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1940 Buick jumping out of gear


michel88

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I recently put a 1947 Buick (320 cu in) rebuilt engine in my '40 Roadmaster coupe. I started to rebuild the original engine but found that the block had a crack. I was lucky that a member of my Buick club had a 1947 Roadmaster engine that he sold me and I had this engine rebuilt. This engine is almost identical to the 1940 engine including motor mounts. I also replaced the entire clutch assembly. All work was done by a professional mechanic who is also in my club. The engine runs excellent but now I have a problem. When I let off the gas in high (3rd) gear it jumps out of gear. It did not do this before the engine was replaced. Does anyone know what might be causing this?

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The bell housing was originally mounted to the block ,and then the trans hole was machined. This was to make sure that it was in perfect alignment with the crank. The machines of 60+ years ago were not good enough to make sure that this would happen. The best way to check your Buick is to remove the trans ( I know what a pain that it ) and check the runout with an indicator. I it is not concentric, you can pull the bell housing locator pins and move the bell housing until it is concentric. Bolt it down tight, and then put a tapered dowel in the old holes after reaming the holes.

There may be another answer, but this is the only positive cure I have found.

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Thanks Joe, I was hoping you would reply to this post. I wish the fix wasn't so hard though. One of the jobs I did on this project was to take parts home and clean them. The '47 engine was complete with the bell housing and I am not sure which bell housing was cleaned up and used when we put in the engine but I suspect it was the original '40 bell housing. Do you think if we swapped the bell housings this would solve the problem?

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woody

If you have the bell housing that came off the 47 engine, it should work just fine. The problem with changing the bell housing is that you must pull the flywheel in order to do that. This entails removing the pan and rear main cap ,knocking out the flywheel bolts and in general swearing a LOT!There are housing bolts behind the flywheel, and there is not sufficient room to pull the wheel back to clear the bolts. Originally the housing was bolted on before the crank and flywheel assembly was dropped in.

I wish I had better news, but that is the way it works. You can always hang a weight on the shifter arm, and that will work most of the time.

If I remember right, there is a boss on the drivers side of the housing that has a hole tepped in it on the 40 housing that is not tapped on the later housing. check it out as it is MUCH easier to tap the hole before you mount it.

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