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Found 7 results

  1. I have a 1991 Chryser TC and my issue is there is no ground on the coil side of the relay and i'm wondering where the ground is supplied, can't imagine it's a constant ground seeing there are 2 wires spliced under the relay and it would probably burn the motor up... Does anybody know where the ground for the relay is supplied or have a wiring Diagram they could help me with? I'm having issues finding anything more than a plain connector view. Thanks much!
  2. My friend and I replaced the Teves ABS brake system on my '89 with a traditional master cylinder / vacuum booster yesterday, and I couldn't be more pleased. Like most everyone, I battled with the Teves on and off again over the years (more on, than off). But no more. I'm happy to report that we did the whole job in one day, and the results are super tight brakes. I got the vacuum booster, master cylinder, two proportioner valves, some line, couplings and a T-joint for about $200, which is about $450 less than a remanufactured Teves system from Prior. The system I took off was pretty much shot: leaking pump, leaking accumulator, and rusted almost beyond recognition. I'd been putting off replacing it for almost two years, topping it off with brake fluid weekly, and feeling guilty about the environment. It finally completely went out on me about a year ago, leaving the car un-drivable. I did my research and bought all the big parts prior to yesterday, which is why we got it done in a day. All my research suggested it was a straight-forward job, which it was. We only had two unexpected hiccups; both were minor. Anti-lock brakes are a nice safety net, but down here in Texas, in the 10 years I've driven this car, I've only had the ABS engage once. I'm a competent braker, when it comes to tight situations, so ABS isn't something that's very important to me. Others feel differently, I'm sure, so this mod isn't for everyone. Of course, I've only driven it for one day and I haven't tried to lock up the wheels yet, so it's a bit premature to do a victory march. However, the braking response is just as good as with the Teves, so unless our adapter fittings spring a leak, I don't expect any problems. I'm sure a few others have done this before, but I could find very little documentation on it, so I thought I'd post here in case anyone else is interested in the idea. If you are, feel free to email me at billyd.atx @ gmail . com. I'll try to post some pics of the finished mod when I get a chance.
  3. I need an ABS Control Unit for my 89 Buick Reatta. Anyone with knowledge where I can get such a part, please let me know. Prefer used, but if I must buy new or re-manufactured (if there is such a thing). That's o.k. I was told that a new one is $300, which I did not know if that was a good price or not. Can anyone help?
  4. i have read with great interest the posts about brake accumulator issues, and brake conversion projects. i was wondering if there is a reason to NOT convert to a newer ABS brake system? i have found newer style ABS solutions for lebaron and daytona, thru 1993 or 1995, seem to be easily acquired, and maintained. is there an issue with finding room for the power booster from a lebaron or daytona system? regarding concerns about lawsuits: not worried - i have a pit-bull friend on call... besides, i could just say "oooh i'm old, i didn't know what i was doing"
  5. I have a 92 Buick Roadmaster, and the ABS light stays on, and discharges the battery. I have tried all the fuses, and the light stays on. Any Ideas?
  6. I have been digging around for answers to this question. I have an 89 Reatta with the Teves brakes. Wish I would have bought the 91 now. Why is my brake light on, abs light not on, and never comes on, and my brakes are so hard to push that I nearly brake the seat when trying to stop? I have checked for voltage at that abs pump, and I have 11.34 volts, but the pump never runs. I get the low pressure message from the computer, so I am sure it is not the abs controller in the trunk. I am thinking it is simply the pump, but why doesn't the ABS light come on when I start the car? Could it be a coincidental issue, and the ABS light is burned out. I doubt it. Thanks, Jason
  7. I noticed both my brake lights are on (red ! and the yellow ABS). I tried the obvious and checked both fuses and both relays, all good. I noticed the rear pads look like new and the front is close to gone. The emergency brake does not work either. Scary! So I assume that the front have been doing all the braking. If I pump them 2-3 times the red light goes away but returns in 2-3 seconds and stay lit. I drove it at about 30mph and slammed on the brakes. They work but skid marks and no ABS. I tried to read the codes but shows an "electrical error"..1990 model - terminals A&H Doing the basics I can handle but getting into a breaking system can be over my head. Is there anything elaborate with this braking system or can anyone service the brakes?
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