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  1. I bought this car back in 1989 in Coutts, Alberta, Canada. It is coming along but I have moved a number of times and life has got in the way of completing this project... I will get there... Just now getting a shop built will be my first project. The car has been back and forth across Canada twice and I still seem to have all the parts... I will start at the beginning and bring this story up to date over the next few months. In 1989 there was an auction of a "museum" in Coutts Alberta. It was a 5 day auction and there was lots of non car stuff there as well. There were about 80 or so vehicles in various states of completeness... Only 2 actually ran. I went down ahead and determined there were 5 cars I would be interested in (all touring cars). I ended up buying the second best one (in my mind) and also the cheapest one at $350.00. I think the 1922 Studebaker would have been a better car and it was the larger model of Studebaker. Mine was marked as a 1917 McLaughlin but as I found out later it was a 1919. It also turned out to be a HA63 special... besides the tag the references I have found say that the specials had the yellow painted wood spoke wheels... and this car had that.. I only lived an hour or so from the auction so after paying for my car I headed home rented a trailer and went back and picked it up... It was a bit of a zoo there as people were picking up vehicles but they did have a make shift tow truck there helping people get cars loaded. Mine happened to be behind a post so we had to lift it sideways before pulling it out. The pics attached were taken a few days later after i took all the stuff out that was piled in the back. I don`t have a pic of that but I suspect it was why most people took a pass on this car.... The back was full of what appeared to be junk and the fender and the door on the top of the pile definitely didn't belong to this car.... My good fortune was that everything else down the pile did belong to the car and I would say the car was at least 90% complete... but it sure was rough.... my kind of project.[ATTACH=CONFIG]222977[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]222978[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]222979[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]222980[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]222981[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]222982[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]222983[/ATTACH]
  2. HI all, This is the ongoing restoration of my 58 Buick Century Riviera in Sri Lanka. It is the only such car known to be in Sri Lanka. If this car was in USA, it would be considered a scrap car. Not even a parts car. However, we are not allowed to import any vehicle over 2 years old into Sri Lanka, so importing a classic is not possible. All we can do, is restore the cars already existing in Sri Lanka, no matter how bad they are and what it costs. Hope you folks find the restoration interesting. Looking forward to comments.
  3. This 1966 VW Beetle Convertible was brought to us by the original owner who wants to restore it to its “original condition, or better!” Purchased in October of 1965, the owner remembers pushing it off the showroom floor in Jacksonville, NC. This sweet vehicle was the family car when the owner and his wife first married, and later became the second vehicle. It was used for trips on back-country roads to picnic with his wife and daughter in Pensacola, FL – where he was stationed as a Marine. The car itself has all its original parts and only 148,000 miles on it and has been a show car for the last 20-25 years.
  4. The owner of this rare 1963 Volkswagen Type 2, 23 Window Bus brought it to us to check it out after another shop did what they called a “full restoration”. Rust was already starting to bubble up under the paint after less than a year. After realizing what had (or rather, hadn’t) been done to it, the customer decided that he would like us to redo the restoration. After stripping the body, we found a lot of body filler covering rust, dents, and improper panel patches – almost an inch thick in some places.
  5. HI there, we (group of mates) have just purchased a 1947 Dodge DD4 60 canadian build truck and are going about restoring it. It is about 90% complete however all in parts. We are having problems finding a manual and are all new to restoring, but have started by breaking it down back to the chassis. Any info or tips would be great.
