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  • 1 year later...

Hi guys:

I'm new to this, in fact I'm new to the whole web car owners thing, but here goes, treat me gently.

I have a '50 Pontiac 4 door Sedan (post?) It says Silver8Streak on the front fenders, it has the flathead 8 that runs like a top at about 600 rpm. It's all original, a bit beat-up but very restorable. The headliner is all intact but if you touch it, it rips (very fragile). It was originally kind of a creamy yellow-white but I have stripped it to the bare metal. A little cancer around the rear wheelwells but not bad (fixable). The radio trim on the dash says 'Chieftain'. Both tail lights are a bit pushed-in but I'll pull them out, I have new lenses & bezels. The chrome bright work is all slightly pitted. The indian on the hood is the plastic amber one with the light in it. I've seen some that are chrome, I'm still getting into the whole model thing. Oh, and it's a notch-back. I have taken the paint off the radiator tank and polished it up and I think the bright brass is attractive.

Next time I'll put is a couple of pics if I can figure out how to do it.

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  • 1 month later...

HELLO I'M NEW AS WELL BEEN LOOKING FOR INFO FOR A LONG TIME HAVE ALREADY LEARNED ALOT I ALSO HAVE A 50 MODEL THAT SAYS SILVER 8 STREAK ON THE SIDE I AM RESTORING,THE FIREWALL TAG SAYS STYLE 50-25690, BODY 8113, TRIM 71, PAINT 10 I HAVE LEARNED WHAT THE TRIM,PAINT FOR MY CAR IS NOT SURE ABOUT THE STYLE AND BODY IS I AM ALREADY IN TEAR DOWN I HAVE EVERYTHING STRIPPED AND CAN'T FIND MUCH, IT WAS PURCHASED NEW IN KS. AND NOW IS IN NC.ANY HELP WOULD BE APRECIATED THANKS,JERRY.

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  • 1 month later...

not good at computers but try. I have a 1933 roadster. I need to gather as much info as I can and would enjoy networking with 1933 owners. The particular info I would like to find is rear differential ratios and interchange possibilities. My car drives well but needs to lower the engine rpms. Thanks for help.

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Stop thinking the word (Post) and Silver streak. All post means in the modern venacular is sedan rather than hardtop (no post). Why not just use the original manufacturers words. Silver streak was only a trim piece and advertising used to accentuate the single and later double waterfall style chrome streaks on the hood and trunk. An 8 cylinder 4 door sedan Pontiac would be a 2769. The model is Chieftian. When you are on the road you will have one great car.

The 50 Pontiac is my third choice of a car, 34 would be second and first choice has been my daily driver for 49 3/4 years.

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  • 3 weeks later...

If anyone on this page is interested, I have a 1947 Pontiac 4 door sedan that has 50,000 original miles on a straight 6 with 3 speed on the column. The car is disassembled because I was starting a restoration but got sidetracked on other projects.Other than surface rust there is no rot. The engine ran great just before I took the car apart. The car has been in storage in a barn since the 1960's. I am in New jersey and would like to sell the car for $1000. I can be contacted at 908-217-6899.

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  • 3 weeks later...

hi me and my buddy just brought home a 1940 coupe, havent even got it in the garage yet. lookin for info on the engine and also some pics and or measurements of the front crossmember that the control arms attatch to, it was sittin on the ground and I need to rebiuld it any herlp is greatly appreciated

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  • 3 months later...

Hello Im looking for info about my 1950 cheftian L8 flathead.

I,m located in Sweden but will go to the states in sept for a partstrip.

first Q; as the body is a GM A-body will the chassi parts like front end bushings and links fit from the chevrolet 50.

sec Q; any tip about good shops for engine parts in the CA area.

third Q; when I'm restoring the engine can I upgrade with parts for a 54 flathead for better horsepower.

If anyone have some quick answers for me I be glad.

Micke L

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Hello Im looking for info about my 1950 cheftian L8 flathead.

