John McEwan

I ended up with JP and new sleeves.

Just about to start reassembling my ‘23 Dodge engine after new sleeves, bores, pistons etc. I noticed when installing the lifters in the block that there is nothing to stop sump oil weeping out over time around them. They are just dropped in the hole and clamped down. I see there is a groove from the factory machined into the lifters just under the surface where they fit in the block. There is plenty of material in this area so I am thinking of increasing the depth of the groove and fitting O rings to seal them from the sump oil. This won’t interfere with the clamping area of the lifters. There will still be oil on the shafts lubricating them but this should cut down on some leaks.

Where can I purchase those door rubbers. Do they compress a bit?

Feels like Days of our Lives has ended.😩

I just received a full gasket set and there are four cork pieces. I asked if the kit had felt seals and the seller supplied two felt seals. Do some kits have felt and other have cork seals? I’d prefer to run felts as I had no leaks with them since the last rebuild 30 years ago.

I understand. It was my lame attempt at humour.

Thinking outside the square, except it’s round. I’m confused.

Excellent. Thank you.

Has anyone an opinion on Egge pistons for an Dodge slow 4? A good choice or any problems?

Thanks for the reply. My cylinders have been roughed out to +80 thou (2mm) to remove the pin gouge. I can get JP pistons at .80 oversize. It has been running with 40 thou oversize pistons for 30 years. Going .80 is only half a mm per side over what I have been using. Who can supply sleeves in Aus just in case.

Does anyone know the thickness of the cylinder walls in an early Dodge 4?

I’ve always wanted to ride in a rumble seat. Let me know when you drive it to Newcastle.

What’s a muffler the same as that cost? I’m thinking the 2” all the way would be better for performance as well.

That looks pretty good.How do we do this?

I like this. Is this close to available colours?

Ok thanks. It will be a couple of weeks till I get back so that gives me plenty of time to worry.

I was going off this and a couple of other similar posts.

I have my ‘23 engine out getting rebored and want to paint it while it’s out. I’ve seen a couple of posts where a bloke said they were originally light grey and fade to green after a few years of heat cycling. Would I be better going for grey using modern paint which probably wouldn’t fade off or just go straight to the weird green colour.

Using springs? Mine has high density foam. Easy to make a bit thicker seat base for those vertically challenged and hasn’t sagged since done in ‘91.

I was shaking like a leaf when I first drove mine after 18 years of restoration

Like looking under a brand new car. Great job👌

Yes it was. I will be pulling off the sump shortly and popping the pistons for a look at the rings. The problem is it wasn’t the cylinder with no compression that has the gouging. I will look into resleeving or finding a donor block. It was last reconditioned in 1991 so about time again I suppose.

Lost compression on one cylinder in my ‘23 and found a couple of gouges in a cylinder wall where it looks like the pin circlip has come adrift and the pin has moved sideways. It was already bored to 40 thou oversize and I am not confident it will clean up at 80 thou which is the biggest oversize pistons I can get in Australia. Anyone have any experience with resleeving or know of any larger over sized pistons?

The fun part was getting him in and out of it.

This is my 91 year old Uncle Val who bought my Dodge on behalf of my Grandfather in 1950. The yard wanted £50 and he said he had three nice crisp £10 pound notes. The salesman said can’t do it so my Uncle left. He got chased down the road and the salesman ok, let’s do it. Not bad for £30 ($60)