repairable. Any suggestions on those two items are appreciated, ThanksTodd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 All you need for tools are a Phillips screw driver, a regular screw driver, and a # 10 socket.Pry off the caps on the ends of the door pulls, they are held on with little tabs on the top and bottom of them.Remove the door pull with the 2 # 10 bolts.Remove the Phillips screw behind the door handle and then the black plastic cup and then remove the Phillips screw that holds the door lock switch and then the switch from it's connector. When replacing it make sure the stud lines up with the slot on the back of the switch assembly.With the help of a flat screw driver carefully push the seat switches on the door panel arm rest towards the back of the door and then you will see that the front of the switch mechanism can be lifted up and then forward and away from the arm rest. Remove the gray connector from the switch by prying a little at a time at both ends. The connector is just held on by pressure on the contacts. If you fold back the rubber protector a little you will see where the connector attaches to the switch. Be careful to not short out the contacts when prying it off.The door panel is held on by some plastic studs, so by starting at the bottom and working the bottom and both side the you can pull the panel away from the door. When you have the panel loose from the door do not let it drop to the ground but reach behind and unplug the connector from the light on the rear of the panel and also pull out carefully the single connector that goes directly into the light body.When the motor runs fine but the window goes up and down some but then makes noise and quits moving, the regulator portion of the motor/regulator has stripped teeth and needs to be replaced.I have several Reatta parts cars and have a good motor/regulator available. I can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_JohnW Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 Too bad there are no videos showing repairs like this.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jcc3inc Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 Gentlemen,Attached are (3) pix I took while "inspecting" my door panels. Hope they are of value. They are of the panel viewed from the front showing location of all the retaining plastic rods, one from the backside, and one of the dandelion puller used to help remove the panel plus panel grommets and plastic rods.Regards,Jack C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steveskyhawk Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 Can the lower speaker grill be removed and replaced without removing the whole door panel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 No Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steveskyhawk Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 I suspect about half of those rods break in one r&r.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest drtoddh Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Thanks everyone. Jim, thank you, perfect instructions. I got right in. The only problem was the gray plug for the seat control buttons cracked and was very brittle, but I can fix that. I got to looking at the window and with all the rivets, etc. I don't think I'm going to tackle it. I'm going to see how much to get it fixed at the garage and let it be someone else's headache. I removed the regulator and repaired it from my Aurora and it didn't seem nearly as complicated as the anatomy in this door. But why I've got it open I might as well replace the speakers. Thanks. Todd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Yes, do replace the 5 1/4" speaker. I've replaced unknown many of these speakers in Reatta's and Riviera's. The foam cone support of these speakers disintegrates over time, leaving the cone with no support. Makes for bad sound...I buy my speakers from MCM electronics (mcmelectronics.com). good prices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: harry yarnell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, do replace the 5 1/4" speaker. I've replaced unknown many of these speakers in Reatta's and Riviera's. The foam cone support of these speakers disintegrates over time, leaving the cone with no support. Makes for bad sound...I buy my speakers from MCM electronics (mcmelectronics.com). good prices. </div></div>Harry, which speaker do you purchase from them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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