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John McEwan

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Posts posted by John McEwan

  1. 13 hours ago, Minibago said:

    Your standard DB cam shaft can have the lobes reground to the new profile.

    Here in Australia we use a company in Melbourne Victoria that only does camshaft grinding. It costs us about A$130 plus postage.

    Do they hardweld the lobes before grinding or just regrind the standard lobes?

  2. On 9/5/2021 at 9:02 PM, Minibago said:

    Hi Dereck,

    Firstly the plug thread is definitely 5/16ths UNF I just put a bolt in to try it. 
    If you have no tap maybe cut a bolt down the centre for a half inch or so with a fine hacksaw and use this as a rudimentary thread cleaner.

     

    Next, I agree that the mechanics manual is not very comprehensive, in all my work removing engines on these I have always removed the rear axle and torque tube and cleared it away then removed the gearbox. Supporting the engine the banjo is removed followed by the engine.

     

    The mention of a cam shaft regrind to provide an overlap was from me I believe, the cam grind I had done was to “Ralph’s  recipe” it was a bit of a secret I think but I understand the later Chrysler grind was the guide, I am not an engineer so the profile I cannot explain nor can I tell you the dwell, sorry.

    Is there any performance gain from the reground cam?

     

  3. On 8/20/2021 at 7:36 PM, Minibago said:

    Just a further thought, the flywheel on the DodgeBrothers Four cylinder is very very heavy, a result of this is a tendency to break the crank shaft.

    Another of Ralph’s recommendations was to machine an inch off the outer ring on the flywheel, of course it goes without saying that crack testing the crankshaft is a very good idea.

    Can anyone give a report on the results from machining the 1” off the flywheel on the early Dodges?

  4. Just about to start reassembling my ‘23 Dodge engine after new sleeves, bores, pistons etc. I noticed when installing the lifters in the block that there is nothing to stop sump oil weeping out over time around them. They are just dropped in the hole and clamped down. I see there is a groove from the factory machined into the lifters just under the surface where they fit in the block. There is plenty of material in this area so I am thinking of increasing the depth of the groove and fitting O rings to seal them from the sump oil. This won’t interfere with the clamping area of the lifters. There19C73EA0-DFAD-4FAA-896E-6F098C7903BC.jpeg.8ea73b4e2e5cc43d84888e634dcff772.jpeg will still be oil on the shafts lubricating them but this should cut down on some leaks.

  5. I just received a full gasket set and there are four cork pieces. I asked if the kit had felt seals and the seller supplied two felt seals. Do some kits have felt and other have cork seals? I’d prefer to run felts as I had no leaks with them since the last rebuild 30 years ago.

    062F9754-79BF-4D12-B04A-1153E458A958.jpeg

  6. Thanks for the reply.

    My cylinders have been roughed out to +80 thou (2mm) to remove the pin gouge. I can get JP pistons at .80 oversize.

    It has been running with 40 thou oversize pistons for 30 years. Going .80 is only half a mm per side over what I have been using.

    Who can supply sleeves in Aus just in case.

  7. On 4/4/2021 at 9:03 AM, RichBad said:

    I’ve got a 6” diameter 25”long muffler on mine - it’s a straight through and is pretty quiet.  Length of the muffler makes a big difference.  I also went 2” all the way through on mine (rather than reducing after the muffler).

    What’s a muffler the same as that cost? I’m thinking the 2” all the way would be better for performance as well.

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