Dave_B Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 This is an up date on an earlier post. I have been having trouble with a bad oil leak in the rear wheel of my '28 std touring. I have changed the seal twice over the years and it still leaked. Recently I had the brain storm to look at the bearing race where the felt seal makes contact(duh). Well looks like this may be the problem. It is damaged from I know not what. Maybe it got coroded during one of the cars long dorment periods. I don't know. Anyway I need to resurface the surface the seal rides on. So far I have tried rubbing it with 220 wet/dry paper with some oil on the paper. This improved it some but I am open to any other ideas. I have changed the seal yet again, this time useing a modern seal. Check out the Picture. So far the oil leak has at least slowed down if not stopped altogether. It is hard to tell, I am still cleaning up the mess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rlbleeker Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 Can't really tell from the photo whether it's applicable to your case, but Speedy Sleeves can often be used to repair worn seal surfaces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_B Posted September 21, 2007 Author Share Posted September 21, 2007 Thanks for the reply. I have used something similar on the front end of crank shafts to get a better fit for the oil seal in the timing chain cover. I'm just not sure how it would work in this case. Can they be ordered by size? or by aplication? Who sells 'em? If one could be found and set in the area of the seal contact that just might work.Thanks, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rlbleeker Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 They are selected by diameter and width after measuring the shaft. I get them at the bearing house. Take a look here: SKF-Speedi-Sleeves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_B Posted September 22, 2007 Author Share Posted September 22, 2007 Thanks for the info. I will definatly check it out.Thanks, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foy Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Dave B.I note that you have removed the hub, wheel & rear axle.I have a 1931 Buick Model 57, I am trying to pull the wheel and hub from the axle while on the car. No luck, it is stuck, what did you do?Any info. you could give me may help.Thanks,Foyjeanniefoy@bex.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_B Posted October 3, 2007 Author Share Posted October 3, 2007 Hi Foy, Normally you would use a hub puller to take the hub off the axel. So, as always, it helps to have the right tool. I have one but I have had trouble in the past, so I find it is easier to take the hub out with the axel. It is really simple. The axel is retained on the inboard end with a large nut held in place with a cotter pin. I drain the rear oil, remove the diff cover, take out the cotter pin, remove the nut. With the wheel jacked up, grab the wheel turn and pull and out it comes. To install reverse the order. I guess it is a similar setup in a '31.Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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