  6. So, here is what I have, both cars are complete and cancer free. Both bodies are very straight and filler-free. Both need body prep & paint. (no worries about getting them painted) #1 - 1955 Model 56R-Two-Door Super Riviera - Barn Find, All original and complete (short of 2 missing trim pieces). Last licensed in 1967. Original 322 Nailhead engine seized but no noticeable cracks or damage from external inspection. Needs Interior but have all the original seats and panels. #2 - 1955 Model 61-Four-Door Century Tourback Sedan - All original and complete. Last licensed in 1999. Original 322 Nailhead engine has a large hole punched through the side of the block. All other parts seem good from external inspection. Interior complete and somewhat fair condition. #3 - 1955 Special or Century rolling chassy only (no body). Good running 322 Nailhead engine with good Dynaflow tranny. (I can drive the chassy with a string on the throttle and a gas can strapped to the back!) Dropped uprights, new rear knee action shocks, brand new wide-whitewall tires. So, here is what I've been thinking but someone please tell me if I'm crazy. I love #1. The look and style is what I like the most. #2 however, upon a little bit of research, only 13,269 were produced. It seems that most of these were stripped for their engines, parts and left to die. I'm not seeing many at all so I'm wondering if this will eventually be much more valuable?... Nonetheless, the bottom line is that I have other projects as well and I have to sacrifice somewhere. So, I was thinking about a couple of options... Option 1: Pull the engine from #1 and put in the engine from #3 (temporarily). Tear down the #1 engine and see what it takes to get her moving again short of a full $5k rebuild. If easy fix, (rings, seals, etc) get running on rolling chassy to test and put back in original car #1. Put #3 engine in #2, paint it and sell it. Option 2: Put the engine from #3 into #1, pull all parts off of rolling chassy that I want, swap out any other parts that can be used to put on #1 and sell off #2 and #3 with two bad engines. Option 3: Same as Option 2 but part out the #2 Century and scrap what's left. (this option kinda kills me to think about) Option 4: ???? Please give me some good feedback here! Thanks! Oh, and so far I'm only into these about $4,000 total but need to sell one to fund the other.
  7. Hello, this is my first time posting. i have a 1937 REO Truck and have had the vehicle with three different folks to restore over the years. The engine, transmission, brakes and mechanics have been restored and have been completed by a machinist. Now the truck is with another guy and I am feeling a bit frustrated with him. He says he cannot give me an estimate of time to complete the project or an estimate on remaining price to complete the project. His disposition is rude and he has a habit of nickle and diming me. He does not make much progress on the restoration and last month he billed me $2,200 to make a door hinge and latch. I am in a dispute over the mfg of the bed, which he quoted me a completed fixed price, then this month he says it didn't include putting a finish coat on the wood and i have been waiting for a final design drawing of the siding based on what specs i provided to him, I'm sure he will deviate from what we discussed and try to take the cheap way out there too. He wanted me to pay him in advance to finish the bed and i told him i am withholding final payment of $1,500 until I see the design plans and the job is complete. I want to get a reputable restorer to go with me to see the truck and get an assessment as I think I may want to pull the project from him and give it to a reputable person to finish the paint and body and final assembly. The truck is located in San Andreas, CA., i.e., somewhat near Stockton, Lodi, area. Can anyone please provide me with a recommendation and or refer me to a reputable auto body and restorer to go with me to provide advice? The truck is a family heirloom and it is important to me to get the job done right. I have had it with the greedy grouch currently making my life miserable. Sincerely, Mike
  8. 1966 Buick Riviera Mileage Shows 60,724 (not sure if its 60k or 160k) Rusted: Needs to be restored Asking $3,500 Located in Hackensack, NJ - pick-up only - will not ship Call Carmen with any questions, after viewing photos: 201_233...0294 (better to call than email) Or email any questions to brandon_dimartino@yahoo.com
  9. I would be interested in getting any advice/help/experience the group may have on restoring steering wheels for early 30's GM cars. Specifically, I am restoring a 1932 Pontiac. Any advice here? Anybody have experience with the Eastwood or POR-15 restoration kits? Any help appreciated.
