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John McEwan

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Posts posted by John McEwan

  1. My ‘23 had a what I thought was an engine vibration problem but it turns out it’s pretty normal. The engine being solidly mounted to the chassis only added to it. I ended up installing rubber engine mounts on the rear mounting ring and now no vibration  at all speeds. The improvement is marvellous and is so much more comfortable to drive and be in.994DE234-9888-4A54-8B9E-B732969D567D.thumb.jpeg.3333dcdd39c219727bda686c5a568e2b.jpeg736D78B1-02E1-42DF-8581-C050ACE53E93.thumb.jpeg.0ce11cc3bf9b708b9d3ac05cf7eeb7e4.jpeg307C6B8C-04A1-4D30-807D-7B638D396C99.thumb.jpeg.2fd363bb5393214193eb4a17787d9c9d.jpegf

    • Like 5
  2. Finally getting it back together after around 10 months. Resleeved back to new standard bores, new pistons, polished crank journals and clearances checked, valve seats recut and inlet valves reconditioned and stainless exhaust valves, reground cam for newer overlap, decked block and slightly shaved head, new head studs and recent gearbox upgrade to new 1st and 2nd higher ratio. The best recent upgrade has been the rubber engine mounts. It was running on three and a half cylinders and was as smooth as silk. Should be even better now.

    47597F96-4844-4E28-8AF4-3A28A286B19C.jpeg

    • Like 4
  3. I’ve finally got my ‘23 engine back together except for the head after resleeving etc.

    It’s ready for paint (2 pak thanks to Matt)

    My query is if I paint the head and head nuts after tensioning down, do two or three heat cycles then re tension,  how do I not mess up the beautiful new paint on the nuts  and area around the nuts? Maybe not paint those areas and touch up after?

     

    • Like 1
  4. Does anyone have a nylon camshaft gear off and early Dodge 4 they would sell me? 

    The usual suppliers are out of stock and I thought whilst I am having the cam re ground I might try and get one. Heard good things about them like quiet running etc. Any thought? I don’t want to run a fibre gear and currently have the steel one.

  5. 13 hours ago, Minibago said:

    Your standard DB cam shaft can have the lobes reground to the new profile.

    Here in Australia we use a company in Melbourne Victoria that only does camshaft grinding. It costs us about A$130 plus postage.

    Do they hardweld the lobes before grinding or just regrind the standard lobes?

  6. On 9/5/2021 at 9:02 PM, Minibago said:

    Hi Dereck,

    Firstly the plug thread is definitely 5/16ths UNF I just put a bolt in to try it. 
    If you have no tap maybe cut a bolt down the centre for a half inch or so with a fine hacksaw and use this as a rudimentary thread cleaner.

     

    Next, I agree that the mechanics manual is not very comprehensive, in all my work removing engines on these I have always removed the rear axle and torque tube and cleared it away then removed the gearbox. Supporting the engine the banjo is removed followed by the engine.

     

    The mention of a cam shaft regrind to provide an overlap was from me I believe, the cam grind I had done was to “Ralph’s  recipe” it was a bit of a secret I think but I understand the later Chrysler grind was the guide, I am not an engineer so the profile I cannot explain nor can I tell you the dwell, sorry.

    Is there any performance gain from the reground cam?

     

    • Like 1
  7. On 8/20/2021 at 7:36 PM, Minibago said:

    Just a further thought, the flywheel on the DodgeBrothers Four cylinder is very very heavy, a result of this is a tendency to break the crank shaft.

    Another of Ralph’s recommendations was to machine an inch off the outer ring on the flywheel, of course it goes without saying that crack testing the crankshaft is a very good idea.

    Can anyone give a report on the results from machining the 1” off the flywheel on the early Dodges?

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