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Help needed with a 1939 Dodge D-11 Deluxe


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Hi Dan. I assume you have packed it away for the winter from your last post. I can share the feelings you've indicated .Went through much of the same with my '38 D8.I have a NOS oil pressure guage for a '38. From what has been said about the pressure and that the guae remained "pegged", I would think that the brasstube in the guage distorted past the normal limit. There is a guy in Arkansas at Williams Inst.s that can repair the original for a reasonable price. At least his charges were reasonable to me, and I avoided the to hunt for replacements.I think he does have a website.

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  • 5 months later...

Well, spring is here and I'm back at it again. Hope everyone is doing well. Just came back from Carlisle, bought a brand new waterpump, wheel cylinder kits, master cylinder kit, a nice set of Unity 6v amber fog lights, and some automobila. I started work on the Dodge again today, I removed the hood and side panels, then pulled the fan and waterpump, then pulled the radiator. I am going to turn the radiator upside down and flush it out again. I need to get a look inside now and see what the water distribution tube looks like, I have a new replacement one if needed. Then I'll install the new waterpump. I'm hoping this will get my overheating problem corrected. If so, then it's on to the brakes and clutch. I was able to find another oil pressure gauge over the winter, that's on the to do list as well.

Dan

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Was able to get a look at the water distribution tube and it looks good and solid. All complete, and actually quite shiny. So I decided on not pulling it out and changing it. I installed the new waterpump and gasket, I flushed out the radiator upside down, then re-installed. New gaskets on the thermostat gooseneck and heater bypass. All back together now and hopefully ending my overheating problem. Now I directed my attention to the brakes, pulled the front wheels yesterday, the shoes were actually in good quite condition, as were the drums. I rebuilt the front wheel cylinders and repacked the inner and outer wheel bearings. Waiting on a wheel puller tool that I just ordered so I can do the rear now. Then I might rebuild the master cylinder next after that.

I worked on the frozen clutch, I blocked the pedal and removed the inspection plate. I was able to get a putty knife all the way around as I clicked the starter to turn the flywheel to move it full circle. So it appears to be free from the flywheel.

Dan

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  • 4 weeks later...

Greetings all,

Moving right along in the resto on my '39 D11 but ran into a few things I could use some help on. I have rebuilt the front brakes, and repacked the inner and outer bearings. Now I am working on the rear. I have rebuilt the rear wheel cylinders, and sent the shoes out for re-lining, and the rear drums are being turned.

First question... as I said I have removed the rear drums so I could rebuild the wheel cylinders and get the brakes working. One side was leaking rear axle oil into the drum and contaminated the shoes. I pulled the brake mounting plate and rear axle outer oil seal. I have replaced the oil seal with a new one, and in reassembling, I have forgotten where the two thin metal shims go? Are they behind the brake mounting plate, or are they supposed to go in front of the brake mounting plate and behind the axle outer oil seal? I believe that they belong behind the brake mounting plate, between the axle housing and the brake mounting plate. Meaning that the shims would go on first, then the brake mounting plate, then the oil seal gasket, then the oil seal. Am I correct?

Second question, I was able to get one horn to sound, one will not. The test light shows it is getting power to it but it will not sound. What would cause this? Just a bad horn? Would it be the relay?

Regards;

Dan

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Hi Dan,

According to my 39 dodge parts book...

Do these plates have 5 bolt holes?

Those plates come between rear axle housing and "axle drive shaft bearing oil seal"

I think that if the horn gets power but does not honk wink.gif then it's a bad horn.

If the relay is bad, the horn wouldn't get any power .

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Yes, my plates have five bolt holes. My Dodge service manual shows a diagram with them between the rear axle housing and oil seal as well, BUT... the diagram does not picture the brake mounting plate at all anywhere, so I really cannot go by that picture. Does your service manual show the brake mounting plate in the diagram that you are looking at?

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dodge Deluxe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, my plates have five bolt holes. My Dodge service manual shows a diagram with them between the rear axle housing and oil seal as well, BUT... the diagram does not picture the brake mounting plate at all anywhere, so I really cannot go by that picture. Does your service manual show the brake mounting plate in the diagram that you are looking at? </div></div>

I guess we are looking at the same picture, BUT, why would the shim plates be after the brake shield(on the drum side)? I guess the shim plates should tight up the horizonal movement of the rear wheel bearing?

(wow, i hope you understand what I mean with my english smile.gif )

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I have the shims installed correctly, I looked in my 1942 "Audel's New Automobile Guide" and there was a good picture, they do indeed go behind the brake mounting plate. I've got the wheel cylinder on now and just waiting to get the shoes and drums back from being relined and resurfaced.

