No heat! And it's cold!

[Guest]

My 1989 Reatta's heat stopped working about 2 wks ago. I didn't mind much because Wisconsin seemed to be enjoying an early Spring. Now it's 4 below and so is my car's interior. <P>Bear in mind, my vents have never worked properly (I'm thinking it's the actuator problem you all mention from time to time). But at least I could get warm air on the floor and from the defroster. Now both are downright Arctic.<P>If someone can point me in the right direction, perhaps I'll know how to bluff my way through the impending talk with my mechanic. He knows nothing about Reattas in particular but he does know cars, so usually he wins. This time--just for once--I'd like to be able to go in there knowing something ahead of time and not do my talking with my checkbook.<P>I have a similar A/C problem as well, but Wisconsin gets colder than it does hot so I haven't bothered fixing the A/C. My car just rolled past 100k miles last week.<P>Oh yes--I can occasionally "trick" it into putting out some heat. It seems if I turn the climate control on & off and rapidly switch among the defrost, heater, and bi-level I can get enough result to thaw my right foot so I can feel the gas pedal.<P>Thanks, you guys run a great forum.

[Guest wally888]

Probably the Air Mix(Blend) door. I understand the door can jam? (May be frozen in the cold position! This could be funny if the right person was reading!)<BR> I have replaced 2 actuators but for other doors. Wifes Caddy has 5 Volt Motor for Blend door. The Caddy needs door wired open in winter/closed in summer. All true but I must take to dealer. In the good old days there was a cable to the door, easy to operate!<BR> 88 and 89 Diagnostics will tell you the exact position of each door, need a Manual! <BR> Enough B. S.<BR> It appears the Blend or Air Mix door in the Reatta is Electrically driven. All the other doors are driven by Vacum.<BR> You can see the Programmer, P. Motor and Air Mix Door arm if you remove the Glove Box.<BR> If you want to follow the Manuals instructions, watch the Arm as you change temp. settings from 65* to 90*. Yours probably won't move!<BR> But if you want to get immediately to the matter at hand, disconnect the Arm from the Door. Be careful ( It may easily disconnect by holding a little clip open while twisting arm 90* , as the Caddy).<BR> If the engine is warm when you move door, heat will flow. Leave arm disconnected and wire it open till summer!<BR> If the door is sticking......<BR> Let us know?

[Guest]

Thanks. . . I hope you'll understand if you don't hear a progress report for a few days. I'm going to wait until it warms up so my extremities won't freeze while I'm messing with the 1989 Albatross. <P>I really appreciate your suggestion and I'm willing to give anything a try before I part with a paycheck or two.

[Barney Eaton]

The rod that opens and closes the air control valve(door) is behind the glove box.<BR>Remove the glove box liner and you will see this round rod going from an arm on the right to the left (I don't remember if you can see where it goes)<P>With the glove box liner removed, start the car (warm) and change the temperature setting to see if it moves. You can disconnect the right side and move it manually and you should get heat.<P>Several possible problems, most likely a vacumn leak, second possibility the controller where it is attached is bad.<BR>This is asuming you can manually move the door.

[Guest wally888]

Amy, after reading further , you may have 2 problems.<BR> If door is not stuck, the problem is probably the D.C. motor that operates the door. But it could be the info supplied to the motor by the Climate Control or , if like Caddy, feedback from motor ( getting over my head here!) The Caddy has 5 wires to the motor connection and I think polarity reverses..............way over my head now.<BR> 2nd. possible problem- If you can move door resulting in heat to....someplace. If the someplace isn't correct for the Setting, you may have an Actuator problem also.<BR> Gotta sell this Manual! I don't own an 88, 89 or 90!

[Guest]

You guys are great! You've given me a lot to chew on and I'm actually looking forward to working on this.<P>One question: if I have an actuator problem, which I'm sure I do given my history of problems getting ANY temperature of air from the vents, that wouldn't somehow in the alter-universe of Reattaland cause the heat to quit heating, would it? I've always been able to feel if the tiny stream of air from the vent was warm or cold. Now it's just REALLY cold.<P>Okay, I lied--two questions. About six weeks ago, while driving merrily along with my car's approximation of heat keeping me comfortable, the service A/C warning came on and told me the compressor (I think it says compressor) has been shut down to prevent further damage. I hadn't been near the A/C control since July so I disregarded the warning as a Reatta quirk. Could or does this have something to do with my current heating problem?<P>Has anyone ever heard the old adage, "The rich get their ice in the summer but the poor get theirs in the winter"? I kind of feel like that. My car will keep you comfortably cool--in winter. My car will also keep you toasty warm--in summer. Gotta keep a sense of humor about it. I can still smile while my teeth are chattering.<P>Again, thanks so much. I only just looked for this forum today out of desperation, and you've already come through for me.

[Guest]

The very first thing to consider is does the temperature gauge come up to approximately the mid-point on the gauge. It could be something as simple as a defective thermostat. I didn't have any heat this fall and my temperature gauge would only move approximately 1/4 off of cold. I replaced the thermostat and now the engine heats up to half way between hot and cold on the gauge and my heater is good and hot. I hope your this lucky!

[padgett]

In most GM cars you need to be doublejointed to get at the bar, in the Reatta, all you need to do is to remove the glove box & everything is laid out infront of you.<P>Would make sure of vaccuum feed first (is what changes the mode from DEF (the default) to vents.<P>The blend rod determines the heat/cool air mix. Has nothing to do with which vent it comes out of.<P>In order to get heat, you must have a thermostat but heat will become noticable if full on (and the coolant line to the heater is not bypassed/off/clogged) at 100-110F and roast when above 160F.<P>Must have all three to work properly.

[Howard]

As I write this I'm holding in my hand the A/C programer. The rod behind the glovebox everyone is talking about connects to this programer. The servo motor is part of the controller. If you adjust you temp control between 65 and 85 and don't see this arm move, I would suspect the A/C programer. I had to replace mine about two years ago for an A/C problem. The CRT kept saying a climate control problem was happening. I replaced the controller, and no more problems. Also make sure there is nothing jamed up near the rod that would keep it from moving. Howard

[Guest wally888]

Howard. Are the programmer/controler and the Motor, all, one part # or can they be bought seperately?

[Guest]

Mine works just not very well. Somebody help us before we both freeze.