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Found 2 results

  1. Hello Everyone I have also posted in the HCCA forums about this questions. Maybe there are others here who could give me some further insights. [TABLE=class: forumline, width: 100%] <tbody>[TR] [TD=class: row1, width: 100%, bgcolor: #EFEFEF][TABLE=width: 100%] <tbody>[TR] [TD=colspan: 2]My grandfather has 3 1914 Overlands and as far we know now none of them have the proper cutout mechanism. The Willys Overland Knight Registry (WOKR) although has essentially all the drawings, except for things they bought for the car and the cutout (so it may have been something they bought). Since we have no drawings we have no exact way of knowing how it was done at the moment with my Grandfather's collection anyway We do have a 4th non-running original 14' car that was an earlier production then the other 3 cars. It has wood hood latch mounts instead of metal ones is how we know, they changed that later in production, not sure how many we made like that though out of the 49k produced. Anyway luckily parts of the cutout actuation mechanism seem to still exist under the car. The cutout switch is mounted on the right side of the front floor boards by the drivers left foot. The mechanical part below the floor has a piece of wire/rope tied together hanging from the switch. Across the car under the left flat floorboard is a sort of double pulley with a pivot in it (I think its been a while since I've looked at it) and although I have not seen it myself on our car. Ed Orr of Florida mentioned that on his car there is an unused single pulley positioned on the underside of the front left angled floorboard. This pulley is positioned directly above the valve on the exhaust muffler. I have not been up to my grandfather's to confirm his car has this or if there is a hole for it, but if it is there perhaps that question can finally be answered. That would mean the switch would be depressed with a rope being pulled taught and then running through one of the 2 rollers on the double pulley using the pivot to switch the direction of the rope. Then the rope runs up to the single pulley and then down to the switch. I do have a bit of concern over the bending moment on the double pulley in this arrangement from pulling the rope taught. I was curious if this was even possible way to activate it using ropes and pulleys. I've seen systems with metal rods and levers, but are the cars or someone with an 14' Overland that still uses this "Pulley" system. All the rollers are made of wood and as I mentioned it used rope so it would explain partly why its been so hard to figure out as its possible many had simply fallen off the cars and rotted away by the time people got to restoring them. I'm sure back in the day they may have just shrugged and said oh well or made there own ways to make it work.[/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]
  2. I've got a 6v Delco 948s generator off a 1938 Buick. Question is, the cutout box has 5 terminals not 4. BATT GEN F GRD. The extra one is marked IGN obviously ignition. What is this for??? When I apply 6v to it and GRD it pulls the contact in. I want to convert to electronic regulation by using BATT GEN F and GRD. This will make the IGN terminal redundant. Is this OK? Is the IGN term part of the old regulator set up and therefore not required if I go electronic??? Pete
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