As far as the horns, the shorter of the two will sound but not the longer one. I tried rapping it with a small hammer, no go. Where are these contacts some of you mentioned? Do I need to open up the horn itself?

Dan

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Theres nothing wrong with your english Mike i understood every thing you wrote, and you are right the shims do go on before the backing plate, i have a 39 DeSoto which along with the 39 Chrysler uses the same diff as the Dodge , and that is where they are on my car,and also on a spare diff that i have which actually came out of a 39 Dodge D11

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I'll tell you what if all keeps going smooth I'll be to that point here soon, hopefully. So far, so good...

I won't be ready in time for the AACA show here in July, but with any luck I'll get a chance to be behind the wheel and on the road before the end of summer.

Dan

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I just got 39 dodge coupe 3 months ago, the windshield wipers are electric and up under the left dash,,positive ground on the battery hookup, it will take a heck of a puller to get the rear drums off !! might have to heat them with torch as I did .. I would like to see some photos .. I'm looking for a 39 Overdrive trans for my rig and dash gauges .. SWCARL@hotmail.com let me know if I can help you more and maybe help with parts for you and me... Carl

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Carl,

I got my wipers working last season, the horn was the only electrical piece that was still giving me trouble, but now I'm good to go there too! As far as the drums, I was actually quite amazed at how easy they came off. I bought a puller from JC Whitney and it worked like a charm. I like the idea of resourcing together for parts, I'll definitely keep in touch. Maybe we can each make a list of what we are needing and what we have extra of that we would be willing to sell or trade. Regarding dash gauges, I was needing an oil pressure gauge for my dash and was lucky enough to find one on ebay, so keep looking there and some gauges may turn up. Just gotta be at the right place at the right time. I have a link posted in a prior post on this thread to some pics. I'd like to see some pics of your '39 as well.

Choclatetown, I'm going to make it down to Hershey at some point, I hear it's a great show. I think it was you who told me it's better then Carlisle. If I give Mika a ride... he's going to have to come meet me down here, cause I'm definitely not picking him up!

Dan

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There has GOT to be a better way! I've almost got my brakes all back together and I will be ready to bleed them soon, so I wanted to make sure that the master cylinder was full. To try to get to it under the hood was very difficult, so I lifted the carpet and saw screws along the floor board. I ended up having to remove the screws around the steering column grommet, then the gas pedal, then the carpet, then remove the floor panels, two of them, to gain access to the master cylinder. When lifting the floor panels I accidentally yanked the wires from the dimmer switch and had to figure out what went where. Then, was able to fill the master cylinder by lying under the steering column. Is there an easier way??? Just seems like an awful lot to go through to add some brake fluid. I saw a special glass filling container pictured in my Dodge Service Manual, but I would think the odds of finding one of those would be slim to none.

Dan

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Dan there should be a panel about 3''x5''in your floor panel directly above the master cylinder , it is held in by only one screw , that gives access to your master cylinder. all you have to do is pull back the carpet undo one screw, remove the panel and the cylinder is easily got at.

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I have made the following adaption to make master cylinder filling easier. Replace the fiber washer on the filler plug and also I drilled a hole right through the top, to which I fitted a brass fitting and rubber hose and plum the other end to a remote brake reservior that I fitted to the firewall. Don't forget to block the little breather hole in the top of the plug that is in the master cylinder or your brake fluid to gravity feed down and out through that hole.

Now brake top up is easy as lift the side hood, tip in more and go. You can often pull the plastic remote reserviors off wrecked trucks.

post-41727-143137986854_thumb.jpg

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Dave,

That's pretty slick. Something for me to consider, for now anyways I guess I'm going to rough it.

I installed the rear shoes and drums today. I have not bled them yet, but I pumped up the pedal to see if I had any pressure, there was not any pressure, but I really didn't expect there to be after rebuilding all four wheel cylinders and not bleeding them yet. I did notice that there appears to be a leak at the dust boot of the master cylinder, where the push rod goes in. So I think tomorrow I'm going to pull the master out and rebuild that too, I have a kit for it so I might as well do it now while I have everything all apart anyways. Not looking forward to it, but what the hey, you gotta do what ya gotta do...

Also... My service manual says to tighten the nut on the axle shaft to 120 ft lbs. I do not have a torque wrench, so I tightened them up good and tight and then backed them off to the first hole for the cotter pin, am I alright there?

Dan

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I would not back the nut off. I would get a cheater bar and take it to the next notch. I think now that you have backed it off it is awfully close to loose already. 120 lbs is a hefty amount to acheive.

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  • 5 years later...
I would not back the nut off. I would get a cheater bar and take it to the next notch. I think now that you have backed it off it is awfully close to loose already. 120 lbs is a hefty amount to acheive.

I agree.....don't back it off for the cotter pin to fit.

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