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Ok, Whats the problem?


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Ok, im still geting around 14mpg. When i drive in town it goes down towards low 13 an on the highway if i dont use the accelerator much i can get high 14s but no more than 14.8. Ive changed the O2 sensor and now when i drive in diognostics mode the oxygen triangle lights up every so often and just for a few seconds when before it was constantly lit. Now the LOOP is constantly lit when im driving and doesnt go out. What does this mean and could it be the problem? Thanks <BR>Jim

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There is much information on testing the EGR in the manual. You can literally open and close each of the 3 valves(solenoids).<P>Information on Cleaning from a previous post of mine.<P>Cleaning EGR Valve;<BR>Undo the electrical connector on the top. The EGR valve is bolted to the rear of the engine with 2 nuts on studs (if I remember correctly, if not bolts). Remove nuts. There is a gasket between the housing and the EGR valve. Carefully giggle the EGR valve free. It is a hefty piece of metal and will weigh more than you think.<P>Remove and set the gasket aside. You will be able to reuse it again. You will see 2 or 3 channels in the bottom (something about that failing memory having not done this recently) Remove as much of the carbon as you can. Scraping, brushing and using fuel injector cleaners etc. <P>Next remove the three long bolts/nuts with torx heads and the iron core end solenoids separate from the bottom body where the channels are. you will recognize it when you see it.<P>You will be able to remove the 3 solenoids. I would recommend one at a time as I would prefer that they went back into the same hole. Wet a paper towel with fuel injector cleaner and clean off the solenoid. It to me looks like it is ceramic. I believe that the dirt you will be removing is a combination of carbon and iron oxide (rust). <P>Next take another paper towel that is damp with fuel injector cleaner and insert it into the hole the solenoid came out of. Again you are removing carbon and iron oxide. My belief is that as this builds up it just might bind and interfere with the proper motion of the solenoid. Repeat with the other two holes and solenoids. I put them back in dry. I don't think that any lubrication is required. With hot exhaust gasses flowing through the valve it would probably cook any normal lubricant that you used and cause the solenoid to seize.<P>At the end of the solenoid is the pinttel(I think that is what it is called?) In any event remove as much of the dirt from them as you can.<P>There will also be a steel plate with three holes in it that the pinttel seals to and the solenoid open as per ECM signals. Clean the seats very well. As I recall I kept them wet with fuel injector cleaner and just kept moving the parts together in a figure 8 grinding motion until all the carbon gunk was removed. This will seal the chambers better than before and it will also allow the ECM to control the opening and closing (sealing) better.<P>Reassemble, bolt back to engine and use a silicone grease to lubricate rubber gasket seal on the electrical connector. I also used Pro Gold (ProGold GxL could be better with DetoxIT products 5, 6 and 7 Conditioner, Preservative & Lubricant <BR>for Electrical Connections ) on the electrical connections.<P>After I did mine I felt that the engine idle was smoother and I grew more hair (sorry different commercial)<P>In any event I found that there was dirt, carbon and rust that was removed and I believe that I improved the seal on all of the pinttels. Costs just about nothing to do yourself and personally I felt much better knowing the condition. Another reason to do it is because you can!!!<P>There are other things on the Quad driver. If this doesn't fix the error codes it certainly will not harm anything.<P>Just my 2 cents, good luck, Robert<P><B>PS Anyone??? If you do this, I would challenge you to take notes, record wrench and bolt sizes and modify my instructions so they will be clearer and a reference material for all. Just an idea???<BR></B><BR>Sounds much harder than it really is. I would rate it a 2 Brengirl evidently didn't even break a sweat or nail. smile.gif" border="0<p>[ 03-30-2002: Message edited by: Easily Distracted by Shiny Objects ]

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Looks like your diagnostics are working properly. The O2 light is suppose to go on and off and its voltage fluctuate. And once the car is warmed up and cruising along, the (closed) loop light should be on. So all your readings look OK.<P>Your gas mileage is way low. Are you actually computing your mileage at fill up time or relying on the CRT readout for MPG. I wouldn't trust the CRT MPG. My CRT MPG is usually around 22 or 23. I get about that around town and maybe 28 on the freeway. smile.gif" border="0

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