reatta brakes /

[Guest squiretom]

i am / was / now maybe going to purchase a Reatta after the first of the year. how pandemic is the brake issue ? / did the '91 or late '90 use a more conventional system ?

i have had 88 / 90 olds touring sedans and also 89 bonneville sse with antilock . were these the same system as the buick Teves ?

i look forward to shopping for a Reatta , hopefully from one of the members of this wonderfully prepared site. had decided to stay away from early models with the crt display and was more interested in a '90 or '91

thanx for tolerating this post

tom wasil

[Guest ChevroletR]

My Reatta has 140,000 miles on it and the only thing "brake" wise, besides pads, I had to replace was the accumulator for $60 GM I think or so and the front calipers. I also did a brake fluid flush. I'm not sure if your other cars have the same system, but I'm willing to say no since they aren't E-bodies I believe, but I still can't say for sure so don't hold me to it. My 88 Reatta has had the CRT rebuilt when my Uncle had the car and their are still people around who rebuild them. Heck, I work at Advance Auto Parts and even they have a listing for the 88's & 89's for the CRT. If you go into their "APAL" catalog, go into "Switches, Sensors, etc" and click "Information Display Module." I think it's $140 for a reman through them. Here are three different ones availible through their website: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=1400&ptset=A&searchfor=Information+Display+ModuleI like the '88 and '89 for their CRT, dash and no air bags. I have a nice Grant mahogony steering wheel that fits nicely. I also looked up the master cyliner/power brake ABS setup/module/assembly in Advance and I think they run over a grand! Don't go to their online store though, because I just checked and they list a power brake booster setup. Hope this helps.

Ryan

[Guest squiretom]

thanks for the quick reply and brake information , i have begun shopping for Florida reattas a and found 4 or 5 that are interesting. hope to shop for real around february

the brake issue really had me concerned until now.

THANX

[DAVES89]

If you want a conventional brake system the '91 is the way to go. I have an '89 w/135000 miles and my amber light is now coming on intermittant. I purchased the car last Dec. and am using it as a daily driver. The previous owner replaced the accumulater and the pressure switch. That seems to be the 2 items that go bad.Other then the fact that I can't stand it when everything does not work, I really don't need the ABS as I don't drive the car in the winter. I still feel, as do others, that the "true" Reatta experience can only be obtained with either the '88 or '89 because of the touch screen.

[Guest ChevroletR]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DAVES89</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have an '89 w/135000 miles and my amber light is now coming on intermittant....I still feel, as do others, that the "true" Reatta experience can only be obtained with either the '88 or '89 because of the touch screen. </div></div>

Haha, I've never heard of the "true" Reatta experience, but yes, I'm going to have to agree! Everyone is AMAZED by the CRT and all the technologies that Buick had in 1988 such as the touch screen.

Back to the brakes though, I saw that DAVE said his amber light is on and if correct, amber relates to only the ABS part of the brakes. I've had my amber ABS light on twice and when I flashed the codes, they were ABS sensor codes and I had to pay $60 (each time) to buy a used steering knuckle/hub assembly that comes with the ABS sensor because I couldn't find any new. So Dave's problem could just be simple as a sensor and not the power brake module setup/assy. So let me remind you that you have a serious brake issue when your RED brake light comes on and this happens for a few reasons and maybe more with the Reatta:

-Parking brake on (although your CRT will tell you too)

-Low brake pressure (Pretty sure the CRT tells you this also) This would probably be the problem when the "brake unit" goes bad

-Low brake fluid

In short, a RED brake light is much more important to pay attention to a AMBER ABS light because hopefully with just the amber light on, the car is still driveable. And if you loose brake pressure, the RED brake light will come on and this may be driveable for some people, not such a good idea! Hope this helps

Ryan

[Jim]

'88-90 Reattas used the Teves ABS as did several other cars in those years.

It is VERY important to change the fluid every few years.

1. It is HIGHLY recommended that all the fluid in the whole system be

changed with new fluid to eliminate any built up moisture in the system.

2. Any time the brake hydraulic system is to be opened the brake pedal

should be pumped 25 times with the key off to bleed off the 2600

pounds of pressure in the accumulator.

3. Siphon out as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir and refill with clean fluid to the top. Another good way is to cut the rubber hose that comes from the reservoir right where it attaches to the ABS pump and let all the fluid in the reservoir run out. Then remove the piece of hose still attached to the pump and reinstall the rubber hose. It is long enough to do this. I like to cut it rather than try and remove it because the hose sticks really hard to the plastic fitting and you might break the fitting trying to take the hose off. Doing it this way you get all the fluid out of the reservoir before putting in new clean fluid.

4. When doing the rear wheels only let out about a half of a cup and then refill the reservoir. This is to make sure you don't take out too much and get air into the system.

5. To bleed the front brakes have the key off and bleed in a conventional

method. Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while the other person opens the front bleeders.

