Jump to content

Intermittent Power Loss


Guest
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have been having an intermittent problem with my '88. It only has 200k on the clock!<BR>Every once in a while, when I step down hard on the accelerator, it just acts like it's running out of gas. It sometimes bucks, but usually, the pedal hits the floor and I lose speed fast. If I let up on it and coast a few seconds, I can proceed (as long as I take it easy). <BR>Yesterday, it got hot here and it pegged the guage. I turned off the air, cranked up the heat and it started to cool down. I was doing about 60 in light trafic. It just suddenly died! It was cooling off and I wasn't leaning on it. It just lost power and stalled altogether. When I tried to start it, it sounded like the timing was off. It would stumble and try to run, I just couldn't keep it running. It felt just like a slipped timing chain. I got towed home and tried it later in the evening. It started right up as usual. I'm going to try to make it to my mechanic in the morning. Any tips?<P>I've replaced the ECM computer and the Oxygen sensor (junk yard parts). I have a warning on the CRT EVERYTIME I start the car saying that there's an "engine control" problem. The mechanic hooked it up to his computer and he gets the same report, but the cam sensor is new and all seems well. he figured a wiring harness problem.<P>Here's the codes I got while dead on the road.<P>E06,E065,E026,E041,E047<BR>B122,B123,B552,B553<BR>C553<P>I'll look them up, but I figured the more I give the more I get from you wizards.<P>TIA<P>Sorry for the long post.<P>Paul shocked.gif" border="0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A couple of those codes point to the EGR and quad driver which operates it, which could cause stalling, but generally not while running at speed. One is for a momentary signal loss to the BCM. The BCM codes are for panel dimming and battery disconnected. I cannot find E06, which isn't enough characters?? If the engine temperature was very high, many of the electronic items could be susceptible to that alone. The ECM itself, or the ignition module/coil pack come to mind. Did they check the fuel delivery? A clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump will also give symptoms like this but it may recover when the load is reduced.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, if something like this seemed to be related to engine temperature, I would look closely at the ignition module and coil pack. Even if the engine temp was dropping, they could still be warming up and marginal electronics generally show up when hot.<P>One or two cyl bad would indicate the coil pack. Everything dying would point to the ign. module.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the quick response!<P>Last year, I replaced the fuel pump, and my mechanic replaced the catalytic converter and, again, the fuel pump. It's been fine up to now. The symptoms then were that the car would run fine unless I got stuck in traffic. It would steadily lose power until, eventually, I was sitting in traffic with the accelerator to the floor and the car would be running under 1000RPM until it just refused to run. My mechanic ran the car in his place until it got hot and then, when it started stumbling, he diverted the fuel flow and measured the pressure. Not only did the pressure continue to drop, the gas itself got so hot we had to stop because he couldn't touch the fuel line anymore!<P>He replaced the cat and the pump and it's been fine up until now. I have a good deal of faith in my mechanic. I have also replaced the coil pack. <P>Keep the ideas coming. This is what the internet excels at!<P>Thanks,<P>Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The E041 is the key. The cam sensor signal is missing. A bad sensor, a broken magnet retainer, or a bad ECM input channel can cause this. Without this signal, the ECM has a five out of six chance of being in essentially "limp home" mode.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I must admit I don't understand the comment "diverted the fuel flow"? The fuel rail has a pressure tap built in and the gauge can be left attached so touching the fuel isn't necessary. The fuel should continuously recirculate and the whole tank load would have to get hot unless the fuel lines are laying on the exhaust. If the fuel pressure drops much below 30 psi or so the engine can and will die. It may run lean also making it run hotter than normal. The fuel pressure shouldn't drop below 34-35 psi or so with engine running, and it should be in the low to mid 40's with the key on and engine off, or the vacuum line disconnected from the regulator. If you lose part of the signal from the crank sensor, the car will continue to run but with greatly retarded timing, so exhaust heat will rise. The crank sensor, harness or ignition module could be at fault if this is the case. If the cam sensor signal is missing, the car should continue to run but the driveability will not be as good, primarily at low speed. The difference in proper injector timing is only milliseconds at elevated rpms and are actually open for over 80% of the available "on" time at maximum power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One more thing, if the timing chain has not been replaced, that could also cause a serious loss of power. The valve timing will be retarded and the tensioner can only take up so much slack if it isn't worn through.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a problem earlier this year that sounds very similar to yours. My car died one day and I thought it was because I was low on gas. After that everytime I would stomp on the gas either from take off or to pass somebody on the road it would spit and sputter and jerk like I was running out of gas. I took it into the dealer and he fixed some module in it. I can not remember the exact name right now but I can find out within the next couple of days when I go home and look at the receipt from the dealer. I do remember he charged me like 340 dollars for labor and parts though. I will post you once I find out the name and maybe you could have that checked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow!<P>Lot's of information. This is the power of the web. Thanks folks! Here's where it stands...<BR>My mechanic tells me I had installed the thermostat upside-down for one thing.<BR>I thought it was odd that the manual depicted it spring up, but it does(Figure 6, 6B-6). I thought it odd, but I figured the manual should be right even though I have never installed one upside-down before.<P>Anyway, he reversed the thermostat and ran the car at idle for hours and it never indicated over 218 degrees. He drove it and stomped on it. It never showed the problem. He agreed with the diagnosis that some of you mentioned that the module under the coil pack could be at fault and has loaned me one to play with should the problem re-occur.<P>I think it was Hal that questioned my mention of "diverting" the fuel flow. I should have been more specific. I think he jumpered a relay and forced the fuel pump to run continuously with the ingine off while measuring the fuel pressure. <P>I'll keep you posted in case anyone else can benefit. Monday's commute should tell.<P>Thanks All!<P><BR>Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know what the answer to your problem is, but a clogged fuel filter will cause power loss. The engine will run fine up to the point that it gets starved for fuel. Fuel starvation will occur under heavier load. The car will probably idle fine and run fine during light acceleration, but if you stop on the pedal, the fuel mixture will go lean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, some cars have a filter sock in the fuel tank on the fuel pick-up line. Not sure if the Reatta has one. <P>As the car runs, sediment will accumulate on the filter sock causing fuel starvation.<P>When the engine is stopped the sediment will fall off of the sock and the fuel supply will retun to normal. <P>The solution for this problem is to drain and clean the fuel tank and put on a new filter sock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...