  10. One of thing things that I loved about my recently acquired 88-A is the deep throaty rumble of the exhaust. After a recent overall check -up by my local shop (antique auto enthusiasts BTW), I was told that the exhaust system is in a bad way and needs replacing. Which might be why I have that nice rumble. Rather than purchasing a new system from one of the restoration companies, they have offered to build a new one from scratch. I have a couple of questions about this and would appreciate people's opinions. Is the exhaust system something that is checked at car show, would I be penalized for a non "original" or "restoration" system? (I will make sure that the visible part of the system, i.e. the tailpipe at the back bumper, remains the same.) I do like the current deep rumble, and while I would not want a "hot-rod" type loud exhaust I am wondering how to keep what I have. I suspect a repaired muffler might quiet things down quite a bit. Apologies to the community for peppering you with all these questions, I do appreciate all the answers and especially all the discussion around options when available. TIA Stefan P.S. Regarding the first question above, I originally purchased this car to be a weekend driver, just to have fun driving around. However, it is in pretty good condition and I think I have been bitten by the "show bug". So now all decisions about repairs and changes are driven by, what would the impact be on judging .
  11. Hi i'am currently restoring a 1935 dodge and i was wondering how to remove the rear brake drum for brake repair. There is a key pin as in the picture below and i'am not sure how you can remove it to get the brake drum off. hope you can help
  12. There she goes. Being towed off to the shop for the major phases of the restoration that will take until February or March next year to complete. I've been working on this project since October 2006. My plan has always been to do as much of the disassembly as I could with my limited facilities at home while pressing forward with restoration of component parts. Much is finished but much is left to go and most of that is now in much more capable hands than mine. What I thought I would do here is share some of my photos from the work of the past six years while at the same time, posting updates with photos as the work progresses at the shop. The car is a 1949 Super 4dr. Allendale Green. I first saw it sitting for sale at a car repair shop located along my route to work. I drove by it for one whole month and finally the urge was not resistible any longer. I stopped once, twice and brought money on the third visit. Thinking back, I can't believe I waited so long to pull the trigger. The car is a complete, original survivor with factory original paint. The original upholstery was covered with seat covers that bore 1954 manufacturing tags when we got around to the disassembly at the upholstery phase. We drove the car locally and enjoyed it for four years before the restoration was started. I have hundreds of photos and videos taken during the disassembly of this vehicle. Some I will share here to compare the original with the restored. If anyone out there is working on a similar car and you need any reference photos, let me know. Dan
  13. Can any of you in N D give me any information on a shop in West Fargo, Kevin's Paint and Repairs that did restoration work. I recently bought a car that was restored by them and done very well. I would like to contact them but the number I have is disconnected and I can't find any contact information for them. Maybe their out of business, or go by another name. Thanks, Best Regards Bruce bdeane5527@windstream.net
  14. I have recently purchased a 1969 cougar and want to do my first total restoration. Everything on the car is working and operating but I want to modernize it. I plan on doing a complete frame off restoration but I never had done anything with cars and honestly have little clue what order to do things and when to do it. I want to replace the entire suspension, rebuild the engine/ Transmission, four wheel disk brakes, paint the body and frame, replace the chrome, replace the interior, and any other parts. I want to do the most on my own to save money but need advice on what to do first. At this point in the restoration I have everything out of the car except functional parts (it can run and drive). My budget for the entire project is about $17,000. I believe my next step is to remove the engine and everything else from the car, and get the chrome done and rebuild the engine and trans. While that is getting worked on then take the body off the frame and sandblast and paint the frame. Then buy a full performance suspension kit and take it to a local shot to put together. Any tips and advice on what to do next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  15. Finally picked up my first GS weekend before last and trying to get it all straightened out. My dad and I have been working on "refreshing" on an original 57k mile car. Original owner parked partially protected, but outside when brakes went out, it has a cracked or severely warped front drum. All numbers matching we had to replace the carpets and repaint. It's an original ZZ Silver Cloud, but my dad picked the color and decided