401 Wildcat Oil Change

[Guest vinnyfl]

What oil and filter do you use in your Riv? Mine is a '63 401 Wildcat never rebuilt as far as I see with 56,000 original miles (or 156,000 for all I know). I am torn and not sure what to use. Someone told me to run some 5w-30 in it for a while to clean out the crap and then use a racing oil with a high zinc content. Also, does anyone have the part number cross reference to the oil filters?

What's your take?

Merry Christmas!!

White Christmas probabilities in South Florida: A BIG 0%

[Jim Cannon]

For oil: not so sure running 5W30 will clean anything out. Car was not designed for that oil. I'd be afraid you will cause more harm than good. Just put in fresh oil and let the detergents in there do their thing. Oil with some zinc is good.

Interesting discussion about zinc:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Zinc_Motor_Oils.aspx

Oil filter is AC Delco PF-24. It is a bit smaller than original filter, so oil change with filter will not quite take the 5 qts. of oil that the book says is will. Put in about 4.5 qts to start, run engine for a minute, then stop it and add oil until at the Full line. I think you'll find it does not quite take the 5th quart.

[Guest vinnyfl]

Hi Jim

What oil is recommended? I think I will play it safe.

Thanks for the input.

[RivNut]

Is it Vinny?

The chassis manual calls for 10w-30 for above freezing and 5w-20 for below freezing. My '63 has 197,--- miles on it and I've used 10w-40 most of the time in it.

There was a big discussion on the Nailhead group about the proper oil and there's no consensus. Most of today's oils have the SAE requirements, plus some, for the older engines. If you're really concerned about the necessary zinc in the oil, the Nailheaders recommend that you use Shell's Rotella 10w-40. It's designed for diesels but works in gas motors just as well. I know a guy here locally whose Jeep Cherokee 4.0 Liter in-line six cylinder has over 400,000 miles on it and he uses the Rotella in it. Pretty good testimonial.

On the other hand, a friend of mine had his nailhead rebuilt a few years ago and has used nothing but Mobil 1 synthetic in it. That car has made it cross country a number of times to different ROA annual events.

If you've got access to the internet, go to google.com, type in what you're looking for and read till you're satisfied.

My only real advice about oil changes is to stay away from Fram filters; Fram spends all of its money on advertising and none on product. NAPA filters are good; they're made by Wix. I think that the Wix filters are the original size. While you're on google, do some filter comparisons too.

Ed

[Jim Cannon]

The owners manual calls for 10W30 for use in the temperatures that you will have in Florida. (It calls for other oils where the weather is much colder.) So 10W30 is a good place to start.

You might find, especially if the engine proves to have 150,000 miles (and it might) that you get some oil burning (out the tail pipe) and leaking at the front and rear main bearing seals with 10W30, especially in summer (hot weather) and at high speed. Lifters may also be a little noisier in the summer when hot. If you do, change to slightly thicker oil, like 10W40 (like Ed) or 20W50.

I use 10W30 in Houston in the winter (change in Fall) and 20W50 in the summer (change in Spring). My engine has 96,000 miles on it.

Regardless of miles you put on the car, changing the oil and filter at least once every 6 months is a good plan, to get out moisture and other contaminants.

[steelman]

Ed is absolutely right about the filters. WalMart killed Fram filters when they told Fram to build them cheaper and they could sell sell them to the masses cheaper. Cut a Wix and and a Fram apart and you can see the difference. Good note to all. Thanks, Ed.

[RivNut]

This came across the Yahoo Nailhead forum today. I thought some of you might find it interesting reading. ABSOLUTELY no endorsement here! Just an FYI.

Ed

http://www.wheels.daytondailynews.com/daytondailynews/content/autonews/2007/12/13/MPSWLS1215WOW.html

[DaveB]

Let's put in my 2 cents..Milages on vehicles when I drove them to the junkyard..Bills Salvage,Conesville,Ia

91 Volvo 740 231,000 miles.

Oil:Shell Rottela 10w30 winter,Straight 40 summer.

Filter:Purolator

92 Toyota Tercel 193,000 Miles

Oil;Castrol GTX 10W30 or Shell Rottela 10w30 year round

Filter:Fram Doubleguard w/PTFE(switched to Purolator)

85 Chevy C10 152,000 miles

Oil:Shell Rottela straight 40 summer,10W30 winter

Filter:Champion,Fram,A.C Delco

Personally I am a fan of Shell Rottela.I drive a semi and my current truck is a 2005 Freightliner Century with a 60 Series Detroit rated at 535HP. I got it brand new. It has 373,000 mile on it and during a recent overhead(and to fix a cracked injector cup)the topside looked like new.

Thus far I have had to add oil to it one time between service(oil change's at 25,000 miles intervals).

I figure a oil that delivers that good on a large hard working diesel engine should handle anything our cars can throw at it.