I,m located in Sweden but will go to the states in sept for a partstrip.

first Q; as the body is a GM A-body will the chassi parts like front end bushings and links fit from the chevrolet 50.

sec Q; any tip about good shops for engine parts in the CA area.

third Q; when I'm restoring the engine can I upgrade with parts for a 54 flathead for better horsepower.

If anyone have some quick answers for me I be glad.

Micke L

You might try EGGE Machine if you are in the Los Angeles area. They are in Santa Fe Springs/Norwalk area. They have a website www.egge.com

They may have engine parts for your car.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, and thank you. I have a 54 Chieftain Special two door sedan with a 239 6 cyl, and 3 speed. Love the car, We use it more than our 30 Model A sedan. Just put in new seats, and trying to get the 3 layers of old paint off of it. She runs great, but smokes going down hill, and the oil preasure drops when she gets warmed up. That's the next project. There great cars, and ride real nice.

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  • 1 year later...

The first car I ever owned was a 1954 Pontiac Star Chief Convt. That was back in '57. I bought a 1940 Pontiac model 40-26 in 1968 from the father of a friend for 50 bucks. It had 54,000 miles on it. The alcohol he used for antifreeze (Yes they used that back then) evaporated and subsequently cold weather cracked the block. I bought a donor car, 1948 Pontiac, rebuilt the engine and used the 40 as a daily drive until a ring broke and scored a cylinder wall. There was a family to raise and little money for hobbies so the car sat until around 2000. Found another engine out of a 1940 up in Diluth Minn, bought it and then found out it was a '46 after it was professionally rebuilt. Sure wish I would have check the serial number. Love being a purist, hate wasting money so I put it in the car. That's when I threw my back out requiring two operations and found I could not bend over the fender to complete the installation of the motor without great pain. I retired a year ago and this summer I pulled the car out of the garage only to find out there was rust inside the engine. I pulled the engine out again and tackled the rust problem. Right now the car has been tucked back into the corner of the garage awaiting next spring. You talk about a 40+ year ongoing saga. Sure hope I get the car running again before I get too old to turn a wrench.

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hi fuse, all 268 cid pontiac straight eight engines from 1950 to 1954 were the same except in two areas, if you change the cylinder head to the factory high compression head, you'll pick up about 4 more horses, and in 1954, the intake manifold and carburetor were slightly larger, bringing another 5 horses. you could mill the cylinder head alittle to raise compression. edmunds made a finned alum. head and a couple of dual two barrel carbs intake manifolds, these's are getting pretty pricey, the manifolds show up on ebaymotors more often than a finned head does. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor, poci.

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  • 11 months later...

Thank God and AACA for forums like these to be able to finally talk with folks about my '48 Silver 8 Streak. Pictures will be forth coming.I purchased this car last week .It has been sitting on a cement floor enclosed gargage for the past 45 years. The headbolts have been removed from the 6 cylinder and so has the water "gooseneck" to the top radiator hose. I need to know if all (30) headbolts are the same length into the block.

the only one left that I pulled out measures

(7/16-20 2/58" ) and I need to purchase a water neck.Any help Is more than appreciated. Thank You and hello everyone!

Doug Konitski

Thomaston,CT 06787

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You might try EGGE Machine if you are in the Los Angeles area. They are in Santa Fe Springs/Norwalk area. They have a website www.egge.com

They may have engine parts for your car.

hi, i would never advise someone to buy pistons from egge machine shop, santa fe springs, calif. i speak from my own experience with their pistons in my 1953 pontiac straight eight engine, after 15,000 miles of easy driving, one of the piston completely separated in the oil ring groove, egge's process of making aluminum pistons makes a product that looks good, but are completely unreliable. my engine was professionally balanced, blue printed, and assembled by engler bros automotive machine shop in santa monica, calif. the engine was professionally tuned by retired pontiac mechanic harold kennedy, now deceased. this was all done in 1976, i went back to egge in 1978, with 7 plus one broken piston, their excuse was "our parts are only covered for ninety days", and sold me another set of pistons for half price. but i had to completely rebuild the engine again. so again, i will never send anyone to egge's for pistons. charles coker, 1953 pontiac technical advisor.

