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Rear hub puller


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maybe i am cheap but i called a few rental places andlocated a puller that was perfect then i called around to find a 300lb guy to stand on the breaker bar.the worst part of this plan is finding someone who knows what your talking aboutwhen you say hub puller.

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here is a different way rolf have you tried this.i found it on another board.

I have also been told that it was common for active mechanics of the genere to back off the castellated nut a couple of turns, replace the cotter key and very carefully drive to the nearest large parking lot and drive in circles until the drum pops loose. Never tried it my self.

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I don't believe I ever did either, most of the junk Z's I partsed out in the '50's wouldn't run, so to get the valuable rear brakes off them, I had to have a good puller, my experience was that the KR Wilson type was head and shoulders beyond any other type of puller, the re-pros were $130 the last time I checked

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I used a hub removal tool that screws on the axle and you then beat it with a 3 lb. or so hammer. The shock breaks the hold on the tapered axle. I got it from an antique Ford resto guy here in San Diego and it cost about $6.00. Has anyone used one of these before? It worked for me and the guy that sold it to me uses it all the time in his shop, but I felt uneasy beating on the axle. You have to check it every few blows of the hammer to keep it screwed on the axle tight so as not to damage the threads.

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Hey Bill, do you ever wonder why these guys who don't know an old Lincoln from a Chevy S-10 keep asking these questions, get the answers, and then go ahead and do something else?? I love old L's, and to talk about them, but??? Give me a break!!!

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  • 4 months later...

Rolf;Any idea where you can buy the Wilson puller you mentioned!My 48 is sitting in shop with 2 damaged axles.THey are OK now had to tear rearend apart and have them redone with new threads.Shop used heat and hammer!!But I also ruined one myself too so can't complain to much about them!!That took care of my spare axles!Probably worth spending the money and having it available if needed.What about coating the axle ends with that stuff to prevent them rusting together,Sr.Moment can't think what you call it!!Would that make it easier next time to get apart?Thanks

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Someone asked about this a long long time ago, several years at least, and we found the retailer in NY, but as I recall they were discontinuing them, and the person we were helping got their last one, I can't remember the seller at all, talk about SR moments, but I personally had to yank off some rear drums a while back, and I borrowed a KR Wilson repro from a friend, and it worked so slick it was unbelievable, perhaps someone can remember that source that used to sell them, maybe they have gone to China, and can now offer them for $5.99 per, or maybe not, I really don't know. We always used to re-assemble the drums on the axle with a heavy coat of grease, chassis lube, an axle shim if possible, and stand on a break-over and socket to tighten the axle nuts, forget the torque specs, just as tight as you can, sorry I can't recall the name of that purveyor-

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Here is the address of the place that has the hub puller, I bought one several months ago and within 5 minutes had both rear drums off. Works like a charm with no possibility of damage. This by the way was a cut and paste from an older posting by Phill K. He always comes through.

Tom

Winfield Tool Works

437 West Broadway

Port Jefferson, New York, 11777.

Phone (631) 928-3316.

Pretty pricey at $130, but the alternatives aren't much cheaper."

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