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About crazytrain2

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  1. Mike, Here's some pics of post swapped system, I DO NOT endorse this set up (compression fittings not recommended, also in this set up you lose one line you lose all brakes) but I thought it might be of some use. Note pic2 shows vacuum line connection.
  2. Page 3 of the link (below) has a very detailed GM steering column disassembly (with exception of airbag) hope it is of use.
  3. Found this on the web, thought I would share
  4. Richard, I'll apologize in advance if I'm not picturing your issue accurately but have you considered hitting the loose fitting areas lightly with a heat gun? The heat will cause the vinyl to shrink. Be extra careful with heat gun though if you do try. Just a thought.
  5. Link below should provide what you requested.
  6. It absolutley did Ronnie! , Thank you very much!!!
  7. No not trying to do anything rediculous. I'm planning to replace the front struts, mounts and bearings, get an alignment and new tires sometime soon. I just thought I'd ask the question more or less as a matter of curiosity. That and the logic of why else would they offer them. But I take it from your response the answer is NO not required nor recommended.
  8. As depicted in pic below the lower strut to steering knuckle bolt hole (slot) is elongated to allow for camber adjustment. When replacing the front struts is it advisable to use an eccentric (cam design) bolt / washer kit for the lower mounting hole (slot)? If so which design of eccentric bolt works best as there seems to be 3 or 4 variations. Thanks!
  9. I know it's harder to tell when it's cold out but is the color of the smoke white or black? Correct me if I'm wrong guys but my understanding is that one of the tell tale signs of a blown head gasket is white smoke coming from exhaust. Just a thought.
  10. Not a Reatta but 89 Buick 3.8L VIN C story - With the temperature dropping I noticed heater wasn't working, radiator was low - cause was water pump weeping fluid. I swear these engines must be indestructable because it never overheated nor had did it. I'm not exactly sure when it had weeped out but it sure wasn't leaving fluid for some time. Not proud of the fact I hadn't caught it sooner just still amazed by the durability oh these engines. Even with 200K+ miles! Oh and yes replaced water pump and "Ol Betsy" is happy as a clam again
  11. I just finished replacing Magnavox coil pack and ICM, got them from Advanced Auto, pricing BWD Ignition Control Module CBE107P - $93 use code A124 BWD Coil E45P - $38.99 using ES123 Just an FYI
  12. Anybody else ever run into an issue with lifetime warranted, where the FLAPS store only maintains purchase records dating back 2 years. Anything beyond that you must provide a receipt, but the receipts they give are those heat activated, toilet paper type that fade to blank in that amount of time. I don't want to mention the store name because I'm not out to slam them, just hadn't run into this issue ever before.
  13. Unsure on the size disparity but to my knowledge those nuts are "stiked" (I think that's the correct term and spelling) meaning they have indents that purposely make them stubborn to turn.
  14. crazytrain2

    '89 Brakes

    Isn't there a strainer or filter of some sort in the bottom of the reservior where the outlet (feeding the pump) connects? If so (and following Mc_R's thought's) it could be plugged and cause fluid starvation.
  15. I've replaced front in strocks a few times on my 89 Buick Park Avenue 1st timeI went with :all in one preassembled strut, mount, flexible shaft guard and bottoming out absorber. 2nd Time I just replaced the struts and reused the mounts, shaft guards, rubber impact absorbption block. Bad choice not to replace the whole kit and kaboodle at once. Becase now struts are fine but mounts are groaning and in need of replacement. I understand you cant get the "preassembled strut/spring/mount " package. But I would certainley recommend replacing the entire strut set up system