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Hi, and thank you. I have a 54 Chieftain Special two door sedan with a 239 6 cyl, and 3 speed. Love the car, We use it more than our 30 Model A sedan. Just put in new seats, and trying to get the 3 layers of old paint off of it. She runs great, but smokes going down hill, and the oil preasure drops when she gets warmed up. That's the next project. There great cars, and ride real nice.

hi oldscout, smokes when going downhill, going downhill is a high engine vacuum condition, so you're most likely pulling oil past the oil and compression rings, you might improve the oil pressure when warmed up, by removing the screw cap, spring, and check ball from the oil pump (it's directly across and below from the distributor), clean up the check ball, and try putting a washer type shim between the spring and screw cap to improve the oil pressure. the oil might also be getting past the intake valve guides as well. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor.

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Well, I put a set of rings,rod, and main bearings in her, and the oil pressure came up and the smoke stopped. Next, I'm going to have to change the intake gasket to stop a vacuum leak on number 2 and 3 cylinder. It's always something!

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

Hello all! I am new to this forum and new to antique automobiles. I have been a car junkie all my life, and finally have a classic to call my own. On November 23, 2013, I became the owner of a 1953 Pontiac Chieftain Deluxe two door. It has the Flathead 239 6 with a manual transmission. I really didn't have this specific vehicle in mind....with years to think about what I wanted and years to look, I had pretty much narrowed my search to anything between 1928 and 1968. I have a fondness for Buick (and limited myself to GM makes). I found my Chieftain locally, and due to the fact that not everyone has one - like the tri-five Chevys - I fell in love instantly. So far, I have determined that there are a number of original parts on the Chieftain. Some...not so original. Like that grill for instance...

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Since 11/23/2013, and through reading posts from members - and Mr. Charles Coker - which are amazing and so informative, I have found out quite a bit of information on this black beauty... For instance, she isn't supposed to be black. :)

I am anxious to pour over this forum and learn as much as I can about my car as possible and am eager for feedback from other forum members.

Edited by mattklem
spelling.. (see edit history)
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  • 4 months later...

Hi, Can someone tell me how to adjust the center link end plugs, that screw in to adjust tension on a spring behind the cups that hold the balls of the inner tie rod ends. (I know about the part where you take out the cotter pins and use the slot, to screw them in or out.) My uncertainty is about how tight they should be, and how that is determined. Too loose, I guess the tie rod balls could drop out; too tight, steering could bind and parts wear. I want them to be like Baby Bear's porridge, "just right." The car is a 53 Catalina. I played with them, mostly tightening, on a Jan/Feb trip from NB to FL, and now I'd like to reset them.

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Hi, Can someone tell me how to adjust the center link end plugs, that screw in to adjust tension on a spring behind the cups that hold the balls of the inner tie rod ends. (I know about the part where you take out the cotter pins and use the slot, to screw them in or out.) My uncertainty is about how tight they should be, and how that is determined. Too loose, I guess the tie rod balls could drop out; too tight, steering could bind and parts wear. I want them to be like Baby Bear's porridge, "just right." The car is a 53 Catalina. I played with them, mostly tightening, on a Jan/Feb trip from NB to FL, and now I'd like to reset them.

With my '54 I just turned the big screws (end plugs) in till they wouldn't turn any more. then, backed them off till the slot lined up for the cotter pin to lock the screw.

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Hmmm...Thanks, Tin Indian. I think that would completely compress the coil springs inside, right? Then back off for slot alignment, just giving the springs the least bit of rebound/compression as steering inputs and road shocks are transmitted. It's a funny old system. And funny that it isn't covered in the shop manual. The picture of your 54 reminded me of the 51 Ambulance, body by Meteor(?-hazy on that) I got back in '79 or '80, on its very last legs, as an engine donor for my 53. And telling you that reminded me of the 57 Pontiac hearse I bought around then, in the hope that its Hydramatic would replace mine. Big disappointment - little in common but the name.

