50silverstreak

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About 50silverstreak

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  1. Not sure what you mean by "index" the drive shaft. Could you elaborate? Also, what exactly does the pilot bushing do?
  2. Kaycee, Sorry for the delayed response to your question. I have been dealing with other issues...brakes, exhaust and intake manifolds, oh boy! Yes the pressure plate assy is rebuilt too. new throw out bearing. yes the car vibrate while standing still while in nuetral, with the clutch out. After the shop put it back together (and could not find anything out of place), the violent shaking was gone. What is left is just a slight vibration I feel at low speed up to about 35 mph. After that is gets less and less noticeable. The vibration is still there at rest with the clutch in or out, although far less than it was initially. It was suggested to me by some of the "old guys" at the cruise ins that the rebuilt clutch media may not be soft enough and therefore not slipping properly on the flywheel causing it to "chatter slightly." I was told to drive it for a while and it might go away after 500-1000 miles. It does not seem to have resolved or diminished but it is tolerable. It is not too noticeable with just a slight vibration notiecable at lower speeds. The issue I have is that it was not like this prior to the new clutch. Sometimes I think that I should just leave it and enjoy it with the slight imperfections. Any thoughts with the new information? Should I have the shop put a softer compund in that would allow that clutch to slip appropriately and to not chatter? (The shop will honor its work for a year) Do you think that the chatter would get progressively worse over time? Do you think this slight vibration will cause other issues long term with the flywheel, trans, bearings, etc? Or just enjoy it and make the changes the next time it needs a new clutch? Thanks, Christopher
  3. I have my '50 chieftain 6 in the shop to have the transmission serviced and clutch rebuilt. The car drives very smooth with the exception of a worn out clutch. This is a Drivetrain shop that was rec and does work on older cars as well as bigger trucks. The transmission was in good shape except for some seals that were replaced. Bearings, gears, etc were all fine and the fluid looked good. They sent the stock clutch out to be rebuilt because they are so hard to find/purchase without sending in a core first. The fly wheel was turned, the pressure plate was balance, the new clutch installed,etc. (The rear axle seals were also replaced) When I test drove the car there was an immediate and significant vibration when I pressed the accelerator while driving and while the clutch was pushed in while in neutral. The steering wheel and whole car seemed to shake which it had never done prior. They have taken the tranny back apart to check that the pressure plate plate was balanced, the flywheel was flat, etc. None of the obvious things were out of order. Does anyone have any suggestions on what could be the problem? They were not able to balance the flywheel b/c the machine does not have a machine that would fit it. However, I was told that if it was not unbalanced before, turning it would not make it unbalanced? Was there possibly a counter weight used on these cars that could have been knocked off? thanks, Christopher
  4. Can anyone tell me what other years exhaust manifold might fit my 1950 6 cylinder? I found a junk yard that has a 1948 and they tell me it should fit because they were all the same engines during that period. I would appreciate your shared knowledge. I have found it difficult at times to get information and direction on parts for the Pontiac. Sometimes I wonder if I should have purchased a Chevy instead.
  5. does anyone have an exhaust manifold for a 1950 pontiac chieftain flathead 6-cylinder? Or, do you have any leads to locate one for sale. I have checked CPR and a couple other leads from CPR without any luck. It seems that I could find one for an 8 only. Thanks for the help!
  6. I have a 2-door coupe sedan that I need some bars for the grill and some stainless trim. Does anyone have chrome or and/or other stainless steel trim pieces available? Door and fender trim stainless steel...or Most urgent would be the R and L bottom grille bars. Thanks Christopher Jacksonville, FL
  7. I have a 2-dooe coupe sedan that I need some bars for the grill and some stainless trim. Does anyone have chrome or stainless steel available? Most urgent would be the R and L bottom grille bars. Thanks Christopher Jacksonville, FL
  8. I solved the problem by intalling a 6-volt alernator!! Life is much better.
  9. HELP! I have 50 pontiac Chieftain-6 and I am having problems with my voltage regulators going bad, inconsistantly charging or not working at all. Is there any advice to common problems or tips for trouble shooting such as improper ground, generator symptoms or ways to test what is causing the problem. I am currently on my 3rd voltage regulator and it works for a while then seems to loose its polarity. sometimes I can reset the polarity with a jump wire from the BAT to ARM. Sometimes this does nothing at all then when driving it may start charging again inconsistantly. I have ran a ground wire to the body. Any answers???
  10. I have a 1950 Chieftain 2 door sedan delux, straight six and I have been averaging around 10-11 mpg as best I can tell. I have been pushing it more >60 mph to see what she can do. Seems like I should be getting better gas mileage, especially for a six. I typically use 89-93 octane and I a 20w 50 oil and I occasionally add the "mystery oil" additive to a tank. Others seem to be getting better mileage with larger engines. It starts to get very expenses even just cruising around. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks, Christopher
  11. Yes it is! I was told that the car was originally red. Infact I have found some untouched and unpainted areas that show the red. Also, the wheel are red. The numbers were worn but I was pretty sure it said 10. Repaint?? What was the code for Red? Could I have mistaken this for 10? well its silver now. Have you had a chance to see the pics I finally posted? Thanks for all of your great info Lukey! Christopher Jacksonville, FL
  12. If you had not noticed, I am full of questions and eager to pick your brains for knowledge! After having the gas tank removed to fix a leak, the gas gauge will, at times, have a very violent flicker, or siezure, of the needle when driving or sitting still. This happens more often when there is less than half a tank of gas and it is not the standard "float" that we are all used to. It does not seem to happen when the tank is mostly full. The gauge was working fine prior to having the gas tank removed. Can anyone offer some suggestions on what is going on and how I could fix this.