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hey guys i use valvoline max life for engines with high mileage my 89 has 161 k. anyone have input on what oils are best. also what about synthetic, i use them on newer cars, are our reattas too old for that?

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I have used synthetic oils for the past 7 years and have had the best results with engines with fewer than 40K on them. I used it once on a car with 110K and developed many leaks. I have a 89 LeSabre with 168K that has had synthetic in it since the motor had 8K. This car had oil changes every 5K and runs like it is new. The long and the short of it is I wouldn't use the synthetic on an older car, there is too much downside and not enough upside.

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Guest C.F.Massie

Like an old dog your Reatta is never to old to learn a new trick. Synthetic oil is fine, I used regular Castrol in my family's cars for years and now I use Castrol Synthetic. A lot of talk out there about regular vs synthetic and so far I can't see what all the talk is really about. I used to change oil every 3k miles religiously and now I do it every 5k with the synthetic, it may not need to that soon but its a habit that I can't seem to shake. Yes regular oil is cheaper but synthetic will last longer and doesn't break down under heat as regular oil will, and we all know that heat kills! <BR>Suffice to say it can't hurt to change.<P>I have switched all my gas burning mechanical monsters (motorcyccles, lawn mower, cars) to synthetic. I like to think I'm conserving natural resources also by using synthetic, maybe I'm not but it makes me feel good. tongue.gif" border="0

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I use 4 quarts of Castrol 5W-30 and one quart of Moblil-1 5W-30. Also use larger size Pure-One filter (fits Corvette also)for<BR>added capacity and cooling. I change every 3000 miles.

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For a mild climate like Florida, I just use Valvoline 10W-30 though will also use either Castrol or Pennsoil. I change both oil and filter, usually when I see a 3-5 psi drop in the oil pressure (generally between 2 and 3k miles) which indicates to me that the long chain polymers are breaking down.<P>Have only experienced two oil related failures - one on the race track when the engine ran out at 6 grand plus and one when the Bonne dropped the center cam bearings in Indiana at -20F (still running and all components looked good 1,200 miles later just no oil pressure indicated at idle).

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What are the various arguments on viscosity? I would have thought that in hotter climates, I would see folks using 10-40 or even 20-50, particularly in the higher mileage engines. I am tempted to use Castrol 20-50 in San Diego, but given that 30 weights are the norm, I have been staying with 10-30. I just don't know why.

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I usually just read these posts and don't have much for comment, but in regard to engine oil; I found that I was leaking about a quart every 1000 miles when using the factory recommended 5w-30. My 89 has around 200k on(it my wife commutes daily in it)I had my oil changed at Wal-mart and they put 10w-30 in it(because they don't listen)and to my suprise it only leaks 1 quart every 3 thousand miles. I can't complain about the service my Reatta has given me, and for all these years and miles, I have been using Wal-Mart's generic Supertech oil that they claim is manufactured by Quaker State. The reality is that all motor oils have to meet a particular standard, which corresponds with their label (SJ,SJIS,SI, etc.)whether it be Joe schmoes or Mobiles best there are only about 8 major oil producers, so of the hundreds of brands that are out there, some must overlap. Synthetics are a different story completely, and I will stop rambling and save that for another post.

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A couple things, the new synthetic oils have seal conditioner additive so the leak problem of the old days are gone.<P>I run 5w50 synthetic in all my engines all year round, all I own are diesels. Here in Canada temps run as low as -40 celcius, I don't have a problem because even 5w50 synthetic oil is thinner at this temp than 5w30 mineral based oils. Stick it in your freezer and see for yourself.

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I prefer 10W-30 because my climate allows and less "improvers" are required.<P>Agree that "oil is oil" to a great extent but generally use a premium (buy cases when on sale) and change the filter every time.<P>As mentioned and because of the Jaguars of my yout, I change mainly on oil pressure - when a 10% drop when hot is seen, it gets changed and as mentioned that is usually at 2-3k miles. Also usually change before and after a long trip. Probably too often but is cheap and easy.<P>As to what viscosity, most of our 3800s have a spec of 40 psi at 1800 rpm. Since mine reads above 50 psi when full hot on 10w-30, I do not worry about it.

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Personally I run Mobil I in all my vehicles and my snowblower. Synthetics have demonstrably better properties than dino oil, however, is it really needed? That debate has been going on for years. All modern oils are better and meet tougher standards than what came in our cars to begin with. I agree that the leak problem is gone, my old Taurus winter car has never had a problem and I made the switch when it had over 100k on it. The one caution about too heavy a weight engine oil is the load it places on the oil pump and drive. If oil pressure is satisfactory, and oil consumption is tolerable, heavier oil will not provide any benefit and probably just bypasses the relief valve in the oil pump/filter area. Bearing clearances are pretty tight on these engines and heavier oil than needed just causes additional load on the internals of the engine. Just my .02.

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Enjoyed reading the posts on this subject. It brings a question to mind. Is their any truth to the idea that once you get into high mileage, it is best not to change brands of oil? I would like to go to Mobil 1 but have resisted.<BR>Steve

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I use Valvoline oil and have for years and always change including filter at 3000 mile intervals. I use 5w30 in the 90 Reatta,89 Camry and 5w30 synthetic in the 2001 Impala<BR>LS. As for my garage queen 70 Chevelle I run 20w-50w racing oil. I have had many engines run without rebuilding for 260k + miles so I must be doing something right. Just my 2 cents worth!<BR>ronvb wink.gif" border="0

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I use Castrol 5W-50 Syntec in everything!!!! Yes everything that uses oil gets synthetics be it 40 bellow or as hot as you can imagine. <P>If the engine is new, put synthetic in at the first change. If you buy used put synthetic in right away. <P>Have used Syntec, Penzoil, Mobil 1, Amsoil and some no-names. Masoil is probably ythe best but$$$ Syntec to me is a very close second. <P>Like the PureOne PL24011 Robert

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I like the topic. Here's my 2 cents worth. <P> I run Mobil 1 synthetic in my daily drivers, mostly due to the fact that I am lazy and don't like to do oil changes. I change the oil when it does'nt smell or feel right, typically 5-7000 miles combo driving, upto 10,000 strictly highway. The truck and the boat get 10-40 semi-synthetic valvoline, due to their and frequent changes. Helps reduce cost, and valvoline is the cleanest non-synthetic oil I've seen. I change the oil often on these due to the abuse. <P> A good friend runs a 32' Baja that I just built 2 454 big blocks, and after a high speed run, the switch from normal oil to castrol synthetic improved idle pressure over 10 psi. The important part is that idle oil psi was the same with synthetic after severe abuse as before, unlike the regular oil, which showed at least a 10 psi drop after heating up.<P> Another observation on this topic is the use of engine oil life monitors by GM. The EOM(Engine Oil life Monitor) actually counts crankshaft rotations and coolant temp cycles. This is a long discussion, but I will suffice it to say that in my environment, most oil changes at 3000 miles show about 50% oil life. I think this monitor works well(based on the theory), but none of my cars has one, and I judge my oil on feel and smell.

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