6. To bleed the rear brakes

A. Turn on the key and allow the system to pressurize

B. Have an assistant slightly depress the pedal and hold it.

C. Open each rear bleeder, one at a time, and hold open until clear

fluid comes out. (The pump and motor will do the bleeding)

When you are done there are high and low marks on the reservoir and after the system pump and motor has run and the lights are out the level should be at the low mark. When you have pumped the brakes with the key off 25 times the level will be at the high mark.

[Richard S]

Just a note. I shopped extensively for the accumulator a few weeks ago, and the cheapest I could find was through gmpartsdirect for $106 + shipping. These babies are not going anywhere but up in price. Any genius who figures a way to retro the 91 abs system to the earlier models will be doing this the marque and this forum a grand grand service.

[Barney Eaton]

I have done some research on the accumulators. In the fear that they will be dropped by GM, I have checked on availabity of other units.

SAAB uses the same accumulator as the Reatta and they retail for just under $400.

There are lots of hydrulic accumulators available...they are not "plug-n-play" on our cars. When the time comes, one could be adapted via a metric to US thread adaptor. The only concern is the heigth to keep it from hitting the underside of the hood.

Another possibility is mounting the accumulator off to the side via a high pressure line.

One thing that keeps collectable car prices up is originallity...start changing things and your car will not retain top dollar.

[Guest TommyH]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Barney Eaton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One thing that keeps collectable car prices up is originallity...start changing things and your car will not retain top dollar. </div></div>

While that is true, some of us cannot afford to keep our cars if theyy require many expensive parts like that.

[Guest ChevroletR]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Barney Eaton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One thing that keeps collectable car prices up is originallity...start changing things and your car will not retain top dollar. </div></div>

Well I'm not in the automotive business to drive up car prices and the cost of our great hobby, but instead to enojoy the cars I own by driving them and doing what I can to keep them on the road. I don't like people looking at our automotive hobby as a 'financial investment.' Things like this are what keeps driving the price of the hobby up. Cars were made to be driven, not stored around and waited for the next buyer to make profit. My two cents.

Also, what's the telltale sign that your accumulator has gone bad? Thanks

Ryan

[jonlabree]

AMEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Ronnie]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't like people looking at our automotive hobby as a 'financial investment.' Things like this are what keeps driving the price of the hobby up. Cars were made to be driven, not stored around and waited for the next buyer to make profit. </div></div>

I have to respectively disagree completely even though I don't try to keep my Reatta in it's original condition. I like to make modifications and upgrades to it to improve it and make it what I want a Reatta to be.

While I, like you, bought my car to drive and enjoy, I think what you are saying is way off base. Barney is correct in pointing out that the value of a car like the Reatta will usually go down when you deviate from it being an original. There are exceptions, like maybe the Nstar version or the SC versions, but not many. People like Barney and the others here that like to show their cars in their original state can only help keep the value of our cars, including the daily and weekend drivers, up.

I think it is odd to think that any vehicle purchase should not be thought of as an investment. I always buy a vehicle hoping to recover as much of my money as I can when I decide to sell it. Even though I may lose money in the end, I still consider it an investment.

If you want to see the price of your hobby be driven down, you should have purchased a Yugo. There is one on eBay right now with 26k miles an '88 model for $450.00 and no reserve. That kind of price drop is not what I want to see for my Reatta. I would like to see the price of it go up or stay as close to the price I paid as possible. I feel that the people who try to maintain their vehicles in the original condition can only help Reatta owners like me.

Just my 2¢

[Lucky91]

I guess what drew me to the Reattas, I'm on my fifth, was first of all the looks, second was it's price, third was the uniqueness of the vehicle. To be able to own and drive a vehicle with it's looks and history at such a value was like hitting the jackpot for me. Can't do that with a Vette, BMW, or classic american cars like '70 Chevelle SS's or '70 Challengers, etc. Way too much money for me. We're all very lucky to own such cool cars at a virtual steal. Although I don't depend on mine as a daily driver, as many on this board do, I drive it alot each week. As individuals we all have our own ideas of what our cars will be for us. Whether as investments, car show competitors, or as F-14 writes in his sign off, "what his car can be and will be." To each his/her own. I personally hope that they stay affordable. I intend to buy more down the line but I won't be able to do that it the price goes through the stratosphere. But, had it not been for this board I'm sure I would not have owned as many or stayed as interested in these cars. The Reatta experience is not just the car but the group participation from all of you. What a great ride its been.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I will research retrofitting the '91 system after I complete "Project GS". It can't be that bad

[Guest F14CRAZY]

And ChevroletR: a bad accumulator will make your yellow ABS light come on, and when doing the brake test you'll find out because you should be able to pump the brake pedal at least twice without the pump coming on. A bad accumulator will get it to turn on with a slight touch.

