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Found 8 results

  1. We have a 1916 Body. It has a lot of bullet holes in it but they seen fairly easy to fix. Just hammering them in does a great deal. we also have a second body that we a few parts off of for a 1918 but you can have the rest with the body to fix any remaining parts (except the very back which is the part we need). PM, comment, or email me at Daviondude@yahoo.com if you are interested. here are some pictures: (ignore the cowl in the back)
  2. RE: 1940 L-Z Continental Q1: Is there a VIN? If so, ...where is it located? Q2: Is the Body Number the VIN? Q3: How do you read/decode an L-Z Body Number? IE my car's body # is 06H.56.194 (it's a '40 cabriolet, 350 were produced)
  3. I am looking to find an experienced autobody shop to work on my 68 chevy pu truck cab in Melbourne Florida or nearby I have had a mobile welder do some sheet metal replacement such as, pilar ends, piece of floor, floor supports and kick panels on bottom. I currently have the cab completely taken apart and looking for an experienced professional with the patience to weld in areas around the windshield, install and fit windshield wiper mount and some other sheet metal and touch up and dent work. small stress cracks in good doors I am looking for recommendations or information and connections an
  4. I am now deep into a winter project, building a vintage speedster on a '32-50 chassis, to be done by June for running the Great Race (this year - a lap of the Great Lakes). Being part engineer, part artist, and wholly looney; I have decided to make it a coachbuilt special: boat-tail with twin head fairings and pontoon fairings. Why not? I offer this blog (with pix) on the project, for those interested: The Great Race John Corey And I welcome all good advice and relevant spare parts contributions! Thanks to those who have already lent their support (you know who you are)! jc
  5. Has anyone heard of the 1974 dale? Fiberglass body, suppost to get 80 MPG. pretty interesting story. Long story short, there are 3 known prototypes, two owned by collectors and one in a museum. If there were another unknown dale fiberglass body does anyone have any clue about what it could be worth?
  6. I am in the process of restoring my 1932 Pontiac Deluxe Sport Coupe and have stripped the car down to the structural wood on the body. I am looking for some help on how to take care of this part of the restoration. In general the wood is very good. I need to do some replacement or repair of the wood around the top of the body where the top material is nailed. I also have some wood on the main sill that needs to be replaced. Here are my questions: 1) I was told that West System Epoxy 105 is a very good way to seal the wood. Anybody have any experience with this? Any other products used t
  7. For Sale: Stanley Steam Car Sedan Body, 1923 - 1924. Five-passenger sedan body for either a 1923 Model 740 or 1924 Model 750 Stanley Steam Car. Very complete, includes body, fenders, splash aprons, hood, condenser and shell with Stanley name plate, and hood shelves. Minor surface rust on very solid sheet metal. Restoration started decades ago and abandoned. Some good wood. Missing rear seat springs. This body belongs on a Model 740 or Model 750 chassis. There are very few sedans surviving and apparently no
  8. For Sale: 1923 - 1924 Stanley Sedan Body. Should fit 740 or 750 chassis. Five-passenger sedan body for either a 1923 Model 740 or 1924 Model 750 Stanley Steam Car. Very complete, includes body, fenders, splash aprons, hood, condenser and shell with Stanley name plate, and hood shelves. Minor surface rust on very solid sheet metal. Restoration started decades ago and abandoned. Some good wood. Missing rear seat springs. This body belongs on a Model 740 or Model 750 chassis. There are very few sedans surviv
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