on a darker silver - grey and added a painted black top. He painted it himself in the driveway, but it's a really good 10 foot job. Has a few spots of cancer in rear wheel well edges and trunk lip but overall a really straight car. Not many options on the car, but it does have power windows, so I have that going for me. A/C? Who needs A/C in a dual quad big block? So far, new plugs, wires, fuel pump, filter, restored original fuel tank from my parts car with a new sender. Original interior is in pretty solid usable condition however it's originally a standard interior car and at some point, someone swapped out an original deluxe set of front and rear seats. It runs and drives....misses a little bit when in park and revving, but when it goes into D or R, it really starts missing, and from the tailpipes, it sounds like the miss is coming from the drivers side. When driving, at low RPM, it will drive pretty well, but if you give moderate acceleration, the motor really shakes for a second before slowly starting to accelerate. Trying to get it ready for a trip to Colorado Springs for the ROA meet. One side question - I ordered a rear Riviera script for my trunklid and it didn't come with clips. I have the screw on type for the round post emblems that go on the fenders, but the rear emblem has flat posts. I didn't see any on OPGI although I couldn't really tell from the pictures. Does anyone have a source for these? Someone I'm related to seems to have misplaced the originals along with the original rear emblem. Here's an album of how we got the car and then the exterior after paint. <a href="http://imgur.com/a/Zvsa1" target="blank">1965 Gran Sport rescue</a> Options: Remote Mirror Tinted Front Glass Only Power Windows Door Edge guards (not currently on the car) Retractable Seatbelts
  16. Selling a 1964 Buick LeSabre that is currently in mid-restoration. My father passed away this year and unfortunately I need to sell it. Only 49,000 original miles. Original color is silver w/ red interior. Mechanically, it was always a great running car. Restoration-wise, bodywork is about halfway done. Most of the parts still with it. It's a pretty solid car. Great for a project! The person who was working on it is willing to talk to anyone to let you know everything he did. Asking $3000 or best offer. Msg me or call/text with any questions or if you want to check it out. 412-480-0307. The car is in the Pittsburgh, PA area. Serious inquiries only please. I have to schedule when I can get in to where the car is at. Thanks for looking!
  17. Hi guys, There's this barn find XKE restoration blog that I recently found online and thought some of you might be interested in:rolleyes: http://www.classicdigest.com/readers-stories/show-ad-detail/Andreas/5/14
  18. WANT TO BUY 1959 Cadillac El Dorado Biarritz With Bucket Seats in restorable condition. The car must be complete with tri-carbs, air cleaner assembly, fiber glass boot, original Eldo wheel covers. Any color combination is acceptable. TOP DOLLAR PAID. All inquiries please contact Frank Nicodemus by email: </SPAN>info@frank-nicodemus.com</SPAN> or call 845-235-0622 Thank you and a Happy Thanksgiving to all! Frank Nicodemus</SPAN>
  19. I bought this car back in 1989 in Coutts, Alberta, Canada. It is coming along but I have moved a number of times and life has got in the way of completing this project... I will get there... Just now getting a shop built will be my first project. The car has been back and forth across Canada twice and I still seem to have all the parts... I will start at the beginning and bring this story up to date over the next few months. In 1989 there was an auction of a "museum" in Coutts Alberta. It was a 5 day auction and there was lots of non car stuff there as well. There were about 80 or so vehicles in various states of completeness... Only 2 actually ran. I went down ahead and determined there were 5 cars I would be interested in (all touring cars). I ended up buying the second best one (in my mind) and also the cheapest one at $350.00. I think the 1922 Studebaker would have been a better car and it was the larger model of Studebaker. Mine was marked as a 1917 McLaughlin but as I found out later it was a 1919. It also turned out to be a HA63 special... besides the tag the references I have found say that the specials had the yellow painted wood spoke wheels... and this car had that.. I only lived an hour or so from the auction so after paying for my car I headed home rented a trailer and went back and picked it up... It was a bit of a zoo there as people were picking up vehicles but they did have a make shift tow truck there helping people get cars loaded. Mine happened to be behind a post so we had to lift it sideways before pulling it out. The pics attached were taken a few days later after i took all the stuff out that was piled in the back. I don`t have a pic of that but I suspect it was why most people took a pass on this car.... The back was full of what appeared to be junk and the fender and the door on the top of the pile definitely didn't belong to this car.... My good fortune was that everything else down the pile did belong to the car and I would say the car was at least 90% complete... but it sure was rough.... my kind of project.
  20. Restoring a car offers many choices. One of those is paint. To get modern hold out on paint alot of guys use PPG and Dupont which offers great quality paint lines but the prices tend to be a little high for a home DIYer like me. I am doing a frame off on a 1959 Buick hardtop by myself to save tens of thousands of bucks. I was thinking of using Duponts Chromobase line because that is what I can get locally but has anyone used TCP Globals paint line? I am going to use the epoxy primer, base, clear system but do not know how the paint holds up over time and the quality of the paint sold through TCP. Does anyone have experience with their paint? Thank You Josh
  21. I am a new to AACA. I bought my first antique car recently, a 1934 Chevy. I have a lot of questions about restoration and what is a good idea or bad idea? Should I put parts on that make it less original but easier to drive like Hydraulic brakes, maybe better steering. And where do I find parts? I want to take advantage of all the knowledge that already exists. So far, all I have done is search the Internet for information and not finding that so helpful. Anyone have any advice on getting started? Thanks in advance gmkc
  22. hey everyone i am planning on restoring some classic vehicles. Right now im looking at a 1939 dodge sedan and a 1957 chevy bel air. there are times where I think i was born in the wrong era haha. I'm not looking at making them rat rods just going all original as I can. I have never done anything like this before so any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated! I'm going to see them again today and take some pictures and tryu and post them up. thanks!
  23. What do you see as the greatest threat to the continuation to the vintage car hobby? Everyone has thought at one time or another about the future of collecting, restoring, and driving vintage cars and I would like to open a discussion about this. My opinion is the lack of interest among people my age (25) along with the cost to get into the hobby being the biggest problems. This is why. I have been into the vintage car hobby since I was 16. I am considered a eccentric by my friends for it to. I went to McPherson college for auto restoration only to find out I couldn't afford it, Yet I still spend all my money just trying to restore 1 car myself (1959 Buick 2 door). I have owned mostly GM 1954-1959 vintage and take great pride in driving my classics daily and showing my friends WHY post war cars kick a##. I see alot of my buddies interested but not willing to shell out the same amount of money for a car they can buy a house for. I still have about 25 to 30 grand to go before its finished plus all the time I have to put into it. The hobby has gotten so picky over the years that a good restoration 30 years ago would be mediocre at best now. Having owned 'restored' cars before to save money I found out people cut to many corners. That is why I am doing a nut and bolt restoration on my B59 (so I know it was done right). I noticed also that most car clubs I am a member of (BCA and 59 Division included) that I am the only or one of the only 'young' guys in it. So I have to 'prove' myself to be considered more then just a fan even though I have worked on, repaired, and partially restored cars from a 1954 Chevrolet with the Babbitt L6 to the 1959 Buicks. In that regard it seems that this hobby is centered around the older, wealthier generations thus making it uninviting to people my age to get involved. Is There a solution? This hobby has attracted many people from all walks of life but few young guys. It seems this hobby is in cruise control with nobody at the wheel to direct this hobby to address problems and threats to it. For example. When was the last time you saw an ad on TV promoting the restoration of vintage cars (not specific cars like mustangs but vintage in general) or trying to recruit new members? That alone can bring this hobby to the public mind and allow a influx of new membership not seen in decades.
  24. Hello all! I own a '40 Lincoln-Zephyr Continental Cabriolet and we're TRYING to figure out the best way to restore the interior hardware's gold (macoid) trim. I came across this post:http://forums.aaca.org/f128/gold-macoid-substitute-maybe-309784.html ...but was wondering if you all had any "other insights". Thanks!
  25. If you are restoring a 1928 to 1933 Cadillac or Lasalle do we have the parts for you. Go to peterksanders.com to look at our catalogue and contact us if you have any questions!
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