Is that vertical chrome ahead of the rear wheel a simulated air intake, like Caddys of the era?

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Hmmm...Thanks, Tin Indian. I think that would completely compress the coil springs inside, right? Then back off for slot alignment, just giving the springs the least bit of rebound/compression as steering inputs and road shocks are transmitted. It's a funny old system. And funny that it isn't covered in the shop manual. The picture of your 54 reminded me of the 51 Ambulance, body by Meteor(?-hazy on that) I got back in '79 or '80, on its very last legs, as an engine donor for my 53. And telling you that reminded me of the 57 Pontiac hearse I bought around then, in the hope that its Hydramatic would replace mine. Big disappointment - little in common but the name.

Is that vertical chrome ahead of the rear wheel a simulated air intake, like Caddys of the era?

In my '49 - '54 shop manual it has a blurry photocopy of the centerlink that's a cutaway. It says, (with an arrow pointing at the end cap) "Adjust end plug by turning down tight and backing off to nearest cotter pin hole" When I had my centerlink disassembled to clean and re-grease, I remember noticing the springs looked heavier than a valve spring. I highly doubt turning the plug in would even begin to compress it. You'd have to really crank it.

The vertical chrome is to cover the section of the front of the rear fender that was cut off. There was a rounded front to the fender. To accommodate a straight vertical edged rear door, the fender was chopped and a chrome piece was fabricated to cover the raw end.

Heres a shot of one side of the centerlink guts. Note how heavy the coil spring is?

centerlinkguts_zps401aa79a.jpg

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There is a special screwdriver that exactly flits the slot. On my car I tighten it down as tight as I can using a 1/2 inch ratchet (approx. 60 ft/lbs) and then back off to insert the cotter pin. You have no idea of the road force shock that is put on those springs and seats when your wheel hits a bump, pot hole or the wheel drops into a rut. Adjusted right and lubricated those pieces will last 500,000 miles.

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Thanks again, Tin Indian. I should have taken a closer look at the manual. Great pictures of your project. Wow, a lot of work to this play, isn't there? Some of the sheet metal and heavier metal work you had to do seems painfully familiar to me for some reason. My 57 hearse furnished an electric wiper motor for my 53, in an easy installation. It still uses the cables to run the pivots, and they're looser than they should be - another situation where I'm tempted to say the manual doesn't give adjustment instructions. But I'll recheck before saying that.

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My thanks to you, too, Tinindian. Years ago, I flattened the shaft of a 3/8" extension for use as an adjusting tool. It has since gone the way of all the earth, and was not among the goods and effects present on our trip south. I improvised using the tire iron. "Some fun, huh, Bambi?" When the apprentice asked the old pro for the torque spec, O.P answered, "As tight as you can get it, plus a quarter turn."

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There is a special screwdriver that exactly flits the slot. On my car I tighten it down as tight as I can using a 1/2 inch ratchet (approx. 60 ft/lbs) and then back off to insert the cotter pin. You have no idea of the road force shock that is put on those springs and seats when your wheel hits a bump, pot hole or the wheel drops into a rut. Adjusted right and lubricated those pieces will last 500,000 miles.

So, you really tightened yours up? How many extra turns did you get after the screw/plug initially contacted the cup?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have another problem - windshield wipers. The cables are off the drums that drive them at the motor end. (Long story) Which one goes where, and how is slack removed, so the wipers sit down nicely when parked?

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I have another problem - windshield wipers. The cables are off the drums that drive them at the motor end. (Long story) Which one goes where, and how is slack removed, so the wipers sit down nicely when parked?

what year pontiac do you have ?

