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John McEwan

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Everything posted by John McEwan

  1. It looks like it has been copper coated. I’m pretty sure that’s what I see through the chrome. The sides and front are perfect, it’s only the top. It looks tarnished.
  2. My ‘23 has wing nuts to adjust the brakes. I reckon yours is ‘24 +
  3. Can a ‘23 radiator shroud that I had chromed about 30 years ago be rechromed over the top? It is still in really good condition except for the top either side of the cap. It looks like the chrome was thin there and has been polished through. I can post an image tomorrow.
  4. Looking for a thirteen tooth countershaft for a DB gearbox ‘23 model. Needle roller style and must have good teeth both ends.
  5. My originals were flat. The 23 is still the original early body style.
  6. I wonder if the engine pans would fit a ‘23 and if they were flipped over would they suit a RHD?
  7. I have a couple of countershafts at the local CNC place have the flip over mod done. With a bit of luck all will be well. I will post some images when I get it back next week.
  8. I’m not really concerned with noise in reverse. Are you serious about your friend doing this mod?
  9. I had a brainwave. Could the low and reverse countershaft be flipped over to engage the seldom used and perfect condition reverse pinion in place of the worn out and pitted low speed pinion? You can see in the image it is not a problem on the r/h end. The extra shaft can be parted off and the area next to the now low pinion turned down to be able to press the 2nd gear close to the low speed pinion as per the complete countershaft at the top. The problem is when the large countershaft drive gear gets pressed on to the l/h end there will be 15mm less shaft for the drive gear after a spacer is made to place the drive gear the correct distance from the reverse pinion. I have other worn out countershaft that could have 15mm parted off one end to make up a spacer to take up the shortfall and be an area for the needle roller to run. There would still be 2/3rds of the of the original shaft being used to hold the drive gear on. I need opinions on whether the countershaft drive gear would still be viable with 15mm less shaft to grab. I could taper the short end and the spacer and TIG weld the spacer on using a plug to align them perfectly and the woodruff key can be still used. I’m getting a headache.
  10. Thanks for that info. Did the other sliding gears get made slightly tighter as well because I am having trouble with those ones.
  11. I am looking to buy a 13T low and reverse countershaft pinion in very good condition. Must suit needle rollers. This is for my 1923 Dodge. I have purchased a high speed 1st and 2nd high speed set and don’t want to run my current worn and pitted pinion on the new gears.
  12. Does anyone in Australia have a decent 13t layshaft gear set for sale? Mine has fairly deep pitting and wear on the low gear end.
  13. I received my high speed 1st and 2nd gearbox kit and want to replace the front and rear bearings. Anyone know the bearing size and preferred brand?
  14. Has anyone made a carrier to use a modern seal for the clutch shaft?
  15. I am in contact with Cled . I am getting the set off him but was also after the two pressed on gears on the idler gear set.
  16. Hi Mike Would you have the contact details of the bloke making the square drive shafts for the clutch and is there anyone making the the two new gears for the end of the idler gear set?
  17. Does anyone have experience with aftermarket higher speed 1st and 2nd transmission gears in an early 20’s Dodge? Can these gears be changed without removing the transmission from the car? Anyone know where to get and cost of these sets?
  18. I replaced all the woodwork with steel when I did the restoration on my ‘23. The wood was doing my head in. Am I a bad person?
  19. I have had the DB out on several trips since fitting the new rubber engine mounts and all I can say the improvement is amazing. Even my wife noticed a big improvement in smoothness and is willing to come on more drives. That’s saying something.
  20. The front mount is still standard. I figured with the front being a pivot the slight side to side rocking with the rear rubber mount will be taken up ok. Seems that is the case.
  21. The I took the DB on a short test drive this afternoon and I have to say within 10 seconds of driving off I could feel a vast improvement. Where it used to vibrate a lot in second in the higher revs there is nothing to speak of now. In 3rd gear cruising along it is the same story. When decelerating from speed before there was a big vibration now it is smooth as silk. The engine even seems to have more acceleration now. Next job is to make a new foot brake mount as the old mounting point had to make way for the new rubber engine mount. Testing with just the hand brake is scary but I couldn’t wait any longer. I also fitted a flexible exhaust joiner under the front floor board so the header could move and not affect the rest of the solid mounted system.
  22. I am re fitting the clutch and transmission in my ‘23 this coming weekend. I have read a previous post stating the rear engine support ring should be installed in this order: engine, bell housing, support ring on last otherwise the clutch pack can slide back and forward and make a noise. I previously (30 years ago) fitted the support ring between the engine and bell housing. Looking at an original support ring it looks, by the marks on it, in the middle is correct. Does anyone have the proper position info?
  23. I have modded a spare engine mount bracket on my ‘23 for rubber engine mounts. The chassis and rear mounting system is way different than the later model. I will be fitting it over the weekend and I think it will make a big difference.
  24. Off to a swap meet for an over night camp out. Looks like the trailer will be getting built soon.
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