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Other Clubs

  1. I'm not a Newbie to Oldsmobiles, but this is my first Classic or Vintage Olds and since I've always been a Chevy man with the exception of my 58 Buick and my GMCs, I'm ignorant regarding early small blocks, however I'm reading great stuff about the 330 engine which is what's in my 65 Cutlass Convertible. The restoration done in the early 80s was well documented and the car was in storage for almost 2 decades but unfortunately the heir to the collector's estate is clueless, and I've found nothing indicating that anything was done except cosmetic work. I've not uncovered the codes on the right head yet because of the power steering pump brackets as I am driving the car for inspections, tire installation etc, but the casting on the front of the block shows to be a 66-67 394417 39° cam bank angle according to what I've read, so I'm asking for assistance. The number that's easily visible on mine is 394417 3 and my question for you experts is... COULD THIS BE THE CORRECT NUMBERS MATCHING ENGINE FOR A LATE PRODUCTION LANSING MICH 65 CUTLASS CONVERTIBLE, or has the engine been changed out? Everything indicates this is an original 66,000 mile car including the title and assurances of the seller and their agent, and I first became alarmed and concerned when my Carb guy said that this has a 67 W-30 Quadrajet which he's rebuilding and setting up for my small block since it ran really rich, leaked all over the place and loaded up on occasion. Tank and fuel lines were flushed and we're double filtering pre pump and in carb. Engine ID numbers on heads makes no sense to me because you can change out the heads easily, so how do I figure this out guys? If this isn't the correct engine for my car I want to acquire one eventually so I'll be on the hunt, and I want the best heads which are the 330 with a #4 stamp correct??? I've acquired some already so I hope so! LOL I'll have them ported polished with the larger stainless valves and hardened ex seats and keep driving with no down time, and those are the heads I have on the engine now too. Or, what about the Edelbrock aluminum with their intake?? Any feedback or advice since that's bolt on out of the box and can be as good of a deal depending on how much you spend upgrading yours? This is a driver, investment, local car show fun toy, but I want some things as close to original or kept easily restore-able for purist and value reasons. http://multiply.com/mu/justjordy2/image/1/photos/50/800x800/20/17-10-10-1642.jpg?et=NJ2zBff%2CZqSnUGr8tF7F6A&nmid=376555438
  2. i have a door that won't open. all the linkage seems to be in place, but the door won't go beyond the initial release. can anyone help me open my door? thanks
  3. Have a rare factory 4spd 1965 buick wildcat. Car needs a complete restoration. Have all 4sd componets. Orginal 401 engine is stuck and out of car. Car is located in Northwest Washington. Needs to be trailered. Car is 99 percent complete. The car is one of about 800 4 speed cars built about or about 1 percent or less of all wildcats that year. Transmission gone through. Own one of the rare ones. john, email address jes79@juno.com
  4. I have a '65 Electra with 22,00 original miles. The A/C compressor is spewing fluid. I would like to keep it original but the local A/C guy believes the A/C valves are also shot and says to upgrade to a more efficient system ( for $900). The only things not original on the car are fuel pump ( I have the old one), tires and battery. Otherwise, the car is probably a 2. I will probably have to sell the car next year and need advice about what to do about the A/c. Thanks for you help.
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