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Found 7 results

  1. Hello! I am fairly new to the whole 6V ignition system, but assuming that it works on the same theory as a 12V ignition system. Here's the situation: I have a 1949 Chrysler Windsor with the original 251 Flathead 6. The motor was seized, so I disassembled it, rebuilt it, got it to turn over freely, etc. Well, I cannot seem to get any spark to get it to fire up. I have replaced the coil, points, condenser, etc, all to no avail. Any ideas where I may be going wrong? Thanks in advance!
  2. Hey, I am getting a Buick I found back on the road after many years. I believe I need an ignition switch, though it could be the key cylinder for the switch or, something else? Here is what is happening: The starter wants to kick back in after the key is released. So, it starts the car fine but then tries to kick the starter gear back in randomly. It does not do this consistently. Sometimes it will start right up and the starter never disengages. Other times it starts and runs as normal, then kicks the starter again after 20 seconds or so. Also, I discovered that turning the key to "Accessory" also engages the starter! I found a YouTube Video that walked me through the "top secret" ignition switch removal (turn to Acc. push a paperclip through the hole to get the lock release, twist counter-clockwise). I cleaned the key cylinder and switch with ether, lubed and re-assembled. No change at all. So, am I missing anything? Should I be buying a switch, cylinder, complete assembly, or do I have a crossed wire or something? Thanks in advance! Russ
  3. Ok, another question for you guys. I’m still trying to get my ’30 Commander FD started (or at least cough over or sputter or something!). I’ve replaced the plugs and plug wires and put a new coil in, and I have spark at the plugs when I crank it over with the starter, but I get nothing, even with starter fluid. Not even a kick or any other signs of life. I did remove the distributor to clean it, and at first I thought I had reinstalled it backwards, i.e. the plug was firing at the bottom of the stroke rather than the top. But it looks like the distributor shaft can only engage the crank in one position so I’m assuming that’s not the problem. I haven’t done anything with the carb yet, but I figure that even if the carb needs to be rebuilt, the engine should at least kick with the starter fluid in the cylinders and the plugs firing. Any suggestions??</SPAN> Thanks in advance.</SPAN> Dunc126
  4. Good afternoon, This is my first question so please bear with me. I acquired a 1930 Commander FD 8 cyl. and I am in the process of trying to get it started. I've removed the cylinder head, polished the combustion chambers, disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled the distributer, replaced the plug and coil wires, and replaced the coil and coil-to-ignition wires. Here’s my problem, I have current at the coil, but when I crank the engine, no spark at the plugs. I’m assuming it’s a problem in the distributer. Does anyone have any suggestions on what might be wrong? Are there any common fault points I should check first?</SPAN> Thanks in advance!</SPAN>
  5. Guest

    1926 Oakland Spark Plugs

    Hi everyone, we have a 1926 Oakland and are looking to find out what the original spark plugs would have been for it. Does anyone know where we could purchase plugs the same as the originals or what the code for them would be? We have a couple of service books for it but they only say clean and/or adjust gap. It currently has Champion W16Y plugs wich somebody put in before we recieved it. Thank you all in advance, any help would be greatly appreciated. - John
  6. Guest

    Battery drain

    I have a 1988 Reatta. New battery, new plugs, new sensors, lots of work on the car. For months, the car has been draining the battery. I replaced it again and thought all was well. Then I noticed that the courtesy light is going on and off all night long. Sometimes, when I close the door, the light just stays on. I restart the car, turn on the lights and turn it off. Then the light stays off. Sometimes it is off when I close the door, but then rolls through turning on and off all night long. Battery will be dead or nearly dead in the morning:mad:. What is going on?:confused:
  7. I found the links below for complete Parts Manuals for Chrysler years as indicated. The scans are very good quality and good pdf files although all the chapters are separate rather than compiled as one pdf with many chapters. There is also a link for 1950-65 Chrysler Carb/Ignition Parts Book and the 1964 Chrysler Options & Prices. Just thought I would share the wealth of information I found here with everyone here. Pass it on! jholst.net Chrysler 300K Home Page jholst.net Chrysler 300K Home Page jholst.net Chrysler 300K Home Page jholst.net Chrysler 300K Home Page jholst.net Chrysler 300K Home Page jholst.net Chrysler 300K Home Page jholst.net Chrysler 300K Home Page jholst.net Chrysler 300K Home Page jholst.net Chrysler 300K Home Page http://www.jholst.net/tech-manual/option-price.pdf Have a Great Day! Sharon Docs Gal
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