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Roger_Roy

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About Roger_Roy

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  1. there was a local guy who had patterns for '26 but he retired years ago and i dont know who bought his patterns, cost to have it done by a coachbuilder is considerable.... probably doesnt help you but if you contact US coachbuilders you may find someone who did one and kept the pattern.
  2. I think you got it '24 on the right
  3. some modified fords have this issue I think they fit a baffle in the torque tube. Sounds like it might be a good idea to check the angle of the drive shaft and see if you need to re adjust the angles while your at it.
  4. Might be more than one of those, maybe a city or state? or to narrow it down a particular series? a car you know he has and some description?
  5. you might have to rethink I hear oil companies have been changing the content of their oils to comply with pollution requirements (some of it gets burned even in a new engine) the thing to look for is 1,500 ppm Zinc (Zn) and 1340-1400 ppm Phosphorus (P) or close to it, what you were using years ago may not today be the same oil. You really have to read the small print, it seems almost no oils have the amount of ZDDP older engines need , not even the diesel oil I used to use. One of the valvoline ones do, this is from the Penrite site: Zinc Dialkyl DithioPhosphate, also referred to as ZDDP o
  6. Leif in Sweden whats the bonnet holderupper thing there in the pickie? Roger
  7. on the left hand chassis rail measure back approx 750mm from the front spring mount and scratch around there. If you know the previous owner see if you can get the missing plates ( if they arnt there on the car or in a box) A 4 with 4 wheel brakes is probably a 1924...
  8. probably a few ways but Ill add a "beware"... the engine may be simple but its not cheap to fix so maybe seek help locally to steer you in the right direction ...so anyway, it could be bent, solidy stuck or have a valve guide problem, none of those can be fixed with the head on. Its one of those experience things to tell whats what. What you can do is oil the stem (all of them while your at it) and tap the top of the valve stem with something like a brass drift and a hammer. Tap only! no wacking or heavy hitting. A free valve will open a little and "pop" shut, a stuck valve will stay down, a
  9. check for a stuck valve on that cylinder. The oil pan will be full of sludge if it hasnt been used/serviced. As is sounds like it hasnt been serviced tread carefully before starting, oil the cylinders, rockers, valves etc. Check and lubricate everywhere you can. finding another push rod shouldnt be hard. Update your profile so we know where you are? Roger
  10. Hi, looking for: windscreen posts any condition, will consider other years if they are close in looks stewart speedo swivel or parts (the bit that attaches with one screw under the speedo head) any condition dash switch assembly, need 2 knobs and 2 rod parts for the switches (the bits the knobs screw to) rusty bent bits will be considered Im not scared of fixing things. thanks Roger torana68 (at) hotmail.com (or just pm me here) Australia
  11. Nice! but it looks like someone has had a go at making a "parade" car out of it? blue overspray over original upholstery doesnt have me wanting it at that price. could be good though? whats the opinion of one like that for price? Roger
  12. Wood rot would be my suggestion, if the wood needs replacing, or major work its a big expense. dont think anyone can give a price estimate without seeing the car or an awefull lot of photos ... Roger
  13. thanks guys, anyone pulled the glass off? if it turns off I dont want to tap roger
  14. yeah dunno...... just go to a parts place and get one of the bottles of rad cleaner and use per instructions and flush and flush and drive then flush....... BUT if the core is blocked the only fix is a radiator service or replacement. Roger
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