crazytrain2

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Everything posted by crazytrain2

  1. Mike, Here's some pics of post swapped system, I DO NOT endorse this set up (compression fittings not recommended, also in this set up you lose one line you lose all brakes) but I thought it might be of some use. Note pic2 shows vacuum line connection.
  2. Page 3 of the link (below) has a very detailed GM steering column disassembly (with exception of airbag) hope it is of use. http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/088020.html
  3. Found this on the web, thought I would share http://www.a-body.net/forums/showthread.php?2944-Series-I-3800-LN3-performance-build
  4. Richard, I'll apologize in advance if I'm not picturing your issue accurately but have you considered hitting the loose fitting areas lightly with a heat gun? The heat will cause the vinyl to shrink. Be extra careful with heat gun though if you do try. Just a thought.
  5. Link below should provide what you requested. http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=377416&ukey_make=1022&ukey_model=14448&modelYear=1989&ukey_category=19398
  6. It absolutley did Ronnie! , Thank you very much!!!
  7. No not trying to do anything rediculous. I'm planning to replace the front struts, mounts and bearings, get an alignment and new tires sometime soon. I just thought I'd ask the question more or less as a matter of curiosity. That and the logic of why else would they offer them. But I take it from your response the answer is NO not required nor recommended.
  8. As depicted in pic below the lower strut to steering knuckle bolt hole (slot) is elongated to allow for camber adjustment. When replacing the front struts is it advisable to use an eccentric (cam design) bolt / washer kit for the lower mounting hole (slot)? If so which design of eccentric bolt works best as there seems to be 3 or 4 variations. Thanks!
  9. I know it's harder to tell when it's cold out but is the color of the smoke white or black? Correct me if I'm wrong guys but my understanding is that one of the tell tale signs of a blown head gasket is white smoke coming from exhaust. Just a thought.
  10. Not a Reatta but 89 Buick 3.8L VIN C story - With the temperature dropping I noticed heater wasn't working, radiator was low - cause was water pump weeping fluid. I swear these engines must be indestructable because it never overheated nor had did it. I'm not exactly sure when it had weeped out but it sure wasn't leaving fluid for some time. Not proud of the fact I hadn't caught it sooner just still amazed by the durability oh these engines. Even with 200K+ miles! Oh and yes replaced water pump and "Ol Betsy" is happy as a clam again
  11. I just finished replacing Magnavox coil pack and ICM, got them from Advanced Auto, pricing BWD Ignition Control Module CBE107P - $93 use code A124 BWD Coil E45P - $38.99 using ES123 Just an FYI
  12. Anybody else ever run into an issue with lifetime warranted, where the FLAPS store only maintains purchase records dating back 2 years. Anything beyond that you must provide a receipt, but the receipts they give are those heat activated, toilet paper type that fade to blank in that amount of time. I don't want to mention the store name because I'm not out to slam them, just hadn't run into this issue ever before.
  13. Unsure on the size disparity but to my knowledge those nuts are "stiked" (I think that's the correct term and spelling) meaning they have indents that purposely make them stubborn to turn.
  14. crazytrain2

