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Help with 1927 Dodge Brothers Sedan


Bob27

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A friend just brought home a doodle bug built from a 1927 four door dodge sedan. It is missing the carb.

A plate on the floor board lists a vehicle number of A-726948.

Stamped on the driver side of the engine is B-779-809.

Very unusual setup. The engine air intake is piggy-backed over the exhaust manifold. There is a port which goes crosswise thru the block between 2 & 3 cylinders. On that side of the engine is a second port above the first that goes back into the block and (assumed) to the intake valves. The carb must be u-shaped and connect to these two openings. From some research we think the carb would be a Stewart.

There is no generator and the engine is fitted with a magneto. It has a regular starter, not a starterator.

Looking for help on confirming the year of mfg, what model engine and what we need to replace/identify the carb.

Bob

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That serial number would put it late July '27. Preheated air is drawn over the exhaust then goes to the back of the carb. Hit Ebay, there's usually a few on there, Detroit-Lubricator. A '27 has seperate starter generator. Where is the magneto located? Sounds like you have a conglomerant of parts. IS the carb on the passenger side or driver's side?

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Thanks for the reply and the info.

The carb is on the driver side. We just found and bought a

Stewart Detroit Lubrictor carb. Looks like the right one.

I think the magneto is an "aftermarket" cobble. The bracket which holds the mag looks homemade. The mag is on the pass. side aft of the water pump. I seem to recall seeing a picture of a right angle drive distributor on one of these dodge engines.

Is there a way to post pictures here?

Bob

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Yes there is a hole in the bell housing for the starter on the driver side.

Yes, the mag is coupled to the water pump shaft.

I read somewhere that the engine number and the vehicle number should be close to each other and they are.

I will take some new pics tomorrow and post them on PhotoBucket or such.

Bob

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Guest backyardmachinc

Hello Bob,

What you have here is a 3 main bearing,6 volt engine,with the backward DB shift pattern tranny.This engine was only produce for a fer months then the model D ngine with 5 main bearings were made.The dist. fite behind the pully

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Guest backyardmachinc

Yes it was the first 6 volt engine By the way we had a good time at the DB dinner at hershery smile.gif

There were the 12 volt engine with no leter in front of the serieal number the A letter was still the 12 volt but repersents after 1 million,then came the 6 volt engines which were "B" same engine as the "A" but with 6 volt system,"C"engine was same as "B" but had 5 main bearing,

the "D" engine were 5 main bearings and the OEM shifting patteren with the dist on the head,and 4 point motor support.

Hope this helps.

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Thanks for the help!

Now some more questions.

How do you drain the oil from the crankcase? No apparent drain plug.

Where do we find a new head gasket or what can be made to work?

What do you mean by "Backward Shift Pattern"?

Bob

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Got the oil drained and refilled (6 qts. ??).

Well, here are some more puzzling things about this engine.

See pictures below.

The carb fits fine and the tube on its air intake lines up with the hole thru the block. This carb is supposedly the "original oem" for the engine.

BUT, the bowl on the carb interferes with the starter. If we rotate the lower part of the carb 180* the interference is eliminated.

BUT, the carb air intake is now pointing away from the block.

We seem to need a different carb or a shorter starter.

Ideas??

Bob

post-54249-14313795471_thumb.jpg

post-54249-143137954714_thumb.jpg

post-54249-143137954716_thumb.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

We are going to need some new exhaust valves for the Dodge. We removed the old ones and had them refaced and now they are too thin on the edges of the bevel.

Any idea on where to get replacements or some valves we could alter to make work?

Bob

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Bob, you can get valves from several sources. Romar, Myers, and Roy Brister would all have them. I'm sure Egge would too. I replaced mine a few years ago after one broke. Many new ones are stainless steel.You may want to replace the little pins that hold the springs on too. I made new ones from hardened drill blanks from McMaster-Carr. Mine were worn almost through, they would have soon caused trouble. My head studs were "eaten" from one side almost 1/4 of the way through. For the studs I bought B-7 threaded rod, again from McMaster-Carr. B-7 is super strong stuff. The only thing I came up with was galvanic reaction from the copper gasket. ALL the eaten away area was on the same side of the stud. I figure the gasket was shifted to one side and touched, causeing a battery effect. ANY IDEAS?

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  • 2 weeks later...

We were able to get the valves from Northwestern Auto Supply in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Thanks for the help.

We have it RUNNING!

Started it today for the first time. Lots of smoke, fumes, and BIG smiles. It hasn't run in 30+ years!

Test Drive Soon.

Bob

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Brian,

We are using the "wrong" carby by rotating the lower half 180* so the float chamber clears the starter. This of course makes the air intake face away from the engine. (As shown in the second picture.)

Still looking for a "proper carb".

Bob

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  • 4 years later...
Guest Shayne B

Can any of you guys help me with how to set the timing for a 27 dodge (A106449) - It has the starter/generator in one thing and I've just put in the magneto it is connected to the shaft connected to the water pump. Is there a top dead centre mark. And do I need to worry about timing retarding and advancing with revving etc.

I've asked you guys because you sound so clever, and have talked about a similar car.

Cheers

Shayne

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