Guest ChevroletR Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 Has anybody had an issue with turning their lights on and both switch panels next to the cluster not lighting up? Then all of the sudden, I'll be driving and they'll flick on. I bought a spare headlight switch from ebay and put it in and same problem. I looked in the service manual and it looks like there is a "Iridescent" module or something under the drivers side of the dash, right below the pad. I looked up there and it might be pink and right next to another module. Kinda looks like a flasher and it looks very hard to get to. Any ideas? Similiar issues? ThanksRyan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 99% of the time it is the headlight switch module. Everytime I see one of them going on Ebay for a high price I shudder, as from experience in picking up used ones, only about 1 in 10 will actually work as is. You can take them apart and clean the contacts and about 50% of the time you will be successful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChevroletR Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 And by "Headlight switch module," you are referring to the headlight switch panel itself? That is what I got off Ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 That's it, the module on the left side of the IPC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChevroletR Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 Ah, alright well I'll try cleaning her up a bit and see what I got. They seem to be working now. ThanksRyan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kennyw Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 sorry but I disagree. Most of the time it is just a bad connection. It might be on one of the wires that connect to the switch itself or the 110-volt inverter. If the consol tell-tale lights are still working it is not the light sensor in the middle of the dash.......The pink part [is] the 110 module. Sorry, but it is a push-pin connection to a hole in the top of the dash. You have to move a few things but you can get one hand on it and pull it off or down. There is no way to get to the one way push-connection. I changed one on my car and all the tell-tale lights now work. THERE is a 3 wire connector to this module but even if you can get it off of the module you will never get it back. So pull hard to get the module in your hand. Put in a new one. Leave it amoung the many wires. Don't put it back in place.........need you change it again.....There is a product that is used in house wireing when connecting a copper wire to aluminum wire. I use this very sparingly on each connection. It is better than trying to clean each connection. It makes a very good connection. Just don't use too much. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChevroletR Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 Yeah, this is what I was guessing. Where did you find that pink 110 module at? I got a part number from GM and it looks like it's discontinued. So you got it from under the dash, correct? Removing the plastic trim on the top of the dash didn't access it? And what do you mean when you talk about using a product that is used in household to connect copper to aluminum wires? Is there any splicing that I need to do? ThanksRyan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kennyw Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 well if you could get the top of the dash off without it crumbling, then yes, you could push the one way push pin out. I would not risk it. I find that if you try to put the replacement 110 inverter back into it's hole you also take the chance of breaking the dash from underneath. That is why I said to just mix it in amoung the large amount of wireing.........I would expect Jim Finn to have used modules for sale..........the substance I talked about is more like a thin paste. Electricans use it. You might remember that they used aluminum wire in houses about 20 years ago. You can see how small some of these connectors are. They are almost impossible to clean. A drop of this stuff, connect and re-connect a few time and it cleans them and makes a good connection. The down side is you have to make sure you don't use too much. It is very conductive and can jump voltage from one wire to the one beside it. The hard part is having enough force to break the push pin and not cut your arm on something sharp when it breaks loose. You can either see it or feel it but there is not enough room to do both. Send me an email and I will try and pull up a pix. for you. I will try and post one with this new format first...........ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kennyw Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 111 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChevroletR Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 That's exactly the module I was talking about too! I found it in the service manual and then found it on my Reatta. Where can I find this Jim Finn? ThanksRyan Washington Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike_s Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 Kenny, Good Pics and advice, ThanksBTW I think the Alu wiring antioxidant you referred to is available in the electical section at most hardware stores, HD,Lowes,Ace etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kennyw Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 Jim usually reads most post and chimes in if he can help. He is one of [us] and not one of them. Most of the time his prices are cheaper than you driving to a bone yard and getting the part, if you could find one, youself. Now you have most of the information needed to get the dreaded 110-VOLT LUMINESENT STRIP LIT. It is a strip and not lights that you see coming through the, what I call [tell-tale] plastic. No light bulbs are used. I found it hard to believe or understand at first. The only light bulb I have found in this system is in the ash tray. If you ever get this far there is one more thing to do. THE DIMMER SLIDER. Do not use any spray cans to try to free up the slider or make better contact. The spray only melts plastic parts: The knob,-[slider] rides on a metal rod. JUST ONE DROP OF MOTORCYCLE CHAIN LUBE or something simular on this metal bar is all you need. Just a dab on the end of a tooth pick does the job--------there are a few lucky folks that have used the spray cans and not caused damage. If you ever take [a] switch apart only then will you see what I say is correct. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kennyw Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 here you go Registered: 06/08/05 Posts: 912 Loc: NW IL. Jim FinnE-mail Address(es):jfinn@cpinternet.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machiner 55 Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 Mr. Finn can be contacted at: jfinn@cpinternet.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 Kenny, If you are talking about the strip light in the shifter, I replaced mine about a year ago with a 12 volt led strip light made by PILOT obtained from AutoZone. It was blue and the lights matched up to the shift points, and I wired it into the fuse box. I am free of the 110 transformer, and that means one less obsolete part to have an extra of[or find]. Installation was simple, take out the smaller shifter plate, take apart the panel,remove the illuminescent panel, cut two holes on either end, and slide in your led light strip. You will need 2 kits. It looks just like factory. I know, cause my original one worked for about 5 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChevroletR Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 Thanks guys, I was able to contact Mr. Finn. And Dave, I know what LED light strip you're talking about because I work at Advance Auto Parts. I'm sure APC or Optx made by StreetGlow has something similar. Do you know if they're spaced out correctly to do the headlamp and wiper switch modules? Thanks againRyan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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