    '89 Brakes

    Isn't there a strainer or filter of some sort in the bottom of the reservior where the outlet (feeding the pump) connects? If so (and following Mc_R's thought's) it could be plugged and cause fluid starvation.
  15. I've replaced front in strocks a few times on my 89 Buick Park Avenue 1st timeI went with :all in one preassembled strut, mount, flexible shaft guard and bottoming out absorber. 2nd Time I just replaced the struts and reused the mounts, shaft guards, rubber impact absorbption block. Bad choice not to replace the whole kit and kaboodle at once. Becase now struts are fine but mounts are groaning and in need of replacement. I understand you cant get the "preassembled strut/spring/mount " package. But I would certainley recommend replacing the entire strut set up system
  16. Copied from Barney Eaton "The part number is 25528399 ( I double checked different places in the parts book) Vintage Parts has it listed......... go to www.vpartsinc.com Click on GM/Delco parts and put in the number above. Their phone number is 877 846 8243"
  17. I thought I'd share some pics (1) of a Reatta 3.8 with stock vacuum brake system (note the 2 port master cylinder) and (2) a couple of pics showing modification of brake lines to vacuum system swap. I'm on the fence about swapping out the Teves system, it can be agravating as he__ at times and expensive but if repairable with some used parts then I'd say stick with it. Just thought I'd share some pics in case you go the replace route. I will note though: I'd recommend a 2 port MC and "Tee" the fronts off of one port, other port for rear. The modified system (the 4 port MC) in the pics has a couple of issues I need to point out. *The way the brake lines are routed if you blow a line whole system is lost YIKES! *Equally important is highly ill advised use (application) of brass compression fittings NOT RECOMMENDED!!
  18. I also used the JB weld method for replacing cam position sensor interupter magnet and so far so good. To make it easier to install the magnet (with the JB weld applied to it) I used a 1/4" socket extension (3" length) and inserted it through a small length of plastic straw. Then with the magnet on the end of the extension I installed it in place, grasped the straw and used it to maintain pressure against the magnet while I pulled the extension out. It worked pretty good for me and my sausage fingers ...lol. I've also included an illustration which I hope is clearer than my explanation and of some use to others.
  19. I recently went through a debacle changing front brake pads on my 89 Buick Electra Park Ave Ultra (which has the Teves Mark II brake system). I've managed to finish changing the pads but when I went to drive the car the passnger rear tire (brake) is now locked up. It then occured to me that in my haste and anger when I changed the front pads I opened the bleeder screws before compressing the caliper piston but forgot to pinch the hose to insure no back pressure at ABS brake system. The rear line routes to drivers side first then to passenger and the drivers side turns so I'm hoping I haven't managed to ruin the ABS valves. Plan to open the bleeder to see if releasing pressure fixes problem. Any other thoughts?. NOTE: Rear brakes on this are Drums Thanks again for letting me participate in the forumn, I try to limit my requests for help to issues which relate to Reatta's. So again Thanks! CT2
  20. Right now I'm probably the last person to give any advice on Teves brake problems (just take a look at my new thread as an example) but, you might want to check the resevoir to pump supply hose. Mine started to leak and would only leak when brake pump/motor was running, still doesn't sound right but it wouldn't leave a puddle when parked but it dripped when motor/pump would kick on.
  21. Thanks Barney, and unfortunately the fat lady hasn't sang just yet, (I still have the other side to do). And it just keeps getting better - The "3/8" Drive Oversized Hex Socket for Caliper Bolts" listed on A/A's website is not what it says it is (see part number 49015). The picture shows the socket but the part associated with the part number is actually a caliper bolt. Good Lord all I set out to do was change front brake pads, I mean c'mon already. Ithink I'm gonna get 1 size larger than what is called for from Harbor Freight and grind it down (angled) to insure a tight fit in the allen bolt. No way am I gonna chance stripping another one of these d___ things.
  22. LOL @ the video request I ended up having to drill the head off the bolt, then I could move the caliper in (towards the engine) enough to expose some of the bolt between the knuckle and the caliper. So then I drilled a hole through the bolt (perpendicular) and used the drill bit as a lever to turn the bolt. 5 minute job turned into 5 hour project, wondermous! And just to add insult to injury now I see Advance Auto carries an "Oversized 3/8" Allen Socket" for this very problem. Getting Happy Feet again rut-roe.
  23. These calipers only have the 2 bolts holding them in place, both of them requireallen wrench to remove. They go through the caliper and when tightened down the head of the bolt(s) is flush with the surface of the caliper. The holes in the calipers are counter sunk. They then thread directly into the steering knuckle.. I'll snap a picture tommorrow to show what a engineering marvel this truly is. Just broke a drill bit off inside there so I'm really doing the Snoopy dance of happiness now.:mad:
  24. I'm such a genius sometimes it's just plain scary. Went to change front brake pads for the umpteenth time only this time I managed to round off the interior of one of the allen head caliper bolts. The other bolt on this same side came off no problem. I pried against the old brake pad to push in the piston and managed to remove the old pads but I'm still stuck. The only thing I could come up with is to drill the head off the allen bolt bur now I'm not even sure this will work because: 1) Will I need to and if so can I get that sleeve off that goes around the bolt? 2) It appears I may have to drill out nearly the entire bolt before the caliper will come off. Anyone ever had this problem and or have suggestions to remedy? BTW - Grabbing it with an extractor or vise grips wasn't an option because it sets flush with caliper when installed. Also I'm hoping the calipers are the same in my car as the Reatta remember mine is an 89 Buick Electra Park Ave Ultra (but it is a Teves Mark I Brake System) Thanks guys MW
  25. Daniel, I assume you already have an axle which is either to long or to short. If so, could you cut it into 2 pcs. (remove some length if to long) and make a sleeve (ex. 1.75" OD x 1.25" ID)-which the 2 cut ends fit into and you could pin and weld? or would torque requirements be a problem. You could probably get that done for <$100 Just a thought