If your home has a well, the accumulator is like the well tank. It holds water pressure so the pump doesnt have to come on all the time whenever you open a faucet (or hit the brakes)

[Guest ChevroletR]

If I wanted a car to make profit on, I certainly wouldn't get a Reatta. A Reatta is something that can be reliable, unique, and fun to drive! I never doubted that changing from original helps retain value! I know that, but take something so simple like this brake issue for example. Why keep beating your head against the wall when you're having issues with your 20 year old braking system that may be impossible to find parts for one day when you can just change it to something else? I can't see being that paranoid about keeping things original. If you don't want to have any problems with your car, store it in a container and don't put miles on it and watch it waste away. I have something close to the Yugo and that's my beater 88 GMC S-15 and I have my 70 Monte Carlo that I was driven around by my parents when I was little in my car seat that is sentimental and will never leave the family so maybe this is why I say this. A car is only worth a certain amount as long as there is a buyer out there, remember that. Honestly, I would rather pay more money for a Reatta that has been converted to RWD with a LSx engine and six speed because that would be so FUN to drive! And don't get me wrong, having the Reatta "original" with OE parts (because I know you can't beat OE/Delco parts) is wonderful, but I the reason I use GM parts is not to "retain value," but for my own sake of knowing that I will have a dependable, long lasting vehicle. And if you think it's "odd to purchase a vehicle as an investment" then you look at cars that sell on Barret Jackson and tell me what those guys are doing. A few years later some might be back on the auction block trying to get more money so don't tell me that people never think of that!

The way I look at it, the more miles I can put on a car successfully (no accidents, major repairs, etc) the more it's paid for itself and I have no reason to get a lot of money out of it. I think it would be so cool one day to be the only Reatta out there with 1,000,000 miles! Not very realistic because it would take me over 10 years to get there, but how cool would that be? THAT is a car worth admiring, because it will go down in history as a dependable, great driving vehicle.

I'm sorry, but I don't remember the last time a Yugo has been considered a sought-after collector/classic car. Your Reatta might get $450 if it has been rolled over, tailight missing, engine and transmission missing, windshield, and no interior, but why do you think that one day the Reatta's average price will go down to $450 when the cars are getting rarer and the price of everything is increasing? That seems silly.

The fact is: Most cars loose value and there is not much we can do but enojoy and drive the hell out of them. And some cars increase value. What determines that? The market. People aren't going to know what a Reatta is (most don't already) but I'll still be drving mine around, making people wonder, and who knows, maybe I'll spike and interest in somebody and they'll want to go find one! That would be great!

Lastly, wouldn't Reatta owners like you who maintain their vehicles in "original" condition only hurt the value of your car because there are more "originals" out there. The modified Reattas are the ones that I think would help yours, at least for the buyer who is looking for "originality." Most of the young market would look for a custom painted Reatta maybe with a turbo or custom exhaust or something. (Not saying me) You see, I beleive it all depends and I hope I didn't come off on the wrong foot. You can do whatever you want to your vehicles, but please don't come to me and brag me how much your car is "worth" because to me, my Reatta is not about making money. Maybe somebody can enojoy my Reatta the same way I did if something ever happened to me because I have no plans to sell it!

-Ryan

P.S. I worked at a GM dealership for 3 1/2 years and I have all OE parts on my car, except for the tune up and maintainence stuff. Even the thermostat housing bolt is GM when I lost it! I don't want anybody thinking my car is hacked up because it certainly isn't.

[Guest ChevroletR]

And I also agree, "To each is own."

Ryan

[Guest F14CRAZY]

With my coupe, I feel its fine to retrofit and upgrade things while keeping it still a Reatta. I like knowing I have Buick's halo car, which was hand assembled in small numbers, and looks like nothing else. I like keeping the spirit of the car, but I should be free to make it better using modern parts. Nothing is wrong with upgrades, as long as it's "tasteful", reliable, looks good, etc. Some of this is opinion, however, a lot of it is true. Like I didn't settle with just two bolts holding in my clutch pedal, because I felt there was too much side to side flex in it. I'm doing my best not to cobble up anything, though some things are difficult; there's no template, instructions, or much existing information on where to cut the firewall to fit a G6 pedal and master cylinder, which itself was custom made. I use good measuring, checking, test fitting, and all that, but in a way I'm shooting in the dark.

If you want to take it to an extreme, I'm fixing the car's faults, mostly upgrading its performance.

Maui once came up with like a poetic paragraph that I can't seem to find regarding this subject a few years ago.

BTW, ZZ Performance, a 3800/Grand Prix performance shop says they're developing a 12'' brake kit. I'm pretty sure this would fit our cars when they release it

[Guest ChevroletR]

I agree. I understand what the car is and I think it's awesome, but when you have to change something and you know it's for the better, well then what decision is left to make? I'm always up for some larger from brakes if it's for my safety! Nicely put F14Crazy.

Ryan

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Thanks.

And as I mentioned, when I get "Project GS" done I'll check into the '91+ ABS

[DAVES89]

I ordered from Jim the 2 front ABS brake sensor leads. I will replace those and hopefully the light will go back out. In the meantime I pulled my front trim piece and put black electrical tape over the amber bulb only. I too didn't like the brightness of the amber warning light.

[DAVES89]

Replaced the front brake sensor leads. Amber light is now out. Cost $50.00 from Jim. No amber light glare... almost priceless.