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Hello, Charles, and thank you. I got my wipers sorted out - I used the muddle through, trial and error, take a stab in the dark, if at first you don't succeed, try, try again method that has served me so well, so long. I've admired your impressive (understatement) Pontiac, having seen your posts somewhere. Love the spoke wheel covers.

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post-32395-143142529253_thumb.jpghi stelor, i went out to my 53 (not much room around the car in the garage) and tried to take some pictures with my sony digital camera, lol, the air conditioning hoses up inside the dash kept me from getting good pictures. i am glad to read that you sorted it all out. thanks for your opinion of my olds/pontiac wire wheel hubcaps, that was a fun project, i ended up doing two more sets of four for other people, and one for a friend's man cave wall decoration. let me know if you have any other 1953 pontiac needs. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor.

post-32395-143142529179_thumb.jpg

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post-32395-14314252923_thumb.jpg

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Thanks again, Charles. I appreciate the effort you made, including an advanced application of contortional gymnastics, to get those pictures. You da man. And I relate well to the not much room thing - those two doors take a lot of it to get them open far enough for inside work. I removed one defroster duct, after removing the dash speaker, after removing the glove box, and then I could get my hand (singular - not that I don't have two) in there. Needed light, but the light kept getting knocked out of focus, speaking of which, working at that distance I have to peer over the glasses. The pull-up cable goes on one drum, and the pull-down cable on the other, for each wiper. Simple, once you know how. I suppose that's in a body manual or a wiper supplier manual somewhere.

I found another use for those rear fender emblems. I used one of mine as a mold, melted aluminum rod into it, and for a second one, solder, to make a head for my grille center. Sandwiched it between plexiglass circles, put a light behind it, and get along pretty OK until a correct one shows up in my price range of, well, low.

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Thanks again, Charles. I appreciate the effort you made, including an advanced application of contortional gymnastics, to get those pictures. You da man. And I relate well to the not much room thing - those two doors take a lot of it to get them open far enough for inside work. I removed one defroster duct, after removing the dash speaker, after removing the glove box, and then I could get my hand (singular - not that I don't have two) in there. Needed light, but the light kept getting knocked out of focus, speaking of which, working at that distance I have to peer over the glasses. The pull-up cable goes on one drum, and the pull-down cable on the other, for each wiper. Simple, once you know how. I suppose that's in a body manual or a wiper supplier manual somewhere.

I found another use for those rear fender emblems. I used one of mine as a mold, melted aluminum rod into it, and for a second one, solder, to make a head for my grille center. Sandwiched it between plexiglass circles, put a light behind it, and get along pretty OK until a correct one shows up in my price range of, well, low.

i'm leaving today on the truck (cross country truckdriver), when i get back home, i'll look in my stash for a 51,53 pontiac grill lucite emblem, i like the 52 emblem with the head in gold instead of silver. charles.

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  • 2 months later...

Hello together,

i am glad that i found this forum and want to say hello. I just registered myself and hope that you can answer some questions that i will have in the next months during the restauration of my "brandnew"

1950 Pontiac Chieftain Silverstreak 2 Door Sedan.

I bought the baby last month here in Germany with an US-Title from Virginia.

The condition is not too bad, motor running, not too much rust, chrome bad.

The next days i try to upload some photos.

Have a nice day (or night)

( Sorry for my english, hope it is not too bad )

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  • 6 months later...

Hi everybody! Nice to meet you!

Please allow me to introduce myself:

My name is Thomas, another european german with the virus for flathead Pontiac!

My automotive adventure is just about to start:

post-106636-143142993523_thumb.jpg

Leaving Miami this car is now on its journey to Europe!

After arrival (How long might this take?) I will post a bit more about this 1954 Pontiac Starchief Catalina 2Dr Hardtop.

I am almost sure that the description of its seller is correct: A beautiful and solid car, nearly original.

(To my knowledge the colors on that car are non-original, but look very, very sharp!!!).

She will need some minor modifications to get a german registration.

I think this forum will be very helpful for me in near future!

Thanks for being here!

Thomas

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