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Found 16 results

  1. ​I'm a Professional automotive refinisher by trade and I'm willing to offer advice and pointers to anyone who is going to refinish their own vehicle. Pictures are most helpful but I cannot give exact estimates without looking at the car in person. I can offer advice on materials to buy, tooling to use and the best kinds of paint, primer and sealer to use as well as proper repair and painting procedures for a quality DIY paint job you can be proud of. I'm also very knowledgeable on metal finishing and replacement, welding techniques, chrome repair on stainless (dent repair) and custom painting techniques (stripes, scallops, flames, airbrushing, wood grain, marbleizing, cob webbing, dry brushing, aging techniques, etc) I can also offer advice on chopping, channeling, frenching lights and antennas etc.
  2. (Hey, the new Forum! Looks good – thank you!) Well, I mentioned that I liked exterior paint color and interior color information. Allow me to bore you…. Buick records indicate that seven 1988 Reattas left Lansing with order code 14 Black Metallic paint (GM paint code WA8767).
  3. I have a 1948 Chrysler Windsor Sedan. I recently purchased a center brake light housing that had been re-chromed. It is better than mine, but I was wondering about the grooves in the center of the housing that run the length of the car. Are these supposed to be black? If so, what kind of paint would I use and how does one paint on chrome? The hood, trunk, and side emblems also have paint on chrome, though it is an orange-red. Does anyone know the proper paint color for this red?
  4. Does anybody have a recommendation on who has the best engine paint that can be purchased in the old Pontiac green?
  5. So my GS is a pretty low mile original, but it was not stored well for many years. It now runs like a top and my dad did a pretty darn good driveway paint job on it, but there is just light surface rust on many of the surfaces in the engine bay. I am in no position to handle a frame off restore on the car, besides, it runs and drives to well as it is.....most of what it needs is only cosmetic so I'm going to be handling all of this I can as a frame-on refreshing. I've removed the passenger front wheel and hub and am cleaning it and installing new inner and outer bearings. I pressure washed the inside of the wheel well to remove the old 50% gone, 100% cracked and peeling underlayment. I removed the Antenna access plate and replaced the original broken antenna with a spare I had. Removed all the passenger side engine bay accessories, pressure washed the sheet metal and low pressure washed around the motor along with a pick, screwdriver and toothbrush. Then a gentle degrease and rinse, prime and paint. I'll reassemble the wheel and well, then clean and replace the accessories. It came with an old set of aluminum AllState air horns that I may attempt to restore and replace although the original horns work fine. Here are some pictures: I'll post more pics as I progress. Trying to be done with the engine bay and both front wheels and wells by the end of the weekend. I know it's wishful thinking.
  6. My 47 Conti Cab has acrylic lacquer (maroon) paint that has dried out and separated in a few areas. I definitely need to repaint some areas, but I'm wondering what to expect for a full job. I'm not able to pull all the chrome, etc. myself. I have been successfully restoring some of the lesser affected areas with Maguire's 7 and TRD but you can still see cracks on close inspection. I'm in Bucks County, PA if anyone knows a good source for painting. -T
  7. Hi everyone - I thought I could pass along a helpful hint. If you are like me you do not like taking apart a car and the putting rusty parts back in it. About a year ago I bought a $70 gallon of chassis saver paint. Good product, but I found coverage terrible and cost per foot completely insane. Two weeks ago I ripped out the seats in my 52 Hornet to paint the floor. For the heck of it I went to my local farm store to see what they might have. They carried four colors of the rustoleum contractor grade - black, red, orange and brown. I bought a gallon of black for $29. This product is crazy good and the coverage is incredible. I ended up painting the seat frames too. The stuff absolutely will not scratch. I tried to do so with a screwdriver. I literally could not even make a scratch mark. After the project I tried to find out why I had not heard of it before. Nearly impossible to find data on it and it is not carried in any major retailer. The only thing I can figure is that it would completely end the 3.99 quart business they have. Anyway - thought you guys might appreciate a good tip - and, no, I don't work for rustolem or a farm store - haha!
  8. I have several gallons of Nason Ultron paint (its suppose be an equivalent to Imeron in chemical composition, and Imeron hardener is suppose to work on it). I am looking to see if any one has any hardener for it or if people would like to buy it. From talking to an old paint expert he says Imeron was top of the line stuff. From what i can gather its some of the best paint you can get. We have 2 gallons of green (a blue green not yellow green), 4 gallons of blue, a gallon of violet red, a gallon of organic orange and 2 gallons of lemon yellow. All the paints are base colors. Also does anyone know how much it would be worth? I have an idea of price but i would like to get peoples opinions. Thanks! if you want to buy some paint you can post below or contact me through Daviondude@yahoo.com
  9. Restoring my engine. Can anyone tell me what the engine paint color was in year 1926. I believe they did paint the engines back then didn't they? For some reason I am thinking it was gray rather than the common green in the 60's etc. If anyone knows and where to purchase the paint I would surely appreciate it. Thanks/Lee
  10. Jay Leno's Garage featured a cool demo for a new process to replicate chrome more accurately than ever before. I just posted this article with more details and a link to the video, I can imagine this being quite useful to many of us on this forum. If anyone has actually used this process before I'd be very curious how it came out, did you do it yourself, durability, etc.? Moto Arigato: Finally! A Cheaper and Easier Way to Replicate Chrome
  11. Our 53 buick roadmaster 2 door hardtop was originally painted with an imperial blue roof and glacier blue body - code 87. We can find Ditzler PPG code of 10674 for the Imperial Blue and an Acme Rogers code of 7499 for the glacier blue on the internet but our local auto paint store here in Ontario Canada says they need Dupont codes to blend paint colours. Is anyone able to help us? Thanks. Don and Pat Palmer
  12. Does anyone have a list of the all the available two-tone combinations for Oldsmobile in 1957? The paint charts do not include this information so I'm thinking it would have to be on a period dealer brochure or pamphlet. Thanks, Greg
  13. Hi all, I'm cleaning fifty years of gunk off of the generator of my '52 72R. Usually when I clean these components up there is a trace somewhere, a clue, a little scrap of paint or three that indicates the part's original color. So far I've found no clues as to what color the generator housing might have been painted, if any. Was it bare steel, or was some paint applied to them? Anybody know? :confused:
  14. The engine caste on my 1926 AA is a pale grey. Can anyone tell me the proper color and where I can obtain the appropriate paint? Thanks.
  15. I see no evidence from period photographs or any of the 1954 color charts that Buick offered their Century convertible with a two-tone paint scheme (divided by the sweep spear). They all appear to be monotone. Can any Buick experts confirm this? Thanks.
  16. Guest

    Wheel Paint

    I'm preparing the wheels for my 1916 Dodge Touring for new wood. After cleaning the crud off the hubs I discovered a decent coat of paint. So decent in fact that a wire wheel didn't do a complete job and I ended up using Stripease, which worked. (Don't let it dry, guess how I know) Anyway, I am so impressed with the paint job I'd like to duplicate it. What is the process to prepare the surface, prime or not prime and the type, and what type of top coat should I use to get the most durable finish? Thanks for any advise.
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