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Dodge Deluxe

Help needed with a 1939 Dodge D-11 Deluxe

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Carl,

I got my wipers working last season, the horn was the only electrical piece that was still giving me trouble, but now I'm good to go there too! As far as the drums, I was actually quite amazed at how easy they came off. I bought a puller from JC Whitney and it worked like a charm. I like the idea of resourcing together for parts, I'll definitely keep in touch. Maybe we can each make a list of what we are needing and what we have extra of that we would be willing to sell or trade. Regarding dash gauges, I was needing an oil pressure gauge for my dash and was lucky enough to find one on ebay, so keep looking there and some gauges may turn up. Just gotta be at the right place at the right time. I have a link posted in a prior post on this thread to some pics. I'd like to see some pics of your '39 as well.

Choclatetown, I'm going to make it down to Hershey at some point, I hear it's a great show. I think it was you who told me it's better then Carlisle. If I give Mika a ride... he's going to have to come meet me down here, cause I'm definitely not picking him up!

Dan

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There has GOT to be a better way! I've almost got my brakes all back together and I will be ready to bleed them soon, so I wanted to make sure that the master cylinder was full. To try to get to it under the hood was very difficult, so I lifted the carpet and saw screws along the floor board. I ended up having to remove the screws around the steering column grommet, then the gas pedal, then the carpet, then remove the floor panels, two of them, to gain access to the master cylinder. When lifting the floor panels I accidentally yanked the wires from the dimmer switch and had to figure out what went where. Then, was able to fill the master cylinder by lying under the steering column. Is there an easier way??? Just seems like an awful lot to go through to add some brake fluid. I saw a special glass filling container pictured in my Dodge Service Manual, but I would think the odds of finding one of those would be slim to none.

Dan

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Dan there should be a panel about 3''x5''in your floor panel directly above the master cylinder , it is held in by only one screw , that gives access to your master cylinder. all you have to do is pull back the carpet undo one screw, remove the panel and the cylinder is easily got at.

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Yes, I saw that. That was the first thing I had removed actually, but it was no where close to the filler plug. When I removed that small access panel, the rubber boot was directly underneath, not the filler plug.

Dan

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I have made the following adaption to make master cylinder filling easier. Replace the fiber washer on the filler plug and also I drilled a hole right through the top, to which I fitted a brass fitting and rubber hose and plum the other end to a remote brake reservior that I fitted to the firewall. Don't forget to block the little breather hole in the top of the plug that is in the master cylinder or your brake fluid to gravity feed down and out through that hole.

Now brake top up is easy as lift the side hood, tip in more and go. You can often pull the plastic remote reserviors off wrecked trucks.

post-41727-143137986854_thumb.jpg

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Dave,

That's pretty slick. Something for me to consider, for now anyways I guess I'm going to rough it.

I installed the rear shoes and drums today. I have not bled them yet, but I pumped up the pedal to see if I had any pressure, there was not any pressure, but I really didn't expect there to be after rebuilding all four wheel cylinders and not bleeding them yet. I did notice that there appears to be a leak at the dust boot of the master cylinder, where the push rod goes in. So I think tomorrow I'm going to pull the master out and rebuild that too, I have a kit for it so I might as well do it now while I have everything all apart anyways. Not looking forward to it, but what the hey, you gotta do what ya gotta do...

Also... My service manual says to tighten the nut on the axle shaft to 120 ft lbs. I do not have a torque wrench, so I tightened them up good and tight and then backed them off to the first hole for the cotter pin, am I alright there?

Dan

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I would not back the nut off. I would get a cheater bar and take it to the next notch. I think now that you have backed it off it is awfully close to loose already. 120 lbs is a hefty amount to acheive.

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I have the exact same car. I too have one wheel that likes to stick if in place for any time. I'll try the same trick you did. Good luck.When they run they are great.

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I would not back the nut off. I would get a cheater bar and take it to the next notch. I think now that you have backed it off it is awfully close to loose already. 120 lbs is a hefty amount to acheive.

I agree.....don't back it off for the